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As you've found, there are several different stripe packages.

72 would be a 318 or a 340. No 360 in a 72 A body. 360 A body started in 74. Only 340 cars got call out graphics in 72.

Your thread title says "72"... ...but your first post says "73".

Yes, leaves and pine needles get in the hood and trunk gutters. ...and stay wet.

Also, it sure doesn't help that the are of the quarter panel as well as the rocker panel where it joins (and the quarter to wheel house area), rarely get any finish coat (think "seal") of paint, just absorbent primer. That is almost as good as sign that says "rust here".

The first time I noticed the phenomena listed in the thread title was in the mid 1980's. I noticed that 66/67 B body cars, as well as 70-72 mone carlo and 71/72 torino didn't rust out nearly as bad as 68-70 Mopar B bodies and both earlier and later fomoco and gm intermediates. I started my...

Coastal and FL cars rust from the top down as the salt is in the rain. Not unusual at all to see drip rails and fender tops rusted out down here. It's WAY worse on vinyl top cars, and I can't stress that enough...WAY worse. Certain body styles and years rust differently. What I've found on...

FJ6 was available in 1970 and 1971. "F" indicates the formula was originally used in 1970. If the first letter changed, then the formula changed. EB5, GB5 and KB5 are good examples of this. All different. OP should get a shop to color match with their camera. That works GREAT and accounts...

Aren't the fenders different, too? Regarding the space and angle between the upper and lower arms of the "V".

Yes- if you file the top pin down- A- you have ruined that pin. B- the bottom pin will still be sticking up past the shear area where the tumbler rotates, causing it to NOT rotate.

If you have several donor tumblers, you should not need to be filing anything. Tip # (what are we on now?)- Decide what lubricant you will use...and stay with it. WD-40 or similar is easy and everyone has it but... "Real" locksmiths use graphite. Graphite lasts much longer although it used...

The chrome on the repro's will probably pit and tannish in about 3-5 years, even if garage kept. At that pint they will look worse than the OEM units that have been on the car for 50 plus years, even stored outdoors. With that amount of spare parts, you should be able to easily get a couple of...

Good point. Reinforces my "use all the pins you can get to work" statement.

Any correct, Mopar key, even a blank.

You can almost always get three out of the five pins to work using only the pins that come from the existing cylinders. Sometimes you get lucky and can get four. The trunk cylinder might come in to play for extra pins. You still might be able to put that back with one or two pin sets. That...

Once the OP gets his hands in it he will see how easy it is.

Search FABO and FBBO. There's been a lot of info shared. Bottom line- they are EASY to DIY.

From a couple of those pics....is it upside down? The gap looks like it would conform better the other way. If you are imbedding magnets into the deck lid.....why not just bolt the spoiler on?

I'll add- Try a trunk key from another car. There's something like a 1 in 400 chance. Even better odds if the lock is loose or the key is. Vintage Mopar is the fewest possible combinations of the big three.

IIRC only the six cyl 5th Aves came with 7.25. It's the "second best" axle swap for an A after the 65-67 B body 8.75.

I still see a 5th Ave at a u pull every couple of years. I've never seen one without a remote trunk release. ...and three 15x7 steel wheels. ...and a sanden compressor with small block bracket. ...and cruise control. ...and an A body width 8.25 axle.

Might be nice to show a pic of a specific part number. I've been buying blades at thrift stores. In the past 1.5 years, I've scored three sets (pairs) of old school 15 and 16" refils and a ton of 18-22" modern assemblies. All in the $2-$5 range. Also just put $5 thrift 26" on my wife's car. I'm...

When was the last time anyone did that? Sometime around the early 00's, they completely changed the way "refils" work. The new ones are thinner and won't work in the old style blade holders. They are also three pieces, with the metal supports seperate and a royal PITA to asemble.

Needs to be a relatively flat (can have a gentle curve, like a body panel) area about 5-6 inches. I believe I used the underside of the hood.

Do you have anything to paint match to? That's what I did and it was 100% spot on.

Go look at Jo-Ann fabrics. Seriously.

Is it all one piece? I'd try cutting the pivot pin off flush, drilling through the center of where it was, then fitting a new steel pin, drilled through the center to accept a machine screw from the other side of the handle. ...if you can't find a used one.

For a while I was infatuated with cars that had blue tail stripes. You see red ones a lot, but hardly ever blue or green.

Mine looked like post #7. It went on better than I thought it would. Actually ended up pretty even and centered, and flush. I used self tapping, 5/16 head fasteners with captive rubber washers.....carefully. The rubber provides a seal and also gives some leeway when tightening.

Door sticker? Is 930 the SPD? September 30 72? That's a pretty early 73 then.