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Find some aftermarket 3" studs and have them machined to the length you need. In most cases, the 3" & 4" studs are grade 8 material and will outlast OEM stuff.

@el5dart, don't feel left out when you saw them lifting your vehicle on the pinch welds. I was at Discount Tire not once, but twice with my Caravan and they lifted it with 4 floor jacks on the pinch welds. The first time I didn't catch, but the second time I did and noticed that the welds were...

Keep in mind that radial tires when flexing have a sawing action on the "plug". This can result in the tire spitting the plug out, or air seeping between the plies and causing a separation. I only use plugs as a temporary fix and as soon as I can, I have the tire repaired with a patch. Our cars...

If you are going to run the wheels on a street car, go buy some stainless bolts. Put them on the holes and grind the flat, from there mix up some two part epoxy and put it over the ground area. When you are on the street, you'll be one of the cool guys running race parts on the street.

Be careful of the Chineseum wheel adapters, you will end up chasing a tire and wheel down the street. You might go to one of the wheel purveyors and get a set of after market 15" wheels with the 5x4" bolt circle.

@toolmanmike , that is what I was referring to. I expanded the pictures and came to the conclusion that I posted above.

The wheels with the Hankook tires are unilug 5 on 4 1/2 or 5 on 4 3/4, the other wheels are the 5 on 4 3/4 GM pattern only.

I have a friend that has a set of their 15" wheels with the 4" bolt circle and they are great. He bought them because the original 14" wheels were too close to the front brake calipers.

No matter what brand or size tire you buy, there is a chance they are manufactured overseas. When you buy, ask for the country of origin of the tires before purchasing. Quality standards seem to slip through the cracks in overseas manufacturers, in my opinion.

Yep, SBP 5x4" BC.

Look at the wheels on the Expedition used by the police, most of the offset is to the inside.

I have a set of 245/45 x 20 Kumho tires on the wife's 300S. They wear well and handle well for a lesser price than some of the name brands.

I think years ago, Hot Rod or PHR did an article about the donut spare wheels from an 80s or so T bird. They were supposedly 15 x 4 with a 4 1/2" pattern. I could be wrong, my memory ain't what it used to be. LOL

The website is still up and active, give them a call.

If it's the guy out of Burlington KS, I stopped at his place about 5 years back. He and his people were pretty knowledgeable and friendly. I was given a tour of the shop and yard, and was overall treated very well.

Use your search engine to find companies that straighten wheels. Stockton used to work on them. I sent a Centerline to them years back because I couldn't find a replacement at the time. The wheel came back as good as new.

One my street cars I ran a 185/80 15, I believe they were made for Volvos. I found that the 185 had better street manners than the 165 on wet roads.

I haven't seen any 13" trim rings in quite a while, I'm sure there are some out there. But who knows what kind of price tag they come with.

Check the rule book for the sanctioning body at the track, or check with the tech people at the track. I run long studs on my car because I've see what can happen.

The 10 hole wheels are for 5 x 4 1/2" BC and 5 x 4 3/4" BC. They WILL NOT fit the standard A body 5 x 4" BC.

Look into a 205-70x14 or something close, your tire distributor should be able to get you close to what your are looking for.

As stated, unilug wheels are for 5x4 1/2 or 5x4 3/4. I think Rocket made a unilug wheel that fit 5x4 and 5x4 1/2, but that was probably 40 to 50 years ago. The trick to the unilug wahers is to cinch them up finger tight, making sure the washer in in the inset. Don't let the tire monkeys take...

Before I jumped off & bought wheels & tires, I'd jack the car up, take the current wheels & tires off, put it on jack stands under the rear axle & lower control arms . From there, I'd start measuring for back spacing, front spacing & over all width. Most of the tire manufacturers have the specs...

My question is, "Who created the rats nest wiring?". That would be the first thing I would address.

Buying aftermarket aluminum wheels is a crap shoot. Just remember, "You get what you pay for". I've run aftermarket wheels for decades, but there were purchased from reputable dealers & were brand name wheels. What all of the manufacturers moving overseas, there is is little of no quality...

That's just it, no one knows what your "grand plan" is because you haven't provided enough information. What will the car be used for, a cruiser, a stop light bandit, a daily driver, a combo street & drag car? The list is endless, we have no idea what shocks, what torsion bars , what size...

The center cap for the SBP Keystone wheels usually have SHK-4 in raised characters on the inside, at least the originals did.

They were produced in 14", no 15" for SBP. I had 6", 8" & 10" years ago. The 8" & 10" didn't fit the Darts & Valiants because of the offset.

Leanna knows of what she speaks, she gave some advice to a coater that I used close to home. Unfortunately, Covid ended up shutting them down so now I'm searching for another coater in my area.

Wires were also available in 68, I have a set of the wire hub caps from my 68 Formula S 340 Barracuda.