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scrap is what that is.

i'd put it in now and work all the kinks out. then when you go to swap the 340 it'll go a lot smoother.

if you like fast revving and instant throttle response, then an aluminum flywheel will certainly provide that. it'll also have you shifting all.the.damn.time if you drive in traffic. my maximum influence 324ci was pushing 400hp and had a light flywheel backed up with a 3.09 1st and 3.55's...

i'll take the under on the clutch hub and the over on an input or 1st gear

those photos are specifically from a 65 dart

that was a working MT car. the ball stud bracket is removed from the inner fenderwell for the photos.

$1500 plus to start for a pile of parts

a 230 3speed maybe. 833 is unlikely, but anything can happen. the passon 5spd no way jose. besides the transmission there's a whole laundry list of other components that you're going to need. some available new, some refurbished/rebuilt, some you'll have to hunt around for. all of it is expensive.

under the adapter. it'll be cast in a pocket between the webs

my sentiments exactly. the voodoo science juice box to elbow wear-er out-er cog box swap is tricky enough as it is, why complicate matters further for no gains what so ever and a whole *** boat load of frustration.

use the 360 and find a 833. the 435 is a *terrible* fit in every possible way for a small block light weight a body.

the bolt must also be shouldered to fit the pressure plate holes. standard threaded aren't close enough tolerance and will cause vibration or shear off. fwiw, the bolts i'm running aren't socket head, they're hex head cap screw like 3/8 head.

i currently run this on my 65 dart https://www.summitracing.com/parts/zzz-mu1525-1/make/dodge/year/1965 zero issues on install, works great.

trans decodes as march of 68 but that vin is suspect!

this fits the stock bell and flywheel. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/zzz-mu1525-1/make/dodge/year/1965 ETA: i've also run the LUK and Sachs kits i think the number is 5004

i ran a lightweight aluminum wheel from 10,000 rpm behind my 318 in the 64 and 65 darts. commando box (3.09 1st) and 3.55's out back. absolutely wonderful on the road course and auto-x. a real chore to drive on the street. with a race style on/off clutch it was nearly undriveable in traffic...

the whole driveshaft catapult has been disproven. catastrophic damages, yes. yeeting a car to the week next, no. big u-joints and DS loop is always a good idea.

a picture would be a tremendous help here

fwiw, we were discussing this in another thread not too long ago and the consensus was that there wasn't an official service limit spec. mine looked about like that and i sent it out for a cut. snapped back together with the zoom clutch and it's nice and smooth.

bro, the speedo gear, housing and retaining clip! that's gold baby! and the wrecking bar? there's some value there too!

nah, that's about right for current prices around here. i just pulled a complete OD box and it was a hair under $400 so if you add in a shifter and linkage you'd be clicking right at 5 but pickin's is slim at the yard and it's more about luck on those than anything else. the chances of finding...

there's a lot to unpack here... the "easiest" swap is all stock. everything fits like it's supposed to, all the parts are out there, there's a FSM to guide you, lots of people have 'em and can answer questions if you get stumped. however you'll need to go track down all the bits to make that...

straying from the stock mount and using/modifying a 67 and up style piece takes a hard turn into modifying and customizing everything else in the whole apparatus. the z, the push rod, the bell mount, all that jazz. which you then start veering into no-mans land. getting a 4spd into the early...

all goofing aside, i just grabbed the box and it is indeed the MU1525-1 kit. to note: i know this fits the 9.5" large register /6 and V8 wheel, i do not have a early small register unit to compare it against but i imagine that it is the same.

i ain't been to the submarine races in a month of sundays and when i showed her my clutch all she said was: i thought it was bigger! it was! i just wore it out slipping it and jamming gears all alone the last six months!

i mean, that's what i tell the war department!

it works with the 9.5" wheel, the PP is scalloped enough and the disc isn't technically 10" i just bolted one together last week, so it's pretty fresh in my mind. i'll double check the PN on the box though.

here's the clutch a lot of us run https://www.summitracing.com/parts/zzz-mu1525-1/make/dodge/year/1965 it's more than adequate for moderate HP applications and if you're not drag racing. i wouldn't worry about it exploding with a cast iron bell, that should contain it. besides, you'll...

if you need large register (post 67), i've got whatchu need. i'll dig it out and get you a pic and PN-- just got back from the swapmeet over the weekend and haven't unloaded yet

yes. but your Z bar is 180* from where it should be