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Start with the basics, are the plugs the correct heat range and gapped properly, check the initial and total timing, vacuum gauge to check carburetor mixture screw adjustment.

I'm with LJ67, I have the sandwich silicone gaskets and my covers are off and on frequently to check valve adjustment. I've had the same gaskets for over 10 years.

If nothing else, grab the 67 manifolds. They are worth bucks these days, depending on which body they are for (B or C).

X2 on the rockers arms!

Not beat the OP, but the BFH should be reserved for other things. Just making light of the situation, not trying to rag on anyone.

The guides were machined correctly for the seals and we added the correct springs, keepers and retainers. Other than freshening up the heads over the years, the seals have done their job @pittsburghracer can probably put his suggestion.

OMM knows of what he speaks, I too have had the same problem on my SBM heads. My machinist fixed the problem that I should have had corrected before I assembled the heads.

If you are unsure of the piston deck height, get an inexpensive bore scope (Harbor Freight) and take a look with a piston at the top of the bore.

If the car only sees the strip occasionally, I don't think you will notice the loss. I thought you might be planning a race only setup.

If you are going to run a 4500 dominator style carburetor, it might be better to get the 4500 intake. You maybe leaving HP on the table with the 4150 intake.

Look on the under side of the piston to see if there is a number, If so, post that number in a "Wanted" ad on the site. There is no telling if someone may have a spare floating around. Personally, I'm with RRR. I wouldn't take a chance because cast pistons can have tiny fractures and with come...

You can build all of the HP you want, but without the proper gearing, clutch set up and so forth it my be a total pooch. Just my .02.

Hot soapy water and bottle brushes to clean galleys, the carburetor or brake cleaner and plenty of WD40. How bad are the crank journals, will they polish out?

Look into a decent priced SFI rated balancer. Someone here in FABOland probably has one, put up a "Wanted" ad.

I'm sorry to tell all you guys and gals, but Wix sold out and are made in Thailand now.

OP needs to start with the basics to eliminate what he can from the outside before tearing into the engine.

20* initial timing?

What is your basis tune up? More information would be helpful.

Who runs the M code registry for Darts?

What RRR said!

Look at "440source" to see if they might have a match.

Personally, I wouldn't cut up the sheet metal hood. I would save up the money and put a fiber glass hood on it. That way if you decide to take the tunnel ram off, you have the sheet metal hood to put back on.

If it's street car, you won't notice the HP loss. Running the manifolds versus headers would be my choice because unless you buy the TTI headers, you will be "clearancing" them as you mentioned.

What engine was in the car originally?

The elephant ears are bent because of the ping pong action of the engine during acceleration and deceleration. In other words, the back and forth movement. I have a limiter on each side of my engine which has a motor plate to stop this. There was a post on here about this action, I just can't...

You can't fault yourself, you took someones word that everything was correct. But then again, I leave nothing to chance on my end. I go over everything with a fine toothed comb to try and make sure all is correct.

Unfortunately, I no longer run BBMs, I've switched over to stroked SBMs in my bracket car. I'm sure someone here has the correct measurement for the push rod. You might want to ask the question in the "General" section.

Have you checked to make sure the fuel pump push rod is the correct length and that the lobe on the cam isn't worn down? I've run BBMs in every body type and never had the problem with mechanical fuel pumps that you are having.

When installing the bars, the adjusters should be about as equal as you can get them by eye. Be sure the lower arms are as far down as possible when installing the bars. With the BBM in it I would run the adjusters as far down as I could, this would allow more adjustment once installed. I forget...

How did you install the torsion bars and where were the adjuster bolts set when installed?