mopowers
Well-Known Member
Excellent progress! Did you apply the 3m adhesive on both sides (trunk gutter and seal), or just one of the surfaces?
65 Barracuda daily driver
- Thread starter 65barracudaLA
- Start date
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65barracudaLA
Well-Known Member
Both - then wait until tacky and then add a bit more to one of the surfaces. Here's a link to the instructions I found: How to Glue Weatherstrip the Right Way
65barracudaLA
Well-Known Member
Over the weekend my band was playing the Lightning In A Bottle Festival and it was once again a great road test for the Barracuda. 100+ miles each way, which is the longest trip with the new engine yet. Made it through the infamous Grapevine without overheating. Car got a bit warm idling in line to get into the festival, but it wasn't that bad. I added some Water Wetter to the coolant before I left. On the bottle it said that if you run just water without coolant it would run cooler? And even cooler with Water Wetter and water. Never knew that. I might just run water until winter then?! Other than that it used a bit of oil, which is interesting because it doesn't smoke at all. I'll keep an eye on that.
The car ran comfortably 70mph and got a bit shaky around 80, which is not bad considering that I haven't gotten it aligned since swapping from the slant to the small block.
Just got back yesterday, but tomorrow we're going camping at the beach and I plan on sleeping in the car. Tested it and this air mattress fits almost perfectly in there. It's a little high, so there's not much room for ankles, but it works. I could consider taking off the chrome bar and pull it further to the front.
The car ran comfortably 70mph and got a bit shaky around 80, which is not bad considering that I haven't gotten it aligned since swapping from the slant to the small block.
Just got back yesterday, but tomorrow we're going camping at the beach and I plan on sleeping in the car. Tested it and this air mattress fits almost perfectly in there. It's a little high, so there's not much room for ankles, but it works. I could consider taking off the chrome bar and pull it further to the front.
mygasser
Well-Known Member
i wouldn't use just water. coolant/antifreeze has corrosion inhibitors. if you've ever seen an internally furred up ally intake etc you'll know plain water's not good.
neil.
neil.
65barracudaLA
Well-Known Member
Barracuda beach camping in the books! Pretty much no issues. I've been watching the gas mileage over these last few trips. I got up to 15.2 mpg (highway), but at some point I retarded the timing a bit because of pinging under load and the gas mileage went down again. I'm gonna have to check timing chain, maybe consider a colder plug (currently Champion 405) and richer jets?! I'm also planning on getting that FBO limiter plate and springs for the distributor.
JDMopar
Well-Known Member
That's bound to have been fun! How was sleeping in the car? I've wondered if it would be hard to do on a road trip. I'm 6' and 225, so I'd probably get tired of it pretty quick at my age...lol.
65barracudaLA
Well-Known Member
It was super fun, but sleeping on the air mattress wasn't optimal. It's too high, so there's little room for your feet/ ankles and getting in and out is not that easy. I either want to find a thinner air mattress or make a mattress out of dense foam.
Too bad you can't buy these anymore:
$47.75 in 1965 sounds pretty steep though. Just looked it up and that'd be 470ish bucks in today's money!!
mygasser
Well-Known Member
what about one of those memory foam mattress 'topper' things. they say they're good to use direct on the floor so should be ideal.
neil.
neil.
65barracudaLA
Well-Known Member
I was thinking about using something like that. The only issue is that there's a drop in the floor right where your hip is. I might make a plywood base so it's all level. (very old photo)
65barracudaLA
Well-Known Member
So it looks like my timing chain is bad. Below is the only photo I took when I had the engine "apart". Back I didn't notice significant slack, so I just left it like it was. Anyways, there was some fluctuation on the timing light and when adjusting the idle mixture with a vacuum gauge. So today I popped off the distributor cap and turned the crank back and forth and watched the rotor. There's 10+ degrees of slack before the rotor moves. So I guess it's time for a new one.
One thing I noticed in the photo is that that little oil drip tab appears to be missing - even though hard to tell from this angle. Some folks here on FABO seem to think that they're not necessary, but it might have actually extended the life of this chain. Too bad I didn't replace the timing chain when I had the oil pan off replacing the oil pump. I've been looking at the Cloyes C3028 double roller timing set - any thoughts on that one?
I also still had a pretty bad ATF leak which seemed to come from the neutral safety switch. I had already replaced that weird washer gasket. I almost feel like an O-ring would work better.
I took the switch out and the were some remnants of the the old washer. By the way that new washer was pretty much destroyed when it came out.
After cleaning the hole as good as possible (with the exhaust in place it's not easy to reach) I got rid of it.
The new old switch was almost 70 bucks, but totally worth it if it actually stopped the leak.
One thing I noticed in the photo is that that little oil drip tab appears to be missing - even though hard to tell from this angle. Some folks here on FABO seem to think that they're not necessary, but it might have actually extended the life of this chain. Too bad I didn't replace the timing chain when I had the oil pan off replacing the oil pump. I've been looking at the Cloyes C3028 double roller timing set - any thoughts on that one?
I also still had a pretty bad ATF leak which seemed to come from the neutral safety switch. I had already replaced that weird washer gasket. I almost feel like an O-ring would work better.
I took the switch out and the were some remnants of the the old washer. By the way that new washer was pretty much destroyed when it came out.
After cleaning the hole as good as possible (with the exhaust in place it's not easy to reach) I got rid of it.
The new old switch was almost 70 bucks, but totally worth it if it actually stopped the leak.
JDMopar
Well-Known Member
The Cloyes chain set is pretty good. I've had excellent luck from Edelbrock chains for years. Rock Auto has a hardware package with the drip tab in it, along with some other usable stuff.
More Information for ENGINETECH HK108
More Information for ENGINETECH HK108
65barracudaLA
Well-Known Member
I certainly don't want to have do again, so I should probably just get the Edelbrock chain. Thanks for the tip for the Enginetech hardware kit. Obviously it's not great that the timing chain is bad, but it sounds like it might have been the culprit for the engine idling kinda rough and pinging etc, so I'm glad I checked. After replacing the timing chain in the old slant 6 it made the engine run so much better (in the same car)!
Photos from the archives. Cleaning it up and giving the engine a coat of paint probably also helped. Sometimes I miss tha engine... It's for sale again on FB Marketplace for 1,500 bucks... I sold it to the guy for like 300 bucks including the super 6 intake...
JDMopar
Well-Known Member
You might be able to find that hardware kit elsewhere for about the same price, but it's like $15 on Rock Auto. If you search for it on Rock Auto, pick a 1970 model Mopar with a 318. The kit doesn't show up if you pick a 340 motor. 
65barracudaLA
Well-Known Member
Your link took me right to the hardware kit, I bought it and apparently it was the last one they had! Cheaper than anywhere else including tax and shipping. Also ordered the Edelbrock chain and the gaskets, so I hope I'll get to it next weekend.
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