Anyone got pics of their transmission mount?

-

jrlegacy23

68 Barracuda
Joined
Jun 27, 2006
Messages
2,627
Reaction score
337
Location
Laurens, NY
I am building the crossmember from subframe connector to subframe connector in my 1970 Dart with a 5.7 hemi, 545rfe trans. Everything is lining up perfectly and I am using a polyurethane transmission mount. My question is, are you guys using the three mounting points from the original transmission mounts (red arrows and yellow) or just the front two trans mount holes (red arrows). The factory mounted all 3. I am not sure if that would be overkill, or if it supports the tail shaft and needs the support.
Anyone got thoughts on this and/or pictures of your tranny cross members?

trans.jpg
 
I am building the crossmember from subframe connector to subframe connector in my 1970 Dart with a 5.7 hemi, 545rfe trans. Everything is lining up perfectly and I am using a polyurethane transmission mount. My question is, are you guys using the three mounting points from the original transmission mounts (red arrows and yellow) or just the front two trans mount holes (red arrows). The factory mounted all 3. I am not sure if that would be overkill, or if it supports the tail shaft and needs the support.
Anyone got thoughts on this and/or pictures of your tranny cross members?

View attachment 1714941918
 
This is what I made up to take the place of the old cross member. I had the rubber mount in my shop not sure where to get another one. I use 1X2 or 1X2.5 (it fits tight into the original cross member) rectangle tubing to go over the trans to help tie the cross member back together with a notch out of it for the trans wiring plug in that area and it will be welded in place. it will also support the new trans tunnel. Then I use some channel of the correct size and some round 1.25 tubing to fab the lower cross member to support the tailstock at the two holes near the pan and it bolts in to the original cross member bolt holes. I also made a channel support for the rubber mount for torsional support under load, I did not use the rear hole that you have marked in yellow as I feel I have enough support and it is busy enough to route the exhaust with out a second cross member for the trans. Hope this helps

IMG_2793.JPG


IMG_2804.JPG


IMG_2810.JPG


IMG_2811.JPG


IMG_2798.JPG


IMG_2799.JPG
 
Last edited:
I just used the two standard holes like the 904 used and my original spool type trans mount with a modified crossmember. (no good pic though)
I did have to spread the mount about an inch or so at the top where it contacts the trans.
Also, those tailshafts are a ton stronger than the 904 or 727 because of all the ribs.

The 727 is in the center and looks like a twig compared to the OD's.

Mopar_Automatic_A518_727_904.jpg
 
Thanks guys, I am on a similar path. My friend has a new trans mount for his 71 Nova SS that I think will work perfect to go from the trans to the crossmember. I will post pics of how I started mine.
 
I'm going to make mine so it mounts to the subframe connectors also. I think I'm gonna use 1/4" thick flat bar to tie the top of the old torsion bar cross member back together, so the trans tunnel doesn't end up so big. I'm just going to use the 2 holes, and not worry about the one towards the rear. A 545RFE makes an 833 seem like picking up a paper clip! lol
 
I'm going to make mine so it mounts to the subframe connectors also. I think I'm gonna use 1/4" thick flat bar to tie the top of the old torsion bar cross member back together, so the trans tunnel doesn't end up so big. I'm just going to use the 2 holes, and not worry about the one towards the rear. A 545RFE makes an 833 seem like picking up a paper clip! lol

I also cut off all that extra crap off the trans with a 4" metal cutting wheel and sand disc smoothed them down.
You have to leave that top left one and the one threaded post if you plan on using the column style linkage.

Mopar_Automatic_A518_727_904.jpg
 
Yep, I'll hack em if they get in the way. I'm going to use column shift, so I will leave the ones for that. What did you do for a dip stick tube? Getting off topic here, but hopefully the info will help others! :)
 
Well, I ended up figuring something out. I used an Energy suspensions polyurethane mount from a 1970 Chevy Nova with a 350 auto. I had to hone the holes out about 1/8" closer together to mount to the transmission. Then built the cross member with 1x2" and some 1/4" plate. I need to put a small spacer between the cross member and the subframe connectors, but shouldn't be an issue. I still need to drill and tap the holes on the subframe connectors as well. Everything is straight, just looks a little crooked because the angle of the picture:

trans mount.jpg


crossmember.jpg
 
Yep, I'll hack em if they get in the way. I'm going to use column shift, so I will leave the ones for that. What did you do for a dip stick tube? Getting off topic here, but hopefully the info will help others! :)

I used the one that was originally on my 904 after checking for the same fluid depth.
I should have known they would be the same since the 904 and the 42RH are the same basic case but with a deeper pan, but I had to verify it.
 
I measured 2 1/2" of space above, so I gotta either run underneath or come up with something a little ore creative... I think I have an idea.
 
Here's what I did.

DSC_0203~0.jpg


Riddler

Yep, that's what I kinda have pictured in my mind, but with round tubing. A friend of mine builds NASCAR roundy round trucks, and said he could bend me one if I make him a pattern. He's got all kinds of thick wall pipe that he makes the roll bars and stuff out of.
 
I used the one that was originally on my 904 after checking for the same fluid depth.
I should have known they would be the same since the 904 and the 42RH are the same basic case but with a deeper pan, but I had to verify it.

DOH!! Dummy me got it in my head you were using a 545RFE. Back to the drawing board! LOL. Thanks anyway.:)
 
It would help, but I ended up making the crossmember go up and across, and back down to the subframe connectors. Then drilled holes in the connectors and welded nuts to the bottom. Very happy with the out come. I will get some pics taken
 
-
Back
Top