Does anyone know what the bolt that runs between the intake and exhaust manifold is called or have a part number for it? I shattered mine in the exhaust manifold threads while taking the head and intake manifold off and can’t seem to find a replacement.
Help finding part
- Thread starter Rustmaan
- Start date
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Pictures.
If you're talking about the larger inboard bolt, it's not a bolt from the factory. It's a stud. If I'm not mistaken, Chrysler used 3/8" on some and 7/16" on others. Our buddy @slantsixdan might enlighten us, as I am actually not 100% sure. I tagged him, so maybe he will chime in.
slantsixdan
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It's a bolt from '60 until sometime around '72 or '73, then it's a stud from then on up, p/n 152 568, as offered here. If I recall correctly, the stud is larger diameter and thread than the bolt; on occasion when using later exhaust manifold with earlier intake I had to overbore that bolt hole in the intake.
Okay so anything extra required when using a later intake manifold and the factory exhaust manifold, it’s a 72 demon but I got a super six intake off a 79 if I rember correctly
I have my exhaust manifold from the original engine 1972, and a 2 barrel intake I bought from a later model
Thanks Dan! I knew you'd set us straight. Moochas grassy ***. lol
What size thread does your exhaust manifold have? I believe some had 5/16-18 coarse thread and the others were 3/8-16. Don't think they were fine thread but could have been.
It's been a while. Easy enough to check. I think even if you have the small threaded exhaust and an intake with a fat hole you can just use a washer under the nut.
Or if your exhaust is the bigger thread and the intake is the smaller hole the intake can be drilled/reamed out for the fatter stud. Plenty of thickness there.
Just whatever you do DON'T do like the PO of my truck did... They snapped the stud and drilled from the bottom of the exhaust manifold to try to get to.... Actually they did get to it and thru it, and put a bolt up from the bottom thru both manifolds with a nut on top.
Luckily they didn't get this conglomeration reassembled to the engine, I went to the junkyard and got another exhaust manifold and started that part of the project over... .just to see if that engine would run. If you do have the exhaust manifold rethreaded for the 3/8 stud remember it's a blind hole.
When I put mine together I ordered #316 stainless fasteners from McMaster Carr.
There's a diesel shop nearby that has a laser doohickey that cuts out broken bolts without touching the parent part, I wound up taking my exhaust manifold to in order to have all the old stuff layered out. All 5 bolts on this manifold were busted. Now that I'm thinking about it there were 3 sizes on these manifolds. The 2 outer bolts that hold them together are 5/16 thread. The stud you were talking about is 3/8" and the 2 that hold the exhaust pipe flange to the manifold are 7/16". These are thread sizes not wrench head sizes.
Prices may vary for this, but I feel like I overpaid, but I already had a bunch of time in that exhaust manifold in porting, matching the outlet size to the most commonly available flange gasket, I didn't want to throw "my" work away.
This was a different one than the one I got from the junkyard for the original engine.
The owner of the shop (is the only one that operates that laser machine) and is a buddy of mine, but I made the mistake of handing it off to the grandson who is a gold digger.... When I had the same job done on my sons truck they were much more reasonable.... Somehow I think it got "made up for and then some" when they have to do the exact same job for ""dear old Dad ".... But that's a story for another day.
It's been a while. Easy enough to check. I think even if you have the small threaded exhaust and an intake with a fat hole you can just use a washer under the nut.
Or if your exhaust is the bigger thread and the intake is the smaller hole the intake can be drilled/reamed out for the fatter stud. Plenty of thickness there.
Just whatever you do DON'T do like the PO of my truck did... They snapped the stud and drilled from the bottom of the exhaust manifold to try to get to.... Actually they did get to it and thru it, and put a bolt up from the bottom thru both manifolds with a nut on top.
Luckily they didn't get this conglomeration reassembled to the engine, I went to the junkyard and got another exhaust manifold and started that part of the project over... .just to see if that engine would run. If you do have the exhaust manifold rethreaded for the 3/8 stud remember it's a blind hole.
When I put mine together I ordered #316 stainless fasteners from McMaster Carr.
There's a diesel shop nearby that has a laser doohickey that cuts out broken bolts without touching the parent part, I wound up taking my exhaust manifold to in order to have all the old stuff layered out. All 5 bolts on this manifold were busted. Now that I'm thinking about it there were 3 sizes on these manifolds. The 2 outer bolts that hold them together are 5/16 thread. The stud you were talking about is 3/8" and the 2 that hold the exhaust pipe flange to the manifold are 7/16". These are thread sizes not wrench head sizes.
Prices may vary for this, but I feel like I overpaid, but I already had a bunch of time in that exhaust manifold in porting, matching the outlet size to the most commonly available flange gasket, I didn't want to throw "my" work away.
This was a different one than the one I got from the junkyard for the original engine.
The owner of the shop (is the only one that operates that laser machine) and is a buddy of mine, but I made the mistake of handing it off to the grandson who is a gold digger.... When I had the same job done on my sons truck they were much more reasonable.... Somehow I think it got "made up for and then some" when they have to do the exact same job for ""dear old Dad ".... But that's a story for another day.
slantsixdan
=..=
You're setting yourself up for aggravation if you use a '70-'72 exhaust manifold. Its open-stove choke setup is a pain even with factory parts (leak-prone gasket no longer available; homemade solutions leak worse). That's on top of the other issues with old exhaust manifolds (warp, crack, busted heat valve, etc). Do yourself a favour and get a carefully-chosen new exhaust manifold. Manifold stud & nut info in this thread. Also, it is very much worth your while to get the good gaskets for the manifolds-to-head and intake-to-exhaust junctions. Then save yourself a bunch more aggro and get a № 1232 electric choke kit—works way better than the factory 2bbl choke thermostat, and it's adjustable (the factory item isn't).
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