Just Sharing - MegaSquirt Hemi w/Traction Control

-

GoodysGotaCuda

Mr. Goody
Joined
Feb 18, 2006
Messages
1,740
Reaction score
54
Location
DFW, Texas
One of the best parts about going to a MegaSquirt ECU is the amount of customization you can do. It would be a bit cumbersome if you only used it for spark and fuel.

To get the most out of it, I am using the VR output shaft sensor on my T56 Magnum transmission along with a Hall Effect undriven wheel speed sensor that I fabbed a mount up for. It reads the internal cooling vanes of the rotor, 32T/rev.

cW6pWT6.jpg

rbCtbqU.jpg

4l2POYl.jpg




The setup only has a 100 miles or so on it but the results have been more than entertaining! The car will sense the amount of slip and react to a target difference, in this case I am using 3%, which is a bit low, but I am getting the hang of things.

The car drives completely different and it is much more managable to put power down on the street. My tires are a bit old and 1st and 2nd gear wouldn't be very useful under 35-45mph..I'd just blow the tires off of it without heavy peddling to keep it moving forward....as shown....

The car is also using the no-lift-shift/flatshift strategy [video is without traction control]



With the traction control, timing is pulled to try to manage minimal tirespin and maximum acceleration. This isn't a perfect example, but you can see the rear wheel speed [VSS1] go up and down and it keeps the car going forward...and straight. It's hard to say how much quicker it makes the car around town, but it is nice to be able to get on it and let the car go as fast as it can manage.

BykV8X7.png



Anyway, I am just sharing my results. If anyone has questions, feel free to ask. I am still working on tuning it, but I can provide some support.
 
Don't be afraid to post more. I barely understand most of this although I've played some with EFI and will continue to do so "if I live long enough" LOL
 
So you are comparing the speed of the front right wheel to the output shaft of the transmission and it works. This is very clever and you may be the first to have come up with this.
 
So you are comparing the speed of the front right wheel to the output shaft of the transmission and it works. This is very clever and you may be the first to have come up with this.

That's correct. I don't think I am the first, perhaps on a 1972 Yellow 'Cuda, but it has been done.
:steering::thumbsup:
 
So you are comparing the speed of the front right wheel to the output shaft of the transmission and it works. This is very clever and you may be the first to have come up with this.

Might not work so good, LOL if you have a car that can get the wheels up!!
 
interesting setup using the rotor vanes as a trigger. Wouldn't have thought of that. Guess it kind of locks you into your rotor choice, but may be easy enough to adjust down the road if you had to.
 
interesting setup using the rotor vanes as a trigger. Wouldn't have thought of that. Guess it kind of locks you into your rotor choice, but may be easy enough to adjust down the road if you had to.

Don’t think that will be an issue unless wilwood stops making this rotor. Which is used in several kits.

D3C78258-FBC5-4E60-A180-A0D75FE47C82.jpeg
 
smart. i have seen this done with hondas using the abs sensor on the rear wheels. i like the idea of using the vanes one the front for our cars.
 
The setup only has a 100 miles or so on it but the results have been more than entertaining! The car will sense the amount of slip and react to a target difference, in this case I am using 3%, which is a bit low, but I am getting the hang of things.

The car drives completely different and it is much more managable to put power down on the street. My tires are a bit old and 1st and 2nd gear wouldn't be very useful under 35-45mph..I'd just blow the tires off of it without heavy peddling to keep it moving forward....as shown....


With the traction control, timing is pulled to try to manage minimal tirespin and maximum acceleration. This isn't a perfect example, but you can see the rear wheel speed [VSS1] go up and down and it keeps the car going forward...and straight. It's hard to say how much quicker it makes the car around town, but it is nice to be able to get on it and let the car go as fast as it can manage.


Anyway, I am just sharing my results. If anyone has questions, feel free to ask. I am still working on tuning it, but I can provide some support.

I know this is a bit of an old thread, but I just got the MS3X setup in my Dart up and running and got a front VSS installed over the weekend, so I'm just getting around to playing with mine. As it stands my DOT slicks and current tune don't really put me in too much wheelspin territory, though I'm guessing if I put street tires back on it I might see some again when provoked. That being said, what kind of power are you making with your car? I'm curious how you have your spark retard curve set up to manage the wheelspin. I finally found that setting today, but I don't really have any idea what values make sense. I know it's likely a bit of guess and check to see what works, but figured if there was a chance you had a similar setup that I might be able to learn from your settings.
 
I am using the VR output shaft sensor on my T56 Magnum transmission

How did you get the VR sensor to work? I've seen your posts on other forums about trying to swap the VR sensor for a Hall Effect one, seems you gave up and just converted the signal?

I am probably going to pull the trigger on a T56 Magnum kit in the next day or two and plan to use an Arduino card to feed a G3 PCM the vehicle speed over the CANBus network along with some cruise control instructions. The Arduino card doesn't appear to be able to accept the sine wave curve the VR sensory puts out so it has to be converted to a square wave. I've found several options, and a couple of fixes, but always curious how others have done it.

I know this is an old thread and it doesn't look like @GoodysGotaCuda has been back in a couple of years, but I figure maybe it is worth a try.
 
-
Back
Top