O/T adding tractor power steering

-
67Dart273

67Dart273

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 14, 2010
Messages
61,023
Reaction score
34,772
Location
Idaho
My little Farmall 100 (same as "Super A"), with the front loader (extra weight) BADLY needs PS, especially with my arthritis getting worse, and I'm simply getting older and weaker.

First problem is the "steering box" on these is part of a huge casting which ties the front of the engine, radiator, and front axle and loader mount all together. The box is part of a big casting, and cannot be removed.

I had bought hydraulic "torque booster" (Char-lynn or behlen) which is a device goes right in the column. BUT those units put more stress on the old box, and I'm afraid the "old box" isn't up to the task.

347007.jpg


So I've been thinking of possibilities

1 Conventional PS box, IE Mopar style. Hard to mount with the old box in the way, would entail brazing/ welding TO CAST IRON, not much room, difficult



2 Rack and pinion--would need steering shaft FAR to the right, many don't have enough travel, and may not be strong enough

3 "Orbital" valve and a steering cylinder--expensive as hell, unless I found a good used one -- if anyone knows where "dead wheat combine heaven" is..........

(The problem I THINK with orbital valves is that you have NO steering without engine power. If I ever needed to tow or coast the tractor a short distance this would be a problem)

productFDOMAPS601_fullsize.jpg


4 The old "drag link cylinder" used on older Chivvies (up to 63/64?) Chevy II's and Corvetts, some Mustangs/ Torinos and older Ford pickups

This has a control valve that hooks to the pitman arm, and a hydralic cylinder.

I THINK I COULD DO THAT, but

has anyone played with these? How adaptable are they? Seems to me some may have special flanged hookups that might be difficult to deal with. In other words, who knows what is adaptable?

Seems to me I would not HAVE to use an automotive cylinder, should be able to use a double acting hydraulic cylinder of proper stroke and bore??

This is what the 'Stang stuff looks like, I don't need the pump

65%20mustang%20kit.jpg


Chevy II valve:

102231.jpg


How it all hooks up, evidently a 70 'Stang

64-82.jpg


63-79 Corvette:

cec4_1.jpg


In the photo below, look just to the left of the chain which lifts the blade. You can see the exposed steering shaft/ column coming down to the big "bulb" that is the steering box. That casting is part of a large casting which can not be removed

sxgq5i.jpg
 
If the Super A is in decent shape, you might consider selling it and upgrading to a newer tractor with ps already on it. Don't know what the super A is worth, but around here you can sometimes find something like a IHC 300 for about $2500. A small Ford or JD of that same age, condition and hp might bring another 500-750.
Unless you just want the challenge...

Here is a link you might find helpful:
http://www.hotlineguides.com/
I think you can poke around on there without a subscription.
C
 
I've only got about 1100 US into the thing, don't really want to go through the hassle. I certainly don't want anything larger/ heavier. If I want to haul this thing somewhere, my trailer and Ranger will handle it.

It's got two hydraulic pumps, one off the front for the loader, and the other (which doesn't get used as yet) for the "fast hitch" or whatever it's called. So I could tap into either of those.

I don't really thing the "drag link cylinder" style would be all that much work.
 
A buddy of mine put some type of rack and pinion on his tractor and it worked great. Sadly he has passed away and the tractor is gone or I would get you the details.
 
Hang some weight off the back of the tractor, it will make the front end lighter and a little easier to steer.
 
daliant said:
Hang some weight off the back of the tractor, it will make the front end lighter and a little easier to steer.
Click to expand...

uh................and this is part of the reason I "think" the steering box is getting worn

iw11l5.jpg
 
Needs more weight hanging farther behind the rear axle to counter the weight of the plow, it would be easier than trying to adapt power steering to the machine. You can take the wheel weights off and add them to the ballast box if you dont want to make the tractor any heavier. Think of it like a see-saw where the rear wheels are the fulcrum and the plow is like a fat kid sitting all the way at the end and the weight box is a medium sized kid sitting up twards the fulcrum.
Your steering might also be getting harder from a dry kingpin or tie rod end.
 
daliant said:
Needs more weight hanging farther behind ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, steering might also be getting harder from a dry kingpin or tie rod end.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the thoughts, but this thing IS GOING to get PS, one way or the other. I've inspected the axle bearings and greased 'em.

I MAY have found, a local yard "thinks" he has the drag link / cylinder setup off an older Ford PU. I'm supposed to check back with him tomorrow. He said "about 100" for the whole mess, which will give me some extra "meat" to weld to, etc.

The other thing about the drag link style, is that it will RELIEVE some pressure off the box. Hell, I might even spring for a repop steering wheel off "th bay." --40 bucks or so.

Ya think??

aw97up.jpg
 
"Hell, I might even spring for a repop steering wheel off "th bay." --40 bucks or so."
Nah there's nothing wrong with that wheel, a couple rolls of electrical tape and she'll be fine. :D
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top