The "Nobody will want it" 73 Duster Driver project

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RGAZ

Diehard
Joined
Jan 20, 2021
Messages
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Location
Greenwood, SC
I am reviving a 1973 Plymouth Duster to become a driver of basic use. No engine swap here, no perfect restoration either, just a basic driver using as much as the OEM that makes sense and within reasonable cost. So lets get this thing started!!

Here is what I got from Tablebeast: 1973 Plymouth Duster

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Fender decode:
E24 225 1 BBl (basic)
D34 3 speed auto (basic)
V
L = Low LOL
29 2dr sports HT
C 225 1BBL
3 1973
B Hamtramck
***
JY3 Honey Gold
D Low trim
2 vinyl bench
Y4 gold interior (Nice)
000
August 11th day build
Upper body JY3 Honey Gold no vinyl.

Here is what I go cooking so far:
Flooring removed and viola!! The common rusty floor. I am on it.

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Almost missing a Radiator, got one from this forum (Thanks 69GTS) had it repaired, cleaned, painted and tested all good...

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And checked for build sheet or documents and not there, but seat is not bad...

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After floor I will attack the rear quarters and the oddness of the trunk quarters. Then I will give her a nice coat of paint...

BTW - she only has 90K original miles.
 
good luck with that 73, i have the twin of that car, same color and options. Im putting a 340/727 and a 8.74 3:55 rear in mine... i also wanted a daily fun car with no exterior paint done to it, plenty of dents though...just a fun car that i can park some where and not stress about the perfect paint, i already have one of those that i dont drive. i changed the tailpanel to a 70-71 style, next is the hood and grill... i will be following along..... Rich
 
I had a similar car as a kid. Petty blue with a B7 blue interior. Slant 6 and factory AC. It was the ultimate in reliability. You have a great car
 
I can't keep all the screennames straight, I was just avoiding using his actual name. The cars title does not have his screen name. LOL
 
Yep, that is it.

Anyway, project update.

Got the radiator installed and cleaned up the fan too. Tranny lines were a pain as they were bent pretty badly.

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Next I need to straighten out the fuel system: Tank, plastic filter (yikes), charcoal canister reinstall. Etc.
 
Its been a long time since my last update, but I have been driving and working on the car. Took it on the Hot Rod Power tour in 2023 and it overheated due to stuck thermostadt and old water pump, but have been doing a lot.

Here is the build sheet I found under the seat.
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Pretty basic

Then I painted the grill to make it look cleaner. I also blacked out the yellow behind.

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Looks better IMHO. Next I cleaned up the diff and decided I will swap it. Here it is cleaned up.

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Now I decided I wanted to give it the Twister Tribute, so here is a trial run (I used spay on vinyl to see what it looks like). I like it.

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I will be painting the whole car and definitely making a Twister Tribute.
More to come...

RGAZ
 
I bought a 70 roadrunner 8-3/4 off B-body only forum and here is me moving the perches and restoring it for install.
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I pressed in new studs (got rid of reverse thread) on both sides and did a total brake rebuild. The chunk is a 741 open with 2.9 gears, so that will need to be upgraded one day.

Recently, I am doing bodywork, here is the first patch area I am doing....

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I have a patch panel and will need to rebuild the drop as well.

More to come...
RGAZ
 
The Duster is actually not bad rust wise.
 
The Duster is actually not bad rust wise.
I agree. I was pleasantly surprised. It spent most of its life in Florida and moved up to NC for a little while so survived with minimal rust. Although, I am finding more Bondo that I would prefer. Someone must have owned stock!
 
that's a pretty solid car, should make a nice ride , most of these cars have had bondo added , the one I am working on was solid but had areas on rear quarter just like yours and had been smoothed over with no real repair , but still for the age very solid
 
Completed patch panel weld repair on quarter. Test fitting the new rear. Stock springs were junk so ordered ESPO springs +1 but not here until July so I will run it with the stock junk on the longest shackle. I like the fit of the rear. Wheel shown is a little bigger than stock, not sure what to go with.
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You can never have enough jackstands!!

RGAZ
 
Looking good! I remember seeing that car on Craigslist several years ago. If you haven't already done so, put a new pinion seal in it before you fill the rearend with gear lube. The last one I swapped in while doing basically the same thing you are went to dripping after it had been retired for years and then I put it back to work....lol.
 
I really like your approach and measured steps. You have been able to enjoy it. The Power Tour is on my list!!!
 
Looking good! I remember seeing that car on Craigslist several years ago. If you haven't already done so, put a new pinion seal in it before you fill the rearend with gear lube. The last one I swapped in while doing basically the same thing you are went to dripping after it had been retired for years and then I put it back to work....lol.

I wish I saw this earlier. I finished putting the rear springs, filled it (so I would not forget) and adjusting the height so I could drop it to ride height and measure for the driveshaft and noticed the bottom of the diff with a slight wetness. I thought maybe the gasket didn't seal, but now I need to check that pinion seal. Its not enough to drip, but it did seem shiny. I'll have to keep an eye on that after I get some miles on the rear.

I am dropping the driveshaft off today at Carolina Driveline (spartanburg, SC) so it can be shortened and new U-joints. I recommend these guys, very old school and more 4X4 apps, but know their stuff.

I am also finalizing the paint I am buying with my guy in Rock Hill today. So that will be on its way.

I took this picture (to verify the u-joint) and it does not look like pinion seal.

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RGAZ
 
Changing it in the car is no big deal if needed. Just jack the front end up as high as you can get it so the gear lube runs away from the pinion seal. I always mark the nut and the pinion at the same spot, and then line those marks back up when I put it back together. Never had one leak or whine doing it that way. If you need really good primer at good prices, check out Southern Polyurethane in the link below. They are in GA and ship stuff quick. Best epoxy primer you can buy....same with their clear coat.
 
Time for some updates....
New driveshaft.
And a whole lot of paint prep pics, this is just a few!
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This was right before hot rod power tour!!

RGAZ
 
Hot rod power tour! On the road, Ocoee River in TN and parked on turn 1!
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After this, I am rebuilding the suspension.

RGAZ
 
Welded up the LCA's, New poly bushings except on A-arm (std bushing). New ESPOS and torsion bars. All installed and aligned!
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Next is Finish cut and buff and minor issues while I drive it!
RGAZ
 
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