A couple weeks ago I decided to look into upgrading the stock halogen headlights in my 1974 Plymouth Scamp towards something a little different, something much brighter perhaps. After spending a few hours researching on the net and eBay for ones I absolutely liked, I was sold on the direct plug in

Jeep Wrangler 7" LED Round Headlights

IMG_20180527_125755.jpg


Spent $80 on these, in the box was:

Packing included:
2pcs 7inch Led headlights
1 Pcs Drive of CCFL
H4 H13 adapter (These are an entire H4 headlight direct plug-in setup)

Specs:
Warranty: 2 Years
Waterproof Rate: IP67
LED Chip: LED CHIPS
Operation Voltage: DC 10-12V
Shell Material: Aluminum Housing
Color Temp: 6000K White light
Life Span: More than 50,000 hours
Low Beam: 1800 LM
High Beam: 2700 LM
LED Power: 40W for each bulb, 80W in total(2PCS)


Here is a search link on eBay for them, since posting a direct link to the ones I bought would expire eventually.

2x 7 Inch Round LED Headlights Halo Angle Eyes Hi/Low Fit Jeep Wrangler JK LJ TJ | eBay


IMG_20180527_130036.jpg

IMG_20180527_130104.jpg

IMG_20180527_125817.jpg

IMG_20180527_130152.jpg



How to install them:

First off, there's a whole variety of different 7" LED round headlights out there, these are just the ones I liked the most, which ever ones you decide to get should be very similarly designed as these ones. As far as installation went for these headlights overall, it was a breeze with no modifications.

Got a phillips screw driver to take the grille headlight bezels off, then counted the turns out as I nearly completely loosened the 2 adjuster screws in order to remove the headlight with the securing ring + bucket attached. Also had to unscrew the spring that attaches to the headlight bucket to remove it all as a whole assembly since the lock ring screws were rusted on. Next, I had to get some PB blaster and a lighter to heat the 3 small screws that hold the lock ring to the headlight + onto the bucket, as they were severely rusted and in there. Once heated up, I used a cordless drill to take care of the rest. Next, I looked for any longer screws I had laying around that were relatively the same size as the small ones, once longer screws were located, I was ready to get the LED headlights installed. These headlights may seem big and bulky from the rear design, but they do fit for the most part inside the factory buckets, as long as you use longer screws for the lock ring.

I took these little 'DC to AC' block adapters/filters out of the box, plugged them right into the factory H4 harness, and tucked them neatly behind the headlight bucket once they were reinstalled. The function of these adapters is to sustain a set voltage to the headlights, so there's absolutely no voltage fluctuations, no matter where you engine's RPM is at, above 500rpm, around 500 rpm or even below they might flicker due to the fact that the alternator isn't charging properly in that range, at least in my case since I'm using the old V-belt 60 amp alternator. Had to make an adjustment to my idle later on so it's idling around 650rpms with no issues. So, I took one of the LED headlights out of the box, got the lock ring, new long screws, and hooked up the headlight to the block adapter/filter, then installed them right onto the bucket.

IMG_20180527_125859.jpg

IMG_20180527_130252.jpg

IMG_20180527_130308.jpg


There's a yellow and a red wire that I ran through the bucket over to the front core support area for now till they're integrated with the factory running light harness. The red wire activates the white LED halo, and the yellow turns them orange, you could splice these 2 wires into the running light harness if you don't want to run a separate switch. There is no additional ground wire to deal with since the ground is incorporated in the H4 plug to the halos, so literally all you'd have to do is figure out which wire is + for the running lights to have the white halos turn on. For the orange halos to light up, there must be voltage supplied to the red wire first, and then the yellow wire, as the yellow once again turns them orange, without the yellow wire, they're plain nice white halos.

While parked on the side of the street at night, I turned them on to adjust where they are pointing with the 2 main headlight bucket adjuster screws, it's not as apparent once an adjustment is made with these headlights as opposed to the halogens, my theory is because the LED light is a focally scattered by design so you can have a broader view point range in front of you, nevertheless, the brightness of these far out exceed the stock halogens by far, you can see soooooo much better a night! I'd take a picture comparison between the halogens and these for night, but the exposure on my phone's camera just doesn't do it any justice.

That's pretty much how to simply install Jeep Wrangler based 7" LED headlights in your ride! I'm very content with the light output & functionality of these headlights, and they are so much cheaper than the similarly designed JW Speaker headlights that go for around $500, however, I can only assume the JW series would put out much more lumens, any who. Hope this helps and Mopar or No Car!!

11/12/2019:
Pic below of my 1974 Magnum Swapped Plymouth Duster's recent swap, was able to use factory screws on this set no problem. For a quick tip, if you notice flickering, replace your floor dimmer/brights switch, super easy and cheap to grab one off eBay, made a huge difference on the Duster, also picked up a new headlight switch and swapped it in to help even more. You can also get an H4 Relay harness that plugs right in the factory wiring harness, and the relays send full power from the battery right to the headlights, this is more ideal for halogen lights to really make them brighter, but it is another way to lessen LED flickering due to old dirty connections in wires and switches.

IMG_20191108_191851_740.jpg

IMG_20191108_191851_741.jpg