I have installed many sets of TTI LONG TUBE headers but this is the first time installing their shorty set. Along with the Shorty's a complete TTI matching exhaust system to the back bumper.It's a 68 Valiant with a 273 mostly stock with 4 BBL and a Jegs #200161 cam kit.The cam is very similar to a 340 auto cam of the 60's/70's. By all means the 273 runs very good but is maybe 220 HP at the most with the upgrades.That is why I wanted to try the shorty's for the ease of installation. And easy it was.Follow along with me during this install.
The 2 boxes arrived,1 with the headers and the other with the complete exhaust system.I think the packages and packing could handle a nuke bomb explosion.Heavy packing material and all pipes have plastic caps and foam to keep the pipe ends from damage during shipping.
This shorty set is specific part number for 273/318 small port heads.# TTI34025273-C4 These are ceramic coated with a internal thermal coating.Shorty header adapter pipes to exhaust system # AD-T340440AC,their Torque shaft assembly for A-body column shift applications part # A34025TSA. More to come.
As you can see from the above photo the TTI system is way better than the single system it is replacing. The car has been up and running for about a year and the cobbled up single system was used till all the bugs and what nots were worked out and I was sure that the small block was staying between the fenders.
READ THE INSTRUCTIONS.This was the easiest installation ever. No lie,after the manifolds were removed it took no longer than 10 minutes that the gaskets and headers were in place and bolted down. I even re-used the end studs in the heads,always do if I can help it.In from the top on the passenger side and in from the bottom on the driver side.No jacking of the engine,no steering removal,not even the plug wires or plugs. The engine to transmission braces need to be removed as with any header installation along with the factory starter. A quick wipe down with a soap and water cloth was used to keep the coating clean and so no prints or marks would be left behind burnt in when the engine is started. Do it several times while installing the exhaust pipes to be sure.
Next is the Torque Shaft Assembly that is made to clear the pipes.A better shot photo.
AS PER INSTRUCTIONS,start from the rear of the car installing the tail pipe hangers and the muffler hangers. The muffler hangers are bolted to the factory seat belt brackets.Special longer seat belt bolts are sent with the exhaust kit.Remove the back seat bottom R&R the bolts from inside the car. Now with the longer bolts installed use the supplied nuts and washers to mount the muffler hangers.(Sorry not the best photo.)The hangers are loosely installed along with the tail pipes and mufflers.The hangers are also adjustable along with the tail pipe hangers to get everything aligned.
I work by myself so a rack and post jacks are my friends
More to come
I am gonna take a break from the exhaust work to replace the Single wire neutral safety switch to a 3 wire switch. The 68 Valiant had the reverse lite switch on the steering column and was non working so the change to the newer style has both the neutral and reverse lites in one. The replacement switch and plug is from Rock Auto.Advantech # 9A6 switch and Handypack #HP4755 plug.I checked the length of the switches to make sure they were the same to match the rooster comb.I ran wires from plug along the route of then neutral safety wire thru the firewall and connected them to the factory plugs of the reverse lites.
Back to the exhaust. I ordered the H pipe instead of the X pipe system.The thought is the little 273 is not pumping out enough HP to warrant the X.I think the price was the same. Maybe I'll try it on the next one. I like to check for burs in the pipes and mufflers cleaning them up with a file and sand paper along with some oil at the pipe end fittings so you don't have to fight with them as much.Mufflers in place and intermediate pipes are check fitted. This system is for both 111 and 108 inch wheel base cars,the Dart being the larger so the intermediate pipes were shortened about 3'' to 4''(I just eye balled the length. Also the H pipe is also shortened about 2''.
Next fit the head pipes and bolt them to the header flanges LAST. Check that everything is nice and straight and tighten the muffler clamps. After all looks good I tack each joint so that nothing moves and the pipes remain straight.
Oh I forgot to mention that you do need to use a mini starter (2000 Dakota 360 R/T) and I installed it last.It was much easier to tighten the header flange bolts with it out. Starter installation was a breeze,plenty of room with the mini.This photo just shows the starter up in place before the head pipe was installed. Again I installed the pipe,then the starter.
Mufflers were Dynomax. TTI offers several brands.
I wanted to hit on the fact that the right angle oil filter adapter can be used or if your small block is a later model, the block flat plate one works too with a short filter.Not the best photo of the right angle adapter as seen on the left of the photo.
Top shot of adapter
And last but not least,, adjusting the tail pipes. Even though the hangers are slotted and give adjustment sometimes you need a bit more.As we all know no two Mopars are the same.
The 2 boxes arrived,1 with the headers and the other with the complete exhaust system.I think the packages and packing could handle a nuke bomb explosion.Heavy packing material and all pipes have plastic caps and foam to keep the pipe ends from damage during shipping.
This shorty set is specific part number for 273/318 small port heads.# TTI34025273-C4 These are ceramic coated with a internal thermal coating.Shorty header adapter pipes to exhaust system # AD-T340440AC,their Torque shaft assembly for A-body column shift applications part # A34025TSA. More to come.
As you can see from the above photo the TTI system is way better than the single system it is replacing. The car has been up and running for about a year and the cobbled up single system was used till all the bugs and what nots were worked out and I was sure that the small block was staying between the fenders.
READ THE INSTRUCTIONS.This was the easiest installation ever. No lie,after the manifolds were removed it took no longer than 10 minutes that the gaskets and headers were in place and bolted down. I even re-used the end studs in the heads,always do if I can help it.In from the top on the passenger side and in from the bottom on the driver side.No jacking of the engine,no steering removal,not even the plug wires or plugs. The engine to transmission braces need to be removed as with any header installation along with the factory starter. A quick wipe down with a soap and water cloth was used to keep the coating clean and so no prints or marks would be left behind burnt in when the engine is started. Do it several times while installing the exhaust pipes to be sure.
Next is the Torque Shaft Assembly that is made to clear the pipes.A better shot photo.
AS PER INSTRUCTIONS,start from the rear of the car installing the tail pipe hangers and the muffler hangers. The muffler hangers are bolted to the factory seat belt brackets.Special longer seat belt bolts are sent with the exhaust kit.Remove the back seat bottom R&R the bolts from inside the car. Now with the longer bolts installed use the supplied nuts and washers to mount the muffler hangers.(Sorry not the best photo.)The hangers are loosely installed along with the tail pipes and mufflers.The hangers are also adjustable along with the tail pipe hangers to get everything aligned.
I work by myself so a rack and post jacks are my friends
More to come
I am gonna take a break from the exhaust work to replace the Single wire neutral safety switch to a 3 wire switch. The 68 Valiant had the reverse lite switch on the steering column and was non working so the change to the newer style has both the neutral and reverse lites in one. The replacement switch and plug is from Rock Auto.Advantech # 9A6 switch and Handypack #HP4755 plug.I checked the length of the switches to make sure they were the same to match the rooster comb.I ran wires from plug along the route of then neutral safety wire thru the firewall and connected them to the factory plugs of the reverse lites.
Back to the exhaust. I ordered the H pipe instead of the X pipe system.The thought is the little 273 is not pumping out enough HP to warrant the X.I think the price was the same. Maybe I'll try it on the next one. I like to check for burs in the pipes and mufflers cleaning them up with a file and sand paper along with some oil at the pipe end fittings so you don't have to fight with them as much.Mufflers in place and intermediate pipes are check fitted. This system is for both 111 and 108 inch wheel base cars,the Dart being the larger so the intermediate pipes were shortened about 3'' to 4''(I just eye balled the length. Also the H pipe is also shortened about 2''.
Next fit the head pipes and bolt them to the header flanges LAST. Check that everything is nice and straight and tighten the muffler clamps. After all looks good I tack each joint so that nothing moves and the pipes remain straight.
Oh I forgot to mention that you do need to use a mini starter (2000 Dakota 360 R/T) and I installed it last.It was much easier to tighten the header flange bolts with it out. Starter installation was a breeze,plenty of room with the mini.This photo just shows the starter up in place before the head pipe was installed. Again I installed the pipe,then the starter.
Mufflers were Dynomax. TTI offers several brands.
I wanted to hit on the fact that the right angle oil filter adapter can be used or if your small block is a later model, the block flat plate one works too with a short filter.Not the best photo of the right angle adapter as seen on the left of the photo.
Top shot of adapter
And last but not least,, adjusting the tail pipes. Even though the hangers are slotted and give adjustment sometimes you need a bit more.As we all know no two Mopars are the same.
