408 stroker engine build

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I know this is an old thread but since it covers some of what I needed to know I figured it would be a good place to ask a question.

With the 15% Summit discount going on I figure I need to act quick & order my Scat 408 stroker kit. My engine will have Edelbrock heads & a 6 pack on it. I'll probably get the heads re-worked some for a bit better flow. I already have the heads, a main-stud girdle, Comp Cams shaft mount Magnum roller rockers, a Comp roller cam (.510/.520 lift, 230/236 @ .050), Hughes springs, the six pack, lots of other misc. stuff. The car will be mostly street driven with maybe an occasional pass down the strip. I have a 4 speed & 3.91 gears, SS springs, & will probably use about a 25" to 26" rear tire. I plan to keep the compression ratio at about 10 to 1 to run pump gas. I'll have the engine balanced, have the block decked & line honed, etc.

Here's my major question. Should I just buy the cast crank, I-beam rod kit or should I spend the extra $358 & go bullet proof with the forged crank & H-beam rods. I only want to do this once & I could probably absorb the extra cost. How well does the cast crank hold up to repeated hard launches with a 4 speed? I'm in my early 50's & want to get this done so I can go out & play! :toothy10:
 
my nodular iron crank holds fine in my 4 spd car, and I'm not nice to it either.

that cam is small'ish and in no way will u see over 6500 rpm with it.jmo

your fine with a nodular iron crank, however I do not have faith in the cast steel cranks cause I've seen and heard of too many failing above the 500hp level, meanwhile the nodular cranks live to around & a lil over 550hp.

from my research I would rate them like this..
weakest to strongest .
cast iron
cast steel
factory 1053 steel
nodular iron
forged steel 4340

This info comes from builders that I know and circle track mag/hot rod/etc...

forged is the best, but like anything...it's only gonna matter if you run above 500 hp and 7000rpm shifts, or basically if you use it beyond a certain level...
 
Is the Scat cast crank a nodular iron alloy? I assume you're saying the Scat cast setup would be fine for what I'm building. I'm probably just a bit sheepish because everything I've ever built for any kind of performance application has had a forged crank. I just don't like it when things break.
 
Schultec14,give this guy a call he's the best if not one of the best when it comes to smallblock Mopars Ryan j. at Shadydell speed shop i see your located in N.J. he's just over in Pennsylvania,he'll give you HONEST answers on what will and won't work for ya'...
 
64 Cuda

The Scat cast crank is a good piece. They are good for about 550hp and I doubt you'll be in that range with a 6 pack set up. Ryan did a pair of ede's for a friend they were supposed to go 285 in the 550 lift range, 11.7:1, .570ish lift roller and it made 499 with a 6 pack. With a 950hp and Victor it made 535hp.

The main girdle is a waste. Put a set of main studs in if you want or good bolts and run it. At 500 hp it absolutely unnecessary.

If you can buy the forged crank kit, using the discount, for the same as a regular priced cast crank set up, buy the forged kit, IMO. Get the Scat I beam rods if you can, they are a good choice for what you are doing and lighter than the H beams IIRC.

A good guy to call is Brian at Indio Motor Machine 760-347-5493. Straight forward, no bs type of guy that knows his stuff. He's been a mopar guy forever because his Dad is one as well.
 
stroked 340 said:
Schultec14,give this guy a call he's the best if not one of the best when it comes to smallblock Mopars Ryan j. at Shadydell speed shop i see your located in N.J. he's just over in Pennsylvania,he'll give you HONEST answers on what will and won't work for ya'...
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you're so with it you don't realize this is a dead thread with a new poster asking a question.



to the op[64 cuda], what ever you do....don't listen to this clown.
 
Don't think they offer a kit with the forged crank & the I-beam rods but I might look at piecing things together. I've got a copy of the Scat catalog so I can get some of the part numbers. A kit seemed like the easy way to go but these days picking & choosing the right parts isn't that difficult.
 
'64 Cuda said:
Don't think they offer a kit with the forged crank & the I-beam rods but I might look at piecing things together. I've got a copy of the Scat catalog so I can get some of the part numbers. A kit seemed like the easy way to go but these days picking & choosing the right parts isn't that difficult.
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yes they do....

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SCA-1-48033-1/

that one has flat tops..no rings and bearing..

there is 6 kits with forged crank and I beam rods...depends on which pistons you want ..flat or dish...and ring/bearing or no ring/bearing...
 
Just after a quick look at things on the Summit site here's how it looks. With the 15% discount, a Scat forged crank, I-beam rods, a set of Keith Black forged Icon IC-745 pistons, and a set of 3/4 groove bearings, will cost more than the Scat forged crank kit with the H-beam rods & it will also have rod bearings.
 
48035 has the I beams in it.

If you look at CNC motorsports you might be able to piece a scat kit together, get summit to match and bang them with the 15% off

CNC prices
Crank 686
Rods 276
Pistons 426
1388

Good luck
 
70aarcuda said:
yes they do....

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SCA-1-48033-1/

that one has flat tops..no rings and bearing..

there is 6 kits with forged crank and I beam rods...depends on which pistons you want ..flat or dish...and ring/bearing or no ring/bearing...
Click to expand...

Some of those are typos. Summit has them listed as having I-beam rods when they really have H-beams. But there is a kit listed that looks like it might be just what I need (if it's not another Summit typo). No bearings but that's easy to deal with. Don't know why I wasn't able to come up with them when I searched before. Thanks.




Just double checked the part numbers. It's the same H-beam kit I was looking at before, just minus the bearings.
 
According to the Scat site the 48035 has I beam rods, not H's/

CHRYSLER SMALL BLOCK 360 MAIN, 4340 FORGED STANDARD WEIGHT CRANK, I-BEAM RODS WITH 7/16" CAP SCREWS
CI Crank Rod Piston Boresize Type 58cc 64cc 70cc Inclcrp Inclcrprb Comp
416 4-360-4000-6123 2-ICR6123-2124 FORGED 4.030 FLAT 12.1 11.3 10.8 1-48033-1 1-48033 1-48033BI
416 4-360-4000-6123 2-ICR6123-2124 FORGED 4.030 DISH 10.2 9.7 9.3 1-48035-1 1-48035 1-48035BI
 
1wild&crazyguy said:
you're so with it you don't realize this is a dead thread with a new poster asking a question.



to the op[64 cuda], what ever you do....don't listen to this clown.
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Hey wild and useless get a life will ya':thebirdm::thebirdm::thebirdm:

64 cuda excellent choice on cylinder heads,if you want to see real improvements send them to a guy that actually KNOWS what he's doing..Ryan j.:thumbup::thumbup:
 
hey stroke victim 340, let some air outta yer head already, you think there's only 1 guy on the face of the planet that can build a mopar....

you are basically saying that no one on this site knows what they are doing.
 
crackedback said:
According to the Scat site the 48035 has I beam rods, not H's/

CHRYSLER SMALL BLOCK 360 MAIN, 4340 FORGED STANDARD WEIGHT CRANK, I-BEAM RODS WITH 7/16" CAP SCREWS
CI Crank Rod Piston Boresize Type 58cc 64cc 70cc Inclcrp Inclcrprb Comp
416 4-360-4000-6123 2-ICR6123-2124 FORGED 4.030 FLAT 12.1 11.3 10.8 1-48033-1 1-48033 1-48033BI
416 4-360-4000-6123 2-ICR6123-2124 FORGED 4.030 DISH 10.2 9.7 9.3 1-48035-1 1-48035 1-48035BI
Click to expand...

I don't know what to think now. According to the Scat catalog I downloaded from their site about 2 weeks ago that kit has H-beam rods, not I-beams. Also, I emailed Summit to double check & they wrote back to me today confirming that the 48035 kit has H-beam rods & said they would correct the listing on their website. :dontknow:
 
Call Scat and ask...

The catalog I have shows 4340 I beams.
 
Code expires tonight so you better hurry if you plan on using it!

If the kit comes with H or I beams it won't make that big of a difference
 
Well, I didn't realize the discount expired tonight. Thanks for the heads up crackedback! I went ahead & ordered the 1-48035 kit. I saved almost $245 with the discount. It's not expected to ship until after the first of next month so I've got a little time to cancel if for some reason I decide it's not what I want but I think it'll be fine, I-beams or H-beams. Probably a bit easier to assemble with I-beams & maybe easier to balance too, but I can live with it either way.
 
Good that you got it ordered.

In the big picture, the rods aren't really going to be a big deal.
 
I agree, unless you're planning on hitting it with a 250 shot or boosting it, the Scat I beams should be good to go. I plan on buying that kit next time Summit puts out a code, hopefully next summer.

Wildandcrazy and Stroked, you two need to quit your bickering and ruining every stroker or cyl head thread!! I don't want to ignore you guys because I think that you have something to add. But jeesh, give it a break will ya?!?!
 
BrianT said:
I agree, unless you're planning on hitting it with a 250 shot or boosting it, the Scat I beams should be good to go. I plan on buying that kit next time Summit puts out a code, hopefully next summer.

Wildandcrazy and Stroked, you two need to quit your bickering and ruining every stroker or cyl head thread!! I don't want to ignore you guys because I think that you have something to add. But jeesh, give it a break will ya?!?!
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I agree 100% with you but i certainly won't sit idle while some assface comes on here and talks down to me in EVERY thread i comment in..
 
I wouldn't bother with after market rods unless going h beam, I have many sets of floating 340 rods and arp bolts that would save $$$ and work great to this level of hp, but thats me.
 
1wild&crazyguy said:
I wouldn't bother with after market rods unless going h beam, I have many sets of floating 340 rods and arp bolts that would save $$$ and work great to this level of hp, but thats me.
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I think you're right about handling the horsepower but the generel consensus seems to be that the cost of reworking stock rods & adding the ARP bolts is about the same as buying the aftermarket rods. I'm not sure if just adding the bolts to the stock rod is all that's necessary to make them clear the block with a 4" stroke but the aftermarket I-beams usually clear without grinding on the block.
 
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