Model Car Tips & Advice

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not this one . Its the flash on my camera .

heres one for you.if you want to disassemble a built model use mineral spirits. Brush it on the glued areas,leave sit for a few minutes if it don't come loose use more mineral spirits. Also does not harm the glass.
 
Ok Reb , you want to do vinyl tops ? I got one here , and I'll go through the whole process with you . Its one I had promised to do for a guy at my last car show anyhow . Be patient with me . I only work on them a couple hours a night when I can . First , paint your car . I wouldn't clear it yet , just get the paint how you want it . Next , take a strip of inch and a half masking tape and paint it the color you want your vinyl . I have to stop here , because I just did it , and my paint isn't cured yet . We'll call this Step 1 . More to follow .
this made me think of something I didn't bring up- a wire frame for the body when painting-makes it a lot easier (and better) than just setting it on something to paint it. Kinda like a mini rotisserie:D.


Also, I like to airbrush my models in the kitchen sink, then cover the area with a box so no dust can get to it while it dries.
Yes, I'm single lol.
 
Now we are ready for step 2 .Place the masking tape as close to the center down the body front to back . Make sure it goes a little over the front and back glass . Flatten it out good , starting in the middle and working end to end . Use a toothpick or fingernail to push it in the groove of the trim . Then trim it at the chrome trim level of the glass . Use a good hobby knife . Next up , lay down a piece 1/16 of an inch overlap on the side , making sure that it is long enough to go from the A - pillar to behind the C - pillar . Smooth it out the same way as the center , from the middle out . It can be tricky going around contours . If it starts to wad up , trim some of the excess off around the window openings and it will lay down . Work it down with your finger , and trim it . Repeat for other side . We'll finish tomorrow , bare metal foil it , and clearcoat .
 

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this made me think of something I didn't bring up- a wire frame for the body when painting-makes it a lot easier (and better) than just setting it on something to paint it. Kinda like a mini rotisserie:D.


Also, I like to airbrush my models in the kitchen sink, then cover the area with a box so no dust can get to it while it dries.
Yes, I'm single lol.

So you have a picture of your mini rotisserie?
 
Now we are ready for step 2 .Place the masking tape as close to the center down the body front to back . Make sure it goes a little over the front and back glass . Flatten it out good , starting in the middle and working end to end . Use a toothpick or fingernail to push it in the groove of the trim . Then trim it at the chrome trim level of the glass . Use a good hobby knife . Next up , lay down a piece 1/16 of an inch overlap on the side , making sure that it is long enough to go from the A - pillar to behind the C - pillar . Smooth it out the same way as the center , from the middle out . It can be tricky going around contours . If it starts to wad up , trim some of the excess off around the window openings and it will lay down . Work it down with your finger , and trim it . Repeat for other side . We'll finish tomorrow , bare metal foil it , and clearcoat .

This is great Thanks.
 
So you have a picture of your mini rotisserie?

Hey OTR, not meaning to hijack this, but thought I'd just throw an alternative idea out there. Rather than a "rotisserie", I've always used a wire clothes hanger bent to fit the inside of the car body. You can bend it up so it's a little wider than the inside of the car body and it will act like a spring trying to expand and hold the car body in place. The wire hanger lets you turn the body to all sorts of angles while you're painting it. If you bend it right you can also use the hook on the clothes hanger to hang the painted body perfectly upside down while drying - this minimizes any potential for dust landing in the wet/drying paint.
EZ enough to do and cheap too!
 
Hey OTR, not meaning to hijack this, but thought I'd just throw an alternative idea out there. Rather than a "rotisserie", I've always used a wire clothes hanger bent to fit the inside of the car body. You can bend it up so it's a little wider than the inside of the car body and it will act like a spring trying to expand and hold the car body in place. The wire hanger lets you turn the body to all sorts of angles while you're painting it. If you bend it right you can also use the hook on the clothes hanger to hang the painted body perfectly upside down while drying - this minimizes any potential for dust landing in the wet/drying paint.
EZ enough to do and cheap too!

That will work. I have plenty of coat hangers. Thank You
 
Yes , the coat hanger is the way to go . You can pick up , turn , move about any way you need to avoid runs or tiger stripes . They are great to have around . No balancing issues either !
 
I have a glue question. What glue should I use and how should it be applied?
 
Testors . Only use Testors . Use Testors cement for models and Testors clear parts cement for all the glass pieces .
 
I still build model cars when I find the time and trust me when I say that you can do some awsome paint work with a nice airbrush.I can't find any of my model cars but heres a few things I did,the rear louvers for my Daytona and a sportster tank that was mounted on a friends mini chopper(which was the first time I tried to do a girl with paint,no pun intended):D
 

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What is the best way to prep a body and interior for paint?
 
by now most of you guy's have seen some of my visions,i build them how i would like it if it was real,and i wasnt broke.All my models are what they call kit bashed.i don't always know what vehicle i would be building.the first thing i deal with is stance.any vehicle has to sit right,even a model,my 50 ford f 1 truck was a[] thrift store donation.i think i nailed it.ATTACH]270980[/ATTACH
 

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clean with soap (dish soap works well) and water, rinse well, dry and try not to touch the surface to be painted with your fingers

Thank you I have some gloves I can use to wash it. Guess I better make a a hanger to set it on and a Box to keep it covered.
 
I went to Hobby Lobby and they had 2 different type of testor glue. Testor non Toxic in a blue tube and Testor glue for polystyrene in a red tube. Which one is best or do y'all use a different glue?
 
The red tube for sure! Testor's also make a liquid glue in a black container with a needle tube applicator that works great too.
 
The red tube for sure! Testor's also make a liquid glue in a black container with a needle tube applicator that works great too.

I will get the red tube and use tooth picks to apply the glue unless there is a better way.
 
I will get back on that vinyl top this week . Got behind getting my garages ready for winter . Haven't forgotten , just got busy .
 
Use the Testors in the black bottle. The needle helps in placing it out.
Thats all I use. I do use super glue with the resin parts. Also when modifing
bodies and other stuff. Less chance of it coming apart.
Used alot of super glue on this. 41 Plymouth with a 40 Ford panel rear.
 

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I will get back on that vinyl top this week . Got behind getting my garages ready for winter . Haven't forgotten , just got busy .

No Problem.

The red tube for sure! Testor's also make a liquid glue in a black container with a needle tube applicator that works great too.

Use the Testors in the black bottle. The needle helps in placing it out.
Thats all I use. I do use super glue with the resin parts. Also when modifing
bodies and other stuff. Less chance of it coming apart.
Used alot of super glue on this. 41 Plymouth with a 40 Ford panel rear.

I think I will use the testor glue in the black bottle. Thanks for the help.
 
While sorting through all my unbuilt models I ran across my last project.

I decided to build an original version of Ed Roths Tweedy Pie and swap out the chevy engine for a Flathead and put on whitewall tires with baby moons in place of the ones that came with the kit. I decided that I would concentrate on detail also.
Well as it turned out the flat head was a bit longer than the Chevy and after assembly I discovered that there was not enough room between the body and the radiator. My frustration level was very high at that time and I just put every thing in boxs and in the attic it went. That was probably ten or so years ago and I haven't done any building since.

My tip is that before you do your final assembly test fit everything so you won't get any bad surprises later
 

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