MRL King of the Hill Street SBM

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MRL Performance

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A lot of guys ask for a street engine with great power. And what does that mean, Street? It means different things to different people. But for the most part it means the following.............

Street engine should have
1. Pump gas
2. Fair idle for everyday driving
3. Enough vacuum for power brakes, A/C and power steering
4. No over heating issues
5. Decent FE
6. No maintenance except oil changes and air filters
7. Hydraulic cam
8. Good longevity
9. And Butt loads of power down low and up top

That's a TALL order, and I have been tweaking on this combo for a few years. Here is the King of the Street SBM. It has all of the above, and more.

The Basic combo run down

SBM 340 stroker
4.110 bore (yes sonic tested to make sure it was safe)
4.00 stroke
MRL HR cam 239-243 .550/.560 lift
MRL Procomp heads, fully ported
Comp roller rockers
RPM intake
10.7 to 1 compression
Kevko oil pan
FAST EZ 2.0 with full ignition control
93 octane pump gas from Shell
This combo has made great power in the past. But we have made a few changes and found some real power. So here is the power that this little SBM made

Torque, its really what defines a good street engine. This one has more than enough. How much, well how does 500+ from 2800-6200rpm sound??? Pretty darn good right? It made 570TQ from 4350-4850 peaking with 577TQ at 4700rpm!

Power, its fun so we can not discount that. It made 575HP from 5500-6100rpm peaking with 582HP right around 5800rpm!

Dyno pulls were made from 2800-6200 and it never dropped below 500TQ.

So there you have it, A Street SBM that has all the above characteristics that made 582HP/577TQ, with EFI reliability and drivability. Idles at 900-950 with a slight lope and pulls 13-14in vacuum. This is a Winner Winner Steak Dinner, save the chicken for the other guys LOL
 

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Always interested in your builds. Could you tell me what crank you would you in this one. Thanks Kevin.
 
Mike what does something like this run with the EFI and all?
 
pretty cool. Interesting would be what a 4.25" crank would do....somewhere around 450 ci. Should make even more torque!

Michael
 
A street engine should also not cost 2 times what I paid for the car....!

Ball park figure on price?

I hear only great reviews on your work!
 
Wow those are impressive numbers Mike. Nicely done!
 
downsr said:
Price ??????
Click to expand...

81c0d2b8bdacdea3b0d0667b3e599710.jpg
 
MRL Performance said:
A lot of guys ask for a street engine with great power. And what does that mean, Street? It means different things to different people. But for the most part it means the following.............

Street engine should have
1. Pump gas
2. Fair idle for everyday driving
3. Enough vacuum for power brakes, A/C and power steering
4. No over heating issues
5. Decent FE
6. No maintenance except oil changes and air filters
7. Hydraulic cam
8. Good longevity
9. And Butt loads of power down low and up top

That's a TALL order, and I have been tweaking on this combo for a few years. Here is the King of the Street SBM. It has all of the above, and more.

The Basic combo run down

SBM 340 stroker
4.110 bore (yes sonic tested to make sure it was safe)
4.00 stroke
MRL HR cam 239-243 .550/.560 lift
MRL Procomp heads, fully ported
Comp roller rockers
RPM intake
10.7 to 1 compression
Kevko oil pan
FAST EZ 2.0 with full ignition control
93 octane pump gas from Shell
This combo has made great power in the past. But we have made a few changes and found some real power. So here is the power that this little SBM made

Torque, its really what defines a good street engine. This one has more than enough. How much, well how does 500+ from 2800-6200rpm sound??? Pretty darn good right? It made 570TQ from 4350-4850 peaking with 577TQ at 4700rpm!

Power, its fun so we can not discount that. It made 575HP from 5500-6100rpm peaking with 582HP right around 5800rpm!

Dyno pulls were made from 2800-6200 and it never dropped below 500TQ.

So there you have it, A Street SBM that has all the above characteristics that made 582HP/577TQ, with EFI reliability and drivability. Idles at 900-950 with a slight lope and pulls 13-14in vacuum. This is a Winner Winner Steak Dinner, save the chicken for the other guys LOL
Click to expand...

Thats some amazing numbers for a streetable engine.
 
Ya man, Mike always has something really nice to show. And with such a mild cam to boot. My mom would drive this to church.
 
Still on Vacation, but have a few minutes to post reply. I will try and answer these questions in one post

Crank is a SCAt 9000 cast steel 4.00 stroke

4.25 stroke in a SBM to me is a very Bad idea, longevity will suffer. You will either have a real bad rod ratio or a piston with no skirt. Rod ratio does make a BIG difference if the rod angle gets to bad, it will try and put that rod right thru the side of the block

Drivability is about the same as the CC

Did not run a carb, but the best carb combo made 520-530

This build is not for everyone. And its not a Simple put it together build either. There are things done to this engine you don't see and will never get in those cookie cutter "crate" engines. Not to mention they will not make this kind of power with this kind of drivability. The list of things this engine meets to make it streetable is not one I made up, but from talking to you guys, HUNDEREDS of you over the last 20 years or so. This is what a lot of you want. It has taken me years of tweaking, applying new processes and products and many MANY hours of dyno testing to get this combo where its at. Is the most powerful thing out there? Hell NO. Can it make more? Hell YES. If we were to swap the hydraulic roller for a solid roller this combo would make 600/600+!

Cost for THIS build was in the $12-$13K range, depending on options. Complete from T-Body to oil pan, entire EFI system with fuel pump/system, dual sync dist, Dyno tuned and ready to Rock! Yes its a bit out there in cost, but this is not your Standard SBM build. I am proud of this build, it hits all marks and is just a sweetheart of a runner. When I get another Mopar this is what Im going to build and put in it for myself!
 
MRL Performance said:
And its not a Simple put it together build either. There are things done to this engine you don't see and will never get in those cookie cutter "crate" engines.
Click to expand...

if there is one thing that I keep hearing about Mike it is this
something about tricks, doing things to the inside of the engine, black chickens at midnight and other voodoo to make them run
 
LOL! Can't give away the secrecta that keep the farm running now can we?!?!
 
That's with the 30401 or 30402 kit with fuel system, dual sync dist and the entire FAST ignition system.
 
MRL Performance said:
Still on Vacation, but have a few minutes to post reply. I will try and answer these questions in one post

Crank is a SCAt 9000 cast steel 4.00 stroke

4.25 stroke in a SBM to me is a very Bad idea, longevity will suffer. You will either have a real bad rod ratio or a piston with no skirt. Rod ratio does make a BIG difference if the rod angle gets to bad, it will try and put that rod right thru the side of the block

Drivability is about the same as the CC

Did not run a carb, but the best carb combo made 520-530

This build is not for everyone. And its not a Simple put it together build either. There are things done to this engine you don't see and will never get in those cookie cutter "crate" engines. Not to mention they will not make this kind of power with this kind of drivability. The list of things this engine meets to make it streetable is not one I made up, but from talking to you guys, HUNDEREDS of you over the last 20 years or so. This is what a lot of you want. It has taken me years of tweaking, applying new processes and products and many MANY hours of dyno testing to get this combo where its at. Is the most powerful thing out there? Hell NO. Can it make more? Hell YES. If we were to swap the hydraulic roller for a solid roller this combo would make 600/600+!

Cost for THIS build was in the $12-$13K range, depending on options. Complete from T-Body to oil pan, entire EFI system with fuel pump/system, dual sync dist, Dyno tuned and ready to Rock! Yes its a bit out there in cost, but this is not your Standard SBM build. I am proud of this build, it hits all marks and is just a sweetheart of a runner. When I get another Mopar this is what Im going to build and put in it for myself!
Click to expand...
I hink it's a good deal , for what you're getting , of course the Wall-Mart crowd will squawk , but you get what you pay for . Well done Mr MRL !!
 
That's a dang good price for a fuel injected stroker package.
 
MRL Performance said:
Still on Vacation, but have a few minutes to post reply. I will try and answer these questions in one post

Crank is a SCAt 9000 cast steel 4.00 strokeGood choice on this--way lighter than a forging

4.25 stroke in a SBM to me is a very Bad idea, longevity will suffer. Not likely any worse than a 4"--I just did a 436 with a 6.2" rod and a 1.275" comp height--plentyYou will either have a real bad rod ratio or a piston with no skirt. Rod ratio does make a BIG difference if the rod angle gets to bad,(not as much as I used to think) it will try and put that rod right thru the side of the block

Drivability is about the same as the CCCubes don't mean near as much as LSA does

Did not run a carb, but the best carb combo made 520-530

This build is not for everyone. And its not a Simple put it together build either.That's for sure! There are things done to this engine you don't see and will never get in those cookie cutter "crate" engines. Not to mention they will not make this kind of power with this kind of drivability. The list of things this engine meets to make it streetable is not one I made up, but from talking to you guys, HUNDEREDS of you over the last 20 years or so. This is what a lot of you want. It has taken me years of tweaking, applying new processes and products and many MANY hours of dyno testing to get this combo where its at. Is the most powerful thing out there? Hell NO. Can it make more? Hell YES. If we were to swap the hydraulic roller for a solid roller this combo would make 600/600+!I would swap from the dual plane first to get over the 600 hp mark.

Cost for THIS build was in the $12-$13K range, depending on options. Complete from T-Body to oil pan, entire EFI system with fuel pump/system, dual sync dist, Dyno tuned and ready to Rock! Yes its a bit out there in cost, It is not a bit out there for the cost-you are too cheap!but this is not your Standard SBM build. I am proud of this build, it hits all marks and is just a sweetheart of a runner. When I get another Mopar this is what Im going to build and put in it for myself!
Click to expand...

Nice build and with that cam it is sure to raise eyebrows probably more than any of your other builds! Good job.J.Rob
 
So the Fast EZ 2.0 nets roughly 60HP, more or less
 
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