440 under car headers need advice.

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73440abody

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What's out there for a long tube under car header. Needs to be able to hold 500-600 hp. 73 duster, power steering. Money is no issue.
 
You are correct,,I'm wrong they do fit PS with a "B" engine in a "A" but not the "RB".OOPS !jumped the gun,, Sorry
 
TTI headers will clear with a little heat and pounding with a hammer.. I have older 2" TTi's in my 383 manual steer Demon and they required pounding by the linkage, and steering box
 
Hard to spend 750-1000 and then pound on them. P/S is an issue. Early B body TTI fit, 2" tubes. But they are tight.
 
Money no issue. Have em built. Insist on equal lenght. And spark plug access. Then stop by often to watch progress and learn why they cost so much.
 
Hooker has an engine swap section for 383-440 in a bodies simple black powder coated 1 7/8 pn 5205hkr 2 1/8 pn 5215hkr
 
The Schumacher won't have the flow. Looking at going the custom route. The hookers are fenderwell headers. Not cutting my car apart after I just got done patching it there.
 
The Schumacher won't have the flow. Looking at going the custom route. The hookers are fenderwell headers. Not cutting my car apart after I just got done patching it there.

True Schumacher flow is not the best, I run a 500HP motor with them and still run 11.50s. I know TTI headers will flow a lot better, but what are you going to do with the car, street car, race, or both. That should help you decide on a tight fitting header or a set that has room around them.
 
It's going to be a street car with a few random stops at the track. Not worried about over heating.
 
The Schumacher won't have the flow. Looking at going the custom route. The hookers are fenderwell headers. Not cutting my car apart after I just got done patching it there.

Bulls**t. Do you have a flow bench to prove it? Pipes only flow as much as their narrowest point, which happens to be the same spot on all of them; the flange, and the 90* bend there-after.

PS: What the hell do you need 600HP on the street for? Where are you going to responsibly let that loose? C'mon man, be realistic.

Keep it neat on the street, fast on the track.
 
Sorry if I offended you, but I've seen similar builds to mine on the dyno with and without Schumachers. There is a difference when you start making more power.

PS: I guess I'll have to upgrade my rear view mirror now knowing you don't put down that kinda power on the street. Lol
 
Bulls**t. Do you have a flow bench to prove it? Pipes only flow as much as their narrowest point, which happens to be the same spot on all of them; the flange, and the 90* bend there-after.

PS: What the hell do you need 600HP on the street for? Where are you going to responsibly let that loose? C'mon man, be realistic.

Keep it neat on the street, fast on the track.

The info is right on schumachers site. Their headers are .4 tenths sower than the TTI's in a head to head comparison.

WHy do you need 600hp on the street. Why does a new hellcat need 707hp or a new GT500 need 650hp? This is a recreational hobby. It's kind of like build your own sundae. Mild to wild it's the owners choice which way to go. Also some of us do like to have some strip time.
 
All 440a bodies should be choked down to 100 hp.
 
2" tti's will work for ya. so will custom made headers in 2" also.you can get 2" "B" body under chassis and all but the #7 pipe will fit, it just needs altered to miss the fire wall.
 
Bulls**t. Do you have a flow bench to prove it? Pipes only flow as much as their narrowest point, which happens to be the same spot on all of them; the flange, and the 90* bend there-after.

PS: What the hell do you need 600HP on the street for? Where are you going to responsibly let that loose? C'mon man, be realistic.

Keep it neat on the street, fast on the track.

600 aint enough down here they will just laugh at you
 
Sorry if I offended you, but I've seen similar builds to mine on the dyno with and without Schumachers. There is a difference when you start making more power.

PS: I guess I'll have to upgrade my rear view mirror now knowing you don't put down that kinda power on the street. Lol

I can't understand why the forums all attract jerks and know it all types like the guy calling BS on you like that. That's the reason I rarely come on here anymore. Anyway here's what I know and none of this is new or groundbreaking. The Schumacher try-Ys fit good, work with PS and make life easy but cost somewhere between 30-50 hp. Unless something has changed, none of the under chassis headers like TTIs will clear the factory PS box without some kind of heavy hammering or rework, they are a pain in the *** to install and they trap the starter. Hooker and other fenderwell headers clear the PS by a mile and don't trap the starter but as we know require big holes in the inner fenders, have tire clearance issues and if you want a nice clean under car exhaust it will be an issue because the collectors are in the fenderwells. The Pro Part headers form Bob Mazzolini racing solve all the problems except you have to cut one small hole in the passenger side fenderwell for the cylinder #8 tube and a medium size hole in the DS fenderwell for the tubes from cylinders #3 and 5. Those tubes run through the fenderwells and curve right back to the collectors under the car. I just swapped out my Schumachers for the Pro Parts and I'm very happy with the results. I still have the factory PS, the only things I had to do to make that work was fab a custom 90 degree fitting that is very short and tight to the box and put one small dent in the tube from cyl 3 to clear it and I cut the return nipple off the PS pump and changed the clocking from about 2 O'clock to 4 O'clock so the return hose could be routed away from the tube from cyl 1. You also have to replace the factory steering shaft coupler with a Flamming River U-joint style coupler for clearance. The only issues I've encountered with the Pro Parts are the left front tire (I run Mickey Thompson street front runners) just kisses one of the tubes at full lock and the collectors hang down pretty low so ground clearance is compromised. I'm planning on reworking my collectors to remedy that. As far as custom headers, I very much doubt anyone will be able to solve all the issues and make headers that solve all the problems. Some compromise is a necessary evil with a big block A body.
 
What's out there for a long tube under car header. Needs to be able to hold 500-600 hp. 73 duster, power steering. Money is no issue.

Well you for got to add some info about your car. Like what engine RB or B and what head?
do you have any pics of your car? i have a 73 duster i am slowing building up. first if it was me i would just install Manuel steering, would make it a lot easier to get a set of headers to fit. Unless you just want to keep your power steering. I had the 2 inch TTI headers in my 1973 dodge dart with a 440 and Indy EZ heads and the tti worked great, i didn't have to heat or dent any tubes to make them fit. I did have to drill a hole in the inner fender to make getting at number 6 spark plug easier to get to and had to remove the pit-man arm grease zerk. iIt seems like i lot of people dont know but another company makes a under chassis header for a big block abody and they are known as Mad Dog headers.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=267639
Also if money is no object here are some for you, but damn that's a lot of money.lol

http://www.perfweldheaders.com/abody_mopar.html
 
Well you for got to add some info about your car. Like what engine RB or B and what head?
do you have any pics of your car? i have a 73 duster i am slowing building up. first if it was me i would just install Manuel steering, would make it a lot easier to get a set of headers to fit. Unless you just want to keep your power steering. I had the 2 inch TTI headers in my 1973 dodge dart with a 440 and Indy EZ heads and the tti worked great, i didn't have to heat or dent any tubes to make them fit. I did have to drill a hole in the inner fender to make getting at number 6 spark plug easier to get to and had to remove the pit-man arm grease zerk. iIt seems like i lot of people dont know but another company makes a under chassis header for a big block abody and they are known as Mad Dog headers.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=267639

Also if money is no object here are some for you, but damn that's a lot of money.lol

http://www.perfweldheaders.com/abody_mopar.html
I'm kind of surprised at how willing a lot of people are to get rid of the power steering on a street cars in order to fit parts like headers for performance gains. I've never driven an A body, let alone a big block A body with out power steering but I had a GTO with a big block Chevy and a Firebird with a Pontiac 350, both with manual steering and both were a real pain to drive in the pits at the track or parking lots or any slow speed maneuvering. For me PS is a must have on a street car, its makes the car much more enjoyable and it adds points or creed to build a car that runs hard without resorting to removing amenities to get there. To each his own. My advice is to keep the PS, you won't regret it.
 
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