Jeep 4.0 in 69 Barracuda

-
I will check with my brother he had a couple 6 cyl hemis lying around. He might have binned them though. Long way to ship but a pallet with a couple engines seafreight would be reasonably affordable if he's still got them.
 
I will check with my brother he had a couple 6 cyl hemis lying around. He might have binned them though. Long way to ship but a pallet with a couple engines seafreight would be reasonably affordable if he's still got them.

OMG, that would be way cool. Please let me know if its possible and how much to ship to Sumner Wa (ZipCode 98391).

BTW: It would be the Port of Tacoma, Wa if I had to go pick it up.

John
 
Ok, the 318 engine and tranny is on Craigslist.

If anyone wants it, PM me and I will send you the status and link. I am going to try and trade for 265 hemi 6.

I know its a long shot, but a man can have dreams I guess.
 
Hmmm, you got me thinking of doing something similar now... With an early Dart or Valiant.

Will require some fab work but that's fine, the curiosity-meter is a tickin'. I used to own a 1992 jeep cherokee with a 5 speed. (Aisin AX-15) One of the best car I've ever owned. Sold it to a friend at 240,000 miles. Finally gave up the ghost at 325,000ish miles. (Speedo was off)
 
Hmmm, you got me thinking of doing something similar now... With an early Dart or Valiant.

Will require some fab work but that's fine, the curiosity-meter is a tickin'. I used to own a 1992 jeep cherokee with a 5 speed. (Aisin AX-15) One of the best car I've ever owned. Sold it to a friend at 240,000 miles. Finally gave up the ghost at 325,000ish miles. (Speedo was off)

If your really considering this, I have some really good news. If you change out the steering using a pinto rack, then this is totally do able. Its almost as if the engine and the car was meant for eachother.

More to come in my next post along with images...

John
 
Ok everybody,
Here is what you want to see.

If you look (zoom in) at the engine side mount as located to the stock 318 K Member, this is the driver side....
20151228_203208_zpshwsaiw2s.jpg


And here is the passenger side....
20151228_203325_zpstc86mib4.jpg


So looking at these 2 images, the engine is out of a 88 Cherokee with a RENIX engine. There are other engine side mounts I am going to look at, including the 80's CJ mounts as they are closer to the block. The CJ frame rails are narrower then a YJ or Cherokee.

Those these pictures don't show it very well, this engine is a bit sideways, but the mounts almost seem to perfectly line up. I would need flatten the K-Member frame mount. Both driver and passenger side need to be the same height and flat.

As you can see in this image, the RENIX altenator sits way low allow its back to hit the K-Member close to the lower control arm strut.
20151228_203349_zpsnppslbdi.jpg


Of course with the new K-Member, I suspect will provide more clearance. More so, I will probably be running a H.O. Era configuration and probably buy a alt bracket from a Wrangler such as a YJ which brings the Alt just under the AC Pump.

Here is the front shot of the engine in the bay. Note its about 5 inches below the hood line.
20151228_203312_zpsqlalyzcz.jpg


In this last set of images, I have some front and rear clearences....

Here is the front, if I want to make use of the stock engine mount locations (which makes it easier for AJE to build a K-Member), then I am going to have to make use of a pusher fan in front of the radiator. This will give me about 4 inches of space for the front of the engine, and about 2 inches of space between the engine and firewall...

20151228_203254_zpsrammzliv.jpg


20151228_203359_zpscphm0ysh.jpg


I will be getting a set of images for how low the engine sits past the K-Member as well as measurements for the tranny this weekend.

More so, I need to talk to a fabricator about building a engine cradle to hold the engine more level so I can take more accurate measurement.

John
 
They do in the early A (64-66), 67 and up used different for the slant and V8
 
Ok, I got more info to share. So for those of you who have owned or worked on Jeep 4.0's, you know the bottom of the oil pan is NOT flat. Now my engine is not totally straight, but here is a shot of the oil pan below the K-Member.

20151229_180717_zpsutggbobx.jpg



I was not able to get a decent picture of the space between the middle (front edge) of the K-Member and oil pan, but I can tell you there is about 1.5 to 2 inches of clearance.

These last two images show how much distance there is between a stock Jeep engine mount and the K-Member locations. I will probably purchase engine lift engine mounts from Brown Dog. I bought the 1.5 inch lift mounts for my YJ. Love them. They are made of a normal Poly suspension bushing. And have a great reputation in the Jeep Community

Using a coke can a size reference
20151229_180925_zpsx74zrw5s.jpg
.

20151229_180851_zpsdx84tbqq.jpg


So even though I could push this engine back another inch, I think that will require modification of the trans tunnel. Which I am trying to avoid. My other option would be to allow the engine and tranny to sit lower, but I dont think thats a great idea. Also, I am have not measured how far back the shifter will be. I think it will be ok, but that number will come this weekend.

So I think I have a plan of action. I am going to purchase some 3/8 metal to build custom brackets which fit over the stock K-Member mount locations, only going straight up instead of at a angle. And see how the engine sits with no motor mount. Once thats done, I will place metal between the piece I built and the motor mount till I get the height I want. After which, ship that K-Member to AJE Racing ask them to build accordingly.

At this time, I have to financially recover from XMas and my oldest son's project car work we did over the holiday. I suspect this thread will go quiet for a month. I do plan on purchasing the needed metal at some point in Jan.

Will keep everyone posted as to my next steps.
 
Regarding my front radiator support question I asked earlier. I heard from RRR, are there any other opinions or suggestions as to how people have seen things done?

From this point moving forward I am going to probably have the engine and tranny separated.
 
Hey just wanted to get back to you on the cam stuff, prob too late but FYI... the stock HO cam from '91-6 is like 270* adv. duration but a measly 197* at .050" and maybe .420" lift. Bumping up to even just 210* at .050" and .460-ish lift would be a huge improvement. Check out JeepStrokers.com there's tons of testimonials and info on aftermarket cams. I've got my eye on a Crane, I like the Voodoos as well but the fast ramps reduce longevity.

Awesome build way to prove the naysayers wrong, looks more than doable!
 
Hey just wanted to get back to you on the cam stuff, prob too late but FYI... the stock HO cam from '91-6 is like 270* adv. duration but a measly 197* at .050" and maybe .420" lift. Bumping up to even just 210* at .050" and .460-ish lift would be a huge improvement. Check out JeepStrokers.com there's tons of testimonials and info on aftermarket cams. I've got my eye on a Crane, I like the Voodoos as well but the fast ramps reduce longevity.

Awesome build way to prove the naysayers wrong, looks more than doable!

You are not too late. I am still working with the "mock up" engine block. For those who can not tell, this block still has the renix intake system which will not work with the Wrangler H.O. fuel management.

More importantly, I just found my solution for the alternator being so low and hitting the K-Member. The H.O. in my buddies Grand Cherokee has the alt just under the AC pump which brings it up almost 8 inches. I have moved to a new phone an as soon as I can get some pictures, I will get them posted to show what I mean.

John
 
You are not too late. I am still working with the "mock up" engine block. For those who can not tell, this block still has the renix intake system which will not work with the Wrangler H.O. fuel management.

More importantly, I just found my solution for the alternator being so low and hitting the K-Member. The H.O. in my buddies Grand Cherokee has the alt just under the AC pump which brings it up almost 8 inches. I have moved to a new phone an as soon as I can get some pictures, I will get them posted to show what I mean.

John

Is the head different too? I got a 1999-up ram-tuned intake manifold for my 4.0 as an upgrade for about $125 shipped off eBay. From what I've read the HO heads are also much better than the Renix, if it were mine I'd just swap the whole top end. You are looking for power right? Lol :glasses7:
 
I think that maybe you could get the engine to fit with the factory steer linkage if you could modify the oil pan a bit. Obviously the oil pickup would need to be modified too. the 4.0's have an oil pump the is somewhat centered. I think it could clear the draglink with some mods. If you could swing that alternator so it is up instead of down. that might work too. you would have to make another bracket coming off the top of the engine though. All in all, I think this swap is very doable. Do you have any welding equipment and a saw-zall. Anyway, good luck. I like the inventiveness of this build. [I too was told that I was an idiot when I installed a 500 inch caddy motor in my 75 ford pickup] I like to be different. My hats off to you sir!
 
I think that maybe you could get the engine to fit with the factory steer linkage if you could modify the oil pan a bit. Obviously the oil pickup would need to be modified too. the 4.0's have an oil pump the is somewhat centered. I think it could clear the draglink with some mods. If you could swing that alternator so it is up instead of down. that might work too. you would have to make another bracket coming off the top of the engine though. All in all, I think this swap is very doable. Do you have any welding equipment and a saw-zall. Anyway, good luck. I like the inventiveness of this build. [I too was told that I was an idiot when I installed a 500 inch caddy motor in my 75 ford pickup] I like to be different. My hats off to you sir!

Thanks for commenting and reading thru my thread. I am glad to report more work is going to be taking place next week.

As a result of a contract change at work, I am making use of 1 week of vacation next week before I loose the time (my new contract gains me 10 new days of vacation). I have started talking to AJE about their K-Member and due to re-financing and consolidation, I am hoping to purchase this soon.

To address some comments above. Regarding the Alternator location, by moving to a wrangler or newer Cherokee alternator brackets, I can relocate the Alt up by almost 4 inches (of course the new K-Member will resolve the other part of this). With the new K-Member I am planning to be using, I am also planning on buying the power steering rack.

I do have welding tools, but I don't trust my welding skills. I can tack weld enough so that I can call a pro to finish welding on my projects. This something I need to learn to improve my skill set.

John
 
Is the head different too? I got a 1999-up ram-tuned intake manifold for my 4.0 as an upgrade for about $125 shipped off eBay. From what I've read the HO heads are also much better than the Renix, if it were mine I'd just swap the whole top end. You are looking for power right? Lol :glasses7:

Yeah, the heads are different in in flow. But the late H.O. heads fit the renix engines. My first goal is to get the engine in and running. Then make the changes for updating as a H.O. era engine. There are late model heads which need to be avoided as they have a tendency to crack. Again, my first goal is to get the engine in and starting. After I got a stock engine in and running correctly, then I can make all the updates I would to a Jeep.
 
Its been quite a long time since my last post. But things are still moving on this project. I have had other priorities take place where this was put aside. Including prep for my oldest son's HS graduation and a father/son graduation project working on a 76 Datsun 280z.

As far as this project goes, and this thread, I am writing here today as I have something new to share.

This morning I purchased a AJE Suspension K-Member kit. Taking into advisement comments made earlier in this thread, I have spent a lot of time talking to the owner over the last year, as well as looking at other solutions, talking to those owners, and reading threads on this topic. I believe that I have made a sound decision and the issues which plagued the AJE company in the past have been worked out.

The K-Member is being sold to me with NO motor mounts. I will be building the motor mounts to be clamped on the K-Member with something like this roll cage tube clamp OD Tube Clamp

Using this method will allow me pull the engine out and swap in a new engine and not have to cut and weld new motor mounts to the K-Member.

The kit will include the following...
-K-Member
-Adjustable Upper and Lower Control arms
-Coil Over Shocks
-Power Steering Rack (15 to 1 ratio)
-Steering Arms to move steering forward of K-Member
-Loose Metal to build clamp on Motor Mount

I will be curious to see what I think about the race suspension kit with the control arms having adjustable Heim joints over bushings. But swapping over to bushing shouldn't be too hard and something I will look at if needed.

The control arm setup I went for is the late model Post 1972 stuff. I really want the 65 to 72 4 piston brakes, mainly cause they are specific for the year and model of my car. But the late model control arms will allow me to get a set of common spindles with 4 inch piston brakes to throw under the car and get it on the ground than try to locate the setup I want in a hurry. This also allows me to run the larger ball joints. I can have the earlier knuckles re drill to accept the bigger joints if I end up going that route later. I really have no interest in following the crowed running aftermarket 4 pistons like Wilwoods or SSBC. Much rather have a Mopar setup. I am not running enough power to need the really large stuff.

Delivery of the parts should be Mid June. As such this thread will be silent from me until the big day I get the parts in, at which point you can bet I will be posting pictures. I will be keeping an eye on this thread to respond when needed.

With the parts not coming in till mid June, this allows me time to get the 280-z out of the garage and make room in the middle of the garage for the barracuda to move back. Currently it has a wood furniture cart under each tire allowing me to push the car sideways against the wall. Cheap and Easy. $15 each and if one breaks run to Harbor Freight and get another one.

I am postponing the rear end swap for next summer. I think enough will have been accomplished if I can get the front end under it with a engine installed ready to mod the wiring harness and plan the ECU location.
 
Its been quite a long time since my last post. But things are still moving on this project. I have had other priorities take place where this was put aside. Including prep for my oldest son's HS graduation and a father/son graduation project working on a 76 Datsun 280z.

As far as this project goes, and this thread, I am writing here today as I have something new to share.

This morning I purchased a AJE Suspension K-Member kit. Taking into advisement comments made earlier in this thread, I have spent a lot of time talking to the owner over the last year, as well as looking at other solutions, talking to those owners, and reading threads on this topic. I believe that I have made a sound decision and the issues which plagued the AJE company in the past have been worked out.

The K-Member is being sold to me with NO motor mounts. I will be building the motor mounts to be clamped on the K-Member with something like this roll cage tube clamp OD Tube Clamp

Using this method will allow me pull the engine out and swap in a new engine and not have to cut and weld new motor mounts to the K-Member.

The kit will include the following...
-K-Member
-Adjustable Upper and Lower Control arms
-Coil Over Shocks
-Power Steering Rack (15 to 1 ratio)
-Steering Arms to move steering forward of K-Member
-Loose Metal to build clamp on Motor Mount

I will be curious to see what I think about the race suspension kit with the control arms having adjustable Heim joints over bushings. But swapping over to bushing shouldn't be too hard and something I will look at if needed.

The control arm setup I went for is the late model Post 1972 stuff. I really want the 65 to 72 4 piston brakes, mainly cause they are specific for the year and model of my car. But the late model control arms will allow me to get a set of common spindles with 4 inch piston brakes to throw under the car and get it on the ground than try to locate the setup I want in a hurry. This also allows me to run the larger ball joints. I can have the earlier knuckles re drill to accept the bigger joints if I end up going that route later. I really have no interest in following the crowed running aftermarket 4 pistons like Wilwoods or SSBC. Much rather have a Mopar setup. I am not running enough power to need the really large stuff.

Delivery of the parts should be Mid June. As such this thread will be silent from me until the big day I get the parts in, at which point you can bet I will be posting pictures. I will be keeping an eye on this thread to respond when needed.

With the parts not coming in till mid June, this allows me time to get the 280-z out of the garage and make room in the middle of the garage for the barracuda to move back. Currently it has a wood furniture cart under each tire allowing me to push the car sideways against the wall. Cheap and Easy. $15 each and if one breaks run to Harbor Freight and get another one.

I am postponing the rear end swap for next summer. I think enough will have been accomplished if I can get the front end under it with a engine installed ready to mod the wiring harness and plan the ECU location.


Good luck man, are you gonna be using stock style 73+ spindles?
 
Good luck man, are you gonna be using stock style 73+ spindles?

Short answer is yes. I am going to find a pair of 73+ A-Body spindles with 4 inch piston brake calipers to get the car back on the ground on tires. So when I bought the kit from AJE, I purchased with that in mind.

Long Term is I want to run some form of MOPAR multi piston caliper system. At this time, the only setup I know is the 65 thru 72 A-Body setup. This will require a earlier knuckle/spindle, and a changed steering arm.

If anyone knows of a MOPAR bolt on multi-piston brake setup which will fit the late model A-Body knuckle, please let me know.
 
Short answer is yes. I am going to find a pair of 73+ A-Body spindles with 4 inch piston brake calipers to get the car back on the ground on tires. So when I bought the kit from AJE, I purchased with that in mind.

Long Term is I want to run some form of MOPAR multi piston caliper system. At this time, the only setup I know is the 65 thru 72 A-Body setup. This will require a earlier knuckle/spindle, and a changed steering arm.

If anyone knows of a MOPAR bolt on multi-piston brake setup which will fit the late model A-Body knuckle, please let me know.


You could try wilwood, they have 2, 4 and 6 piston kits for mopars.
 
yeah, I know. But I am really wanting to stick with Mopar before looking at aftermarket.
Well aftermarket is gonna be your only choice for multiple piston brakes for the 73 and up spindles
The KH brake are the only multiple piston brakes mopar had for the a bodies, and those only fit 72 and older spindles.
 
Dukeboy, thanks for confirming.

Does anyone know if the 65 thru 72 spindles can be reamed to fit the 73+ upper ball joint? The real question is whether or not there is enough material up top to drill it out to fit?

John
 
-
Back
Top