Yep. Not doing the whole manifold vacuum deal though.
Totally agree !
Hey it's a learning process. You have to try things and see what works. I'm still learning. Here's My 2 Cents.
IMHO, Before you get to the springs,
if you had your dist. set up by him, take the initial timing spec. and the vacuum timing spec. that he gave you, and add them together. Set your initial there.
See if your starter kicks back, just like the book says and it's what Crackedback always says to do.
I don't know what motor you have for a total? But Don't drive your car until you Reset your mechanical, using your plate. Take your initial plus the mechanical you set it to, to get a total. A total for a 340 is near 35 degrees. Say 35 - [12 + 12] = 11 degrees mechanical.
Hook up the dist. to ported vacuum, forget the manifold vacuum just plug the port on your carb., and use your allen wrench adjustment, [in the vac can] for when it is to come in, [ at what vacuum]. Test, it should be about 50 degrees of timing with the vac can, for your Grand Total. Still thinking for a 340.
My experience with Don was good. When you are done doing it his way, you know a lot more about your ignition system. The white control box, that I bought from him is very good, although if you have a plain stock coil, you probably don't need his.
I have the book and if you are a beginner, it does help you set your basic idle settings. The T-slot, which is what AJ pushes , is the Big key for tuning you carb. Set your idle screw and don't touch it again. Use the secondary screw.
More initial at idle will give you a cooler running motor and the RPM'S.
Just toss out the , using Manifold vacuum for your dist and using too low of an initial.
And now you have Vacuum Advance at cruise. The way it was supposed to be.
Now you're on your way, and now you can experiment with the springs.
Like I said, Just my 2 cents. I hope I got it right ! LOL.
And watch out for the salesman, he'll sell you the whole store.
Hope this helps !
