Titanium connecting rods for sbm 416

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Erik Andersen

Erik Andersen

Putting ex drag car back to driver 69/GTS
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besides the price are they worth it for a street car? I have read that the 416 is rough on pistons because of the extra weight from being stroked. Is the Scat super light cranks any good also? My goal is titanium rods, super light crank, ported X heads, and a streetable solid roller cam for 500hp. Sound feasible?
 
it means i'm gonna sit back and listen to the answers .

dude you don't need titanium rods spend the cash on some good heads .
 
Actually I do believe the bob weight is lighter on the stroker. I could be wrong...

unless you plan on winding it up to 9k+ your money is much better spent on heads.
 
The last set I purchased (before our sanctioning body outlawed them) was around $5,000. If you're gonna dump that kinda coin into it go buy a real block and good heads. Not familiar with Scat cranks, but lighter is always better. Look to Bryant, Crower, ect if you want the best.
 
X2 spend the money on heads something in
the 280-320 cfm range plus roller cam wouldn't hurt either.
 
stroker pistons are lighter....just balanced a 410 with kb 744 pistons which are not the lightest...and scat I beam....bobweight is 1810 grams
 
70aarcuda said:
stroker pistons are lighter....just balanced a 410 with kb 744 pistons which are not the lightest...and scat I beam....bobweight is 1810 grams
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I am looking to have it rev up like the 340. Crower had rods for $4666.00 depending how much titanium is the day of purchase. I only want to spin up to 6500
 
Those super lite weight Scat cranks are nice,my buddy just stroked a poly with one and is building another with one something like 48 pounds:D:D
 
Erik Andersen said:
I am looking to have it rev up like the 340. Crower had rods for $4666.00 depending how much titanium is the day of purchase. I only want to spin up to 6500
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As most have said.........you're wasting your money........you are not pushing any power limits, nor are you pushing any rpm limits..........6500 rpm is not really a problem with a 4 inch crank......as an example Sonny Leonard of Sonny's Automotive Racing builds 1005 cube inch mountain motors with 5.875 inch strokes that spin 8000 rpm and he uses a steel rod.

Spend your money on lighter pistons, THAT can and will make ALOT of difference, alot cheaper.
Better heads....X's are cool (kinda) SELL THEM to some one who desperately feels THEY need them, you will have trouble making your power level with them at your stated displacement level.........back in "the day" it took alot of work to make 500hp with X heads in a 340......hp requires air flow, cubic inches requires even more.

To "rev up like a 340" is gonna be influenced ALOT by cam shaft, and cylinder head flow (here we are again)

Some of what you proposed seems to be based on it's WOW factor and not really thought out well.....WOW factor based on "stroker crank, titanium rods, X heads" bla, bla, bla doesn't do much..........WOW factor based on a well selected combination of parts that delivers the goods at a reasonable cost is far and away MUCH better. Goin' fast on a low budget is MUCH more WOW.
 
Why 273 and 340 is considered revver's is head flow to cid ratio. 440 is a heavy beast inside and have no problem revving 6500 rpm. If your professional racing with very tight competition very light internals with help spin up quicker for an edge.

If you want your engine to rev spend money on making it breath (hp).
 
The reason I want to so light is to rev as fast as the 340 and longevity of the engine. I don't want to tear it down every year. I am open to switching heads. I didn't know if it was worth the money to put into the heads. They came stock so, I am open to ideas of heads to use on the stroker. I plan on going with a solid roller cam. I know I will have to adjust valve once a year. I only plan on about 5k miles a year.
 
spend 5k more on heads etc for a stroker roller motor and you can run low 10s if done right. Do you plan on caging it ?
forget the titanium rods idea and focus on building up the chassis , drivetrain etc....believe me you will spend plenty of money the way it is.
If you have unlimited funds just pay one of the gurus here to build you an 8 sec car and go get your racing license.
Let someone that already knows the ropes design and build it right the first time.

I am totally serious.
 
Erik Andersen said:
The reason I want to so light is to rev as fast as the 340 and longevity of the engine. I don't want to tear it down every year. I am open to switching heads. I didn't know if it was worth the money to put into the heads. They came stock so, I am open to ideas of heads to use on the stroker. I plan on going with a solid roller cam. I know I will have to adjust valve once a year. I only plan on about 5k miles a year.
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2 questions:

1. What makes you think titanium rods will give you better longevity?
2. Why do you think you would have to tear the engine down every year; particularly if you only drive 5000 miles a year?
 
410 ci ,6 years ,28k miles ,519hp /520tq ,Scat 9000 alloy crank , I beam rods, forged aluminum pistons , partially ported RHS / IndyX heads , hydraulic roller cam built by ImmEngines for just over $8k us at the time .
Soooo you want to spend $5k+ on titanium rods , why ?
 
PS the 8K included carb to pan
msd distributer and wires
Aluminum water pump
dyno break in and tuning
box steel engine stand and wooden shipping crate
Buy from someone who knows what they are building and you will get exactly what you ask for , deal with fantasy builders you will end up broke and disappointed .
 
JBurch said:
2 questions:

1. What makes you think titanium rods will give you better longevity?
2. Why do you think you would have to tear the engine down every year; particularly if you only drive 5000 miles a year?
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(1). Lighter reciprocating weight. From some of the ready I've done on the 416's is that the pistons wear out quicker from the heavier connecting rods. The pistons are short so it is harder on them.
(2). Just a figure of speech. I only want to build the engine once and not have to rebuild it after a couple years. I would like it to last 10-15 yrs.
 
I think you got rod ratio mixed with weight.
When you stroke your engine you from a favourable 1.85 or 1.71 depending if starting from a 340(273/318) or 360 to 1.53:1 with a 4" which is considered on the low side.

This ratio will cause more friction (slight loss of hp) and bore wear. It was a worry that these engine would have a short life cause of this when 4" stroke first became popular. Stroking brought this worry with all makes and brands of engines. Buts been proving over time (Last decade or so) that it was a lot of worrying for nothing. Not that it doesn't have some truth to it but in practice it's of little concern.

The standard forged bottom is more than enough for what you want.
 
A 340 will make 500 hp around 6500 rpm
but will need a decent amount of stall and gear to work. The reason to go stroker is to bring these down to more street friendly specs. Or to make more power at the same rpm in this case 6500 rpm. Which you gonna need pretty good flowing heads along with intake and exhaust $$$$ but your lucky your now saving on rods.

I'd look for a good builder and come up with a game plan to fit your needs. There's a few on here.
 
You couldn't tell the difference between a 340 and a stroker side by side with how fast they rev. Ain't happenin. You're reading all the wrong info.
 
RustyRatRod said:
You couldn't tell the difference between a 340 and a stroker side by side with how fast they rev. Ain't happenin. You're reading all the wrong info.
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Thank you all for the information. Real world builds and reading up stuff on the internet in articles is why I posted my questions here. I only want to build decent engine that will last quite awhile.
 
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