SLANT 6 timing issues , In need of a Mechanic , los Angeles Area!

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Kevinmatt

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hey, i just got my slant 6 rebuilt, the firing order is completely off ! I think the timing chain is causing the issue . In need of help ! Please message me back . Thank you.
 
Firing order is determined at the distributor cap (basically). The timing chain will determine valve timing. Anyway, check your distributor before you start tearing into the engine.
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Yeah, there's a big difference between the timing being off, and the firing order being off. Which is it? All inline sixes have the same firing order 1=5=3=6=2=4, the old
school memory method was "Too Young,Too Old,Just Right", but I disagree w/that..LOL. More like "Too Young,Just Right,Just Old Enough To Know How To Cause More
Trouble"!! Please give Us more background on Your ride, recent work performed, etc., and what precisely is the issue.
 
Yeah, there's a big difference between the timing being off, and the firing order being off. Which is it? All inline sixes have the same firing order 1=5=3=6=2=4, the old
school memory method was "Too Young,Too Old,Just Right", but I disagree w/that..LOL. More like "Too Young,Just Right,Just Old Enough To Know How To Cause More
Trouble"!! Please give Us more background on Your ride, recent work performed, etc., and what precisely is the issue.

Ok i see what you guys are saying , My car is 67 dodge dart , i got it from the second owner. At the time of purchase , the engine was smoking like a train lol. I drove the car about 30 miles and everything ran fine. But like i said the engine was smoking bad , so i had it rebuilt . After the rebuilt , we installed the engine back in the dart . I did Input that exact firing order and the first issue that came up was low spark. So then the engine did not want to crank order or start. So i ended up finding an mechanic that used to work on old cars. He told me " i bet i can make your car run " , so i said "ok, do what ever it takes" . He ended up taking my distributor one night and came the next morning. HE said " i Modified your distributor". So we installed the distributor back in and it fired right up !!! What how ?! I still have NO clue what he did to it. The Dart Runs and Drives now BUT i Feel like something is still not right with it , i feel like the car has no Power and Sputter a lot .When i try to hit the gas hard , the dart just dies . I'm thinking maybe my carburetor is going bad. The next step is buying a new carburetor and if the dart does not run smooth after that , i have not clue what to do next.
 
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Firing order is determined at the distributor cap (basically). The timing chain will determine valve timing. Anyway, check your distributor before you start tearing into the engine.View attachment 1715115095

Ok i see what you guys are saying , My car is 67 dodge dart , i got it from the second owner. At the time of purchase , the engine was smoking like a train lol. I drove the car about 30 miles and everything ran fine. But like i said the engine was smoking bad , so i had it rebuilt . After the rebuilt , we installed the engine back in the dart . I did Input that exact firing order and the first issue that came up was low spark. So then the engine did not want to crank order or start. So i ended up finding an mechanic that used to work on old cars. He told me " i bet i can make your car run " , so i said "ok, do what ever it takes" . He ended up taking my distributor one night and came the next morning. HE said " i Modified your distributor". So we installed the distributor back in and it fired right up !!! What how ?! I still have NO clue what he did to it. The Dart Runs and Drives now BUT i Feel like something is still not right with it , i feel like the car has no Power and Sputter a lot .When i try to hit the gas hard , the dart just dies . I'm thinking maybe my carburetor is going bad. The next step is buying a new carburetor and if the dart does not run smooth after that , i have not clue what to do next.
 
Holley 1920? Rebuild that thing over a lunch hour. Kits are like 17 bucks, still at autozone but its a special oder, get it in before 10AM and they may have it by 3PM. Stalling sounds like a accelerator pump issue and maybe a vacuum leak to boot. do you have a vacuum gauge? Pull the line off the distributor, plug it and see if drives any better. Where are you located? Also valve lash plays a huge part in a slants driveablity...PM me.
 
Tune-up parts and technique suggestions in this thread. Carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted here for free download.

Before anything else, get the three books described in this thread.
 
Ok i see what you guys are saying , My car is 67 dodge dart , i got it from the second owner. At the time of purchase , the engine was smoking like a train lol. I drove the car about 30 miles and everything ran fine. But like i said the engine was smoking bad , so i had it rebuilt . After the rebuilt , we installed the engine back in the dart . I did Input that exact firing order and the first issue that came up was low spark. So then the engine did not want to crank order or start. So i ended up finding an mechanic that used to work on old cars. He told me " i bet i can make your car run " , so i said "ok, do what ever it takes" . He ended up taking my distributor one night and came the next morning. HE said " i Modified your distributor". So we installed the distributor back in and it fired right up !!! What how ?! I still have NO clue what he did to it. The Dart Runs and Drives now BUT i Feel like something is still not right with it , i feel like the car has no Power and Sputter a lot .When i try to hit the gas hard , the dart just dies . I'm thinking maybe my carburetor is going bad. The next step is buying a new carburetor and if the dart does not run smooth after that , i have not clue what to do next.
You should be checking the fuel pressure and condition......................then if that looks fine move on, and I mean fuel pressure while driving not just sitting there. Be safe
when doing this, take the time to make well placed and secure connections to Tee into the pump outlet, of course You changed the filter already....right?
 
I think you should also get a timing light and do some reading or find someone who can show you waht to do.

Many simple checks, and many mechanics i wouldnt put near a distributor or a carburetor....and its a simple 1 barrel. These easy fixes will drain your wallet if you keep throwing money at mechanics.
 
I will be buying a new carburetor next week, and i will tell you guys what happens after i install it. Ill keep you guys posted.
 
Holley 1920? Rebuild that thing over a lunch hour. Kits are like 17 bucks, still at autozone but its a special oder, get it in before 10AM and they may have it by 3PM. Stalling sounds like a accelerator pump issue and maybe a vacuum leak to boot. do you have a vacuum gauge? Pull the line off the distributor, plug it and see if drives any better. Where are you located? Also valve lash plays a huge part in a slants driveablity...PM me.
yes its a 1920 and i rebuilt it twice this year.
 
Just to let you know, most of those reman carbs these days are junk, might get lucky. But dont throw your old one away or turn it in for a core charge. Did you buy or rent a timing light yet? Throwing parts at it seems silly if the timing isnt proper.
 
The economizer valve (in the bowl) is not included in the rebuild kit and can gum up.
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The smoking sounds more like it had a carburetor problem. You shouldn't have paid to have the engine rebuilt without first checking the compression, which may have been fine. Indeed, you can check by turning the engine over by pulling on the fan belt. But water under the bridge now. My first car was a 1969 Dart, bought in 1976. I was a dumb college kid then and didn't have relatives that knew cars, and there was no internet then. Don't believe stories that men knew cars in those days. When I was young, most didn't even change or add oil.

Like you, I had the engine rebuilt after a perhaps minor problem (oil pressure lamp on, probably just gunk on the screen since went away for 6 months). The car never idled smooth and often died with a little accelerator, and much worse on hot days. No mechanic could solve it. I had a "valve job", then rebuilt engine, changed intake, finally whole new long block, and it still idled rough. Finally tried a 4th Holley 1920 carburetor and it purr'ed like a kitten and no longer stumbled when leaving a red light. Many rebuilt 1920's are bad, having clogged internal metering blocks that aren't rebuilt. Find a guy who rebuilds carburetors and is recommended, or change to the later Holley 1945, and report back. Or, read-up on the Super-Six 2 bbl intake/carb for more power, or the 4 bbl intakes. Since spending money anyway, you might want to upscale.
 
I'm in North Orange County(Fullerton). I'll be around on Saturday if you want to come by. I'm no expert, but we just put a timing chain in my Son's '64 225 so that stuff is pretty fresh in my mind. Sounds like you might have a combination of things(dist. 180 out, timing off a tooth or so, carb issues). Have you pulled the timing cover to check if the dots are lined up?? Oh, and what COLOR smoke? It matters.
 
I'm in North Orange County(Fullerton). I'll be around on Saturday if you want to come by. I'm no expert, but we just put a timing chain in my Son's '64 225 so that stuff is pretty fresh in my mind. Sounds like you might have a combination of things(dist. 180 out, timing off a tooth or so, carb issues). Have you pulled the timing cover to check if the dots are lined up?? Oh, and what COLOR smoke? It matters.

I believe timing is completely off and I rebuilt the carb twice already .
No smoke color .
I live in Highland Park Ca . 6 miles south of Pasadena CA.
 
The smoking sounds more like it had a carburetor problem. You shouldn't have paid to have the engine rebuilt without first checking the compression, which may have been fine. Indeed, you can check by turning the engine over by pulling on the fan belt. But water under the bridge now. My first car was a 1969 Dart, bought in 1976. I was a dumb college kid then and didn't have relatives that knew cars, and there was no internet then. Don't believe stories that men knew cars in those days. When I was young, most didn't even change or add oil.

Like you, I had the engine rebuilt after a perhaps minor problem (oil pressure lamp on, probably just gunk on the screen since went away for 6 months). The car never idled smooth and often died with a little accelerator, and much worse on hot days. No mechanic could solve it. I had a "valve job", then rebuilt engine, changed intake, finally whole new long block, and it still idled rough. Finally tried a 4th Holley 1920 carburetor and it purr'ed like a kitten and no longer stumbled when leaving a red light. Many rebuilt 1920's are bad, having clogged internal metering blocks that aren't rebuilt. Find a guy who rebuilds carburetors and is recommended, or change to the later Holley 1945, and report back. Or, read-up on the Super-Six 2 bbl intake/carb for more power, or the 4 bbl intakes. Since spending money anyway, you might want to upscale.

Crazy! That you went through all of that .
I already rebuilt the carb twice and still leaks.
Would you recommend to buy a remanufactured 1920 from Summit racing or or JEGS ?
 
Just to let you know, most of those reman carbs these days are junk, might get lucky. But dont throw your old one away or turn it in for a core charge. Did you buy or rent a timing light yet? Throwing parts at it seems silly if the timing isnt proper.
I rebuilt my carb twice already and it started to develop a leak a few weeks back.
Damm I was really thinking of getting a Reman carb for summit racing or JEGS .
The last time I checked the timing, if I could remember it was landing on “after 5 “ . I’m no expert mechanic but I tried to adjust it to 0 but when I did the motor did not want to start.
That makes me think my timing chain is off a bit and my carb is really bad .
 
Or the damper has slipped. Your 5* retarded timing may not actually be that. Who knows. You can check with a piston stop
 
IIRC, the crank key points to cylinder centerline when TDC.

timing-033-jpg.jpg
 
You probably have the firing order incorrect the car will smoke if it is when reving and will sputter.
 
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