Electronic ignition upgrade

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Mopar Licensed Electronic Distributor Conversion Kit...
Do they still make this for a 225? That's what he said he has. Good call tho that will run for years with no
problem.
I did that conversion on my 65 cuda years ago and on my Powerwagon and never looked back.
 
Parts store 73 electronic distributor
Favorite ECU
Mopar Performance harness.
Bolt on and go.

I have a buddy with a 383 in a '63 Dodge 440 and he'd like to add electronic ignition. What "parts store" distributor would he shop for? I took a quick look at RockAuto and did not see a 383 listed. Would a distributor for a 440 work for him? I'm OK with the ECU & wiring. What do you think/advise?
 
I have a buddy with a 383 in a '63 Dodge 440 and he'd like to add electronic ignition. What "parts store" distributor would he shop for? I took a quick look at RockAuto and did not see a 383 listed. Would a distributor for a 440 work for him? I'm OK with the ECU & wiring. What do you think/advise?
440 dizzy will not work in a 383 as a 440 is a rb block. A 400 dizzy will fit a 383. Mike
 
and the advance will almost always be less ideal because a parts store distributor will have some random or generic curve. Depending on whats there now it could be a step backward. Electronic is only better if the timing is correct for the motor.
 
and the advance will almost always be less ideal because a parts store distributor will have some random or generic curve. Depending on whats there now it could be a step backward. Electronic is only better if the timing is correct for the motor.

??SO?? RECURVE IT. Crackedback and others have posted a chart that "someone made" showing approximate slot lengths / degrees advance

FBO makes a kit which several on here have bought with an "advance limiter plate" which makes DIY "no special tools" recurves easy.

Many current AFTERMARKET distributors are less than ideal advance curves, in fact a couple of people market shorter curve limiter bushings for MSD BECAUSE MSD DOES NOT PHECKING OFF THEM THEMSELVES
 
I have plenty of slant cams in different degrees if needed, I definitely agree the new points are terrible no where near enough spring pressure and the condensers have a high fail rate also when they get warm I try to just use old stock when I can find it, did get lucky and bought out a old store of its mopar stock, mostly delco have not had one set of points under 20 IN LB yet and not one capacitor fail yet either. Blue streak and accel seem to make the best new stuff from what I have seen but getting harder to find.
 
I do like the idea of the FBO plates but it s only drawback is it cannot give you more advance than what the cam plate in there has now. There are a ton of good aftermarket distribs around, just have to do the research and keep away from the plug and play imports with the chrome housing on the side complete junk. Any chance you have the number from your distributor I can look up and see what the curve should be and also if it is the right application if you want. I actually run a Mallory dual point on my 440 because you can adjust the advance any way that you want and I need zero at start up or I keep breaking the starter noses off the mini starters because of kickback when hot.
 
Hey I have hundreds of distributors and tons of parts if any one needs something, don't even ask it all started with a sun machine to flip used it then it just kind of went from there!:rofl:
 
??SO?? RECURVE IT. Crackedback and others have posted a chart that "someone made" showing approximate slot lengths / degrees advance

FBO makes a kit which several on here have bought with an "advance limiter plate" which makes DIY "no special tools" recurves easy.

Many current AFTERMARKET distributors are less than ideal advance curves, in fact a couple of people market shorter curve limiter bushings for MSD BECAUSE MSD DOES NOT PHECKING OFF THEM THEMSELVES
'cause a guy that doesn't know what I wrote, won't know they need to do what you wrote.
 
I have to disagree with RustyRatRod : a good electronic ignition system is a large improvement over points! A points-condenser ignition system does an inferior job of lighting every cylinder/every time, and begins deteriorating the instant you hit the starter after putting in a new set of points. That is why the auto industry began working to abandon points as soon as there were better options available. Transistorized aftermarket systems began appearing in the early-mid '60s, and Chrysler offered their first such system as an option to fleet buyers in '66…over half a century ago. So "Aw, hell, points have been around for a century!" is true, but…well, go read and watch this.

DusterIdiot over on slantsix.org is the man to see about custom-recurve work on Slant-6 distributors.

Very true on the points systems. Also the only reason for dual points was to make up for the weak spark of a single pount setup. This was a stopgap crutch before high energy electronic setups. GM did it right with their design of HEI by ditching the ballast when they went electronic as it was no longer needed to prevent point arcing IMHO. Even fords duraspark electronic remained hobbled by a ballast.
 
440 dizzy will not work in a 383 as a 440 is a rb block. A 400 dizzy will fit a 383. Mike
If you cant find a 400 dizzy, though i dont know why you wouldent be able to, mopar made a kit that allowed the use of an RB 440 426 dizzy fit the B 383 400 block. It consisted of a spacer, and a longer clamp with bolt, but if you can find a B engine dizzy your better off. Mancini racing has remade that out of production adaptor kit.

Screenshot_20180317-125009.png
 
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Very true on the points systems. Also the only reason for dual points was to make up for the weak spark of a single pount setup. This was a stopgap crutch before high energy electronic setups. GM did it right with their design of HEI by ditching the ballast when they went electronic as it was no longer needed to prevent point arcing IMHO. Even fords duraspark electronic remained hobbled by a ballast.
I'll disagree with both of you. Electronic's original advantage was reduced maint, most important with fleet buyers. Dual points advantage is about being effective over a wider rpm range. Meeting emmissions was a big driver in the adoption of various electronic systems in the 70s. They remain more consistant over time and can be designed to help light off a good burn under more difficult conditions, such as added exhaust dilution.
 
That's why you buy the FBO kit, and use the internet.
Don's disk is clever and well done. It could even be better, but Don only only has his own way. Anyway, that alone won't get anyone the factory curve. It can be useful when setting up a hot rod.
 
If you cant find a 400 dizzy, though i dont know why you wouldent be able to, mopar made a kit that allowed the use of an RB 440 426 dizzy fit the B 383 400 block. It consisted of a spacer, and a longer clamp with bolt, but if you can find a B engine dizzy your better off. Mancini racing has remade that out of production adaptor kit.

View attachment 1715153759
They work but then the oiling has to splash up higher.
 
Dudes....What the heck ?
Dons kit, Dons disk, FBO advance limiter plate, FBO plates.....They are for a V8 !!!!!!!!!!!!
The original poster has a Slant Six !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Why are you shoving V8 info down his throat, when he has a 6 cylinder ?
 
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Dudes....What the heck ?
Dons kit, Dons disk, FBO advance limiter plate, FBO plates.....They are for a V8 !!!!!!!!!!!!
The original poster has a Slant Six !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Why are you shoving V8 info down his throat, when he has a 6 cylinder ?
See post #29 - there was a hijack mid-thread! :lol:
 
I did always HATE setting points/ timing on slants. They were always "dark and oily" down there LOL
Oh, geeze, man, give yourself a break! It's masochistic to do the points in a Slant-6 without pulling the distributor.

Yeah, not much fun. I was always afraid I'd drop the screw for either the points or the condenser inside the dist. Fortunately, never did.
 
Yeah, not much fun. I was always afraid I'd drop the screw for either the points or the condenser inside the dist. Fortunately, never did.
Cotton balls, tweezers, and a magnet on a stick. Stick the cotton balls in where the screws are likely to fall in if dropped, a magnet to fish em out, and a pair of tweezers to pull out the cotton balls when done. Thats how i used to do that job on my old 66 coronet w a slant 6
 
... 383 ... electronic ignition ... distributor would he shop for?
Not parts store, but there is a Ningbo electronic distributor for a 383 on ebay ~$60 (Skip White and others). Add an e-core coil for $20 for hotter spark. Many here use them fine, though some posts by mostly Chevy guys who nix them. Lube the shaft before installing. Eventually, oil splash will maintain lube.
 
quote "
Dudes....What the heck ?
Dons kit, Dons disk, FBO advance limiter plate, FBO plates.....They are for a V8 !!!!!!!!!!!!
The original poster has a Slant Six !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Why are you shoving V8 info down his throat, when he has a 6 cylinder ?Quote
Really that's news to me we've been putting then in /6 distributors for 15 years

Quote "Don's disk is clever and well done. It could even be better, but Don only only has his own way. Anyway, that alone won't get anyone the factory curve. It can be useful when setting up a hot rod."

Better? 2* increments isn't enough, tell me what to change and I'll look over your suggestions and see if it can be done and if there's any advantage. Now they are at 0-10-12-14-16-18* setting the initial at 34-24-22-20-18-16* have you tried one of them? What could you not achieve?

Quote "If you cant find a 400 dizzy, though i dont know why you wouldent be able to, mopar made a kit that allowed the use of an RB 440 426 dizzy fit the B 383 400 block."

We have been making 383/400 distributors out of 440's for years. We have tooling and a CnC program on our mill that cuts the shaft and then re-cuts the spade to make a perfect 383/400 distributor. In our new line of 5 YEAR warranty billet distributors we have the 383/400 available. Some manufacturers ALL in China don't make the 383/400 because the volume isn't big enough to run there junk, they just want the common stuff, big volume, low quality, 30 day warranty.

Quote: "I do like the idea of the FBO plates but it s only drawback is it cannot give you more advance than what the cam plate in there has now."

This statement has me really confused? What timing numbers are you trying to achieve? I'll tell you how to get it.

Quote: "and the advance will almost always be less ideal because a parts store distributor will have some random or generic curve"

They have NO CURVE rebuilds are exactly as the same as the vehicle they cam out of. New Chinese distributors usually have 23-30* of mechanical advance if it even works. The vac cans are usually non-adjustable even though they have the hex on the can body (SAE Standard ID) they cheat you all by using a $1.70 can made by the owners Brother-in-Law and they are for EMISSIONS engines NOT Pre-computer vehicles.

Quote: "I have tried several of them as well. Not a one was worth 50 cents. Three of them in one car!"

Has anybody ever thought that maybe a 30-90 day warranty or ZERO warranty like the Famous "Orange Box" could possibly mean that they might be selling Junk! Why do people spend their money on that stuff??? If the manufacturer will only give it 30 days then why should you expect anything different?
CHEAPER is very seldom, if ever better.....
Warranty duration should be a strong indication of quality, think before you buy.


Quote: "That's good, because I see stuff like this about Skip White's quality"

There is nothing sold in this industry with lower quality than his stuff, except maybe Spectra Distributors not really sure he even exists sounds more like a marketing tool than a person. Has Anyone actually met him?
 
I'll throw my 2 cents in. You're not gonna add power to that slant (or really anything) as long as the point type ignition is in GOOD SHAPE.

So, why not learn the points system, discover how it works, learn to tune it. Get it in good condition. Points have been around for a hundred years in millions of vehicles.

In all honesty, electronic ignitions ain't "much" of an upgrade from a good workin points ignition.

That way, you actually learn somethin, fix "WHAT'S THERE" and spend less money.

I don't know.......sounds pretty good to me.

I would love to have you in my shop and argue that statement with you, are you still waiting for them to perfect the color TV before you abandon your old round screen black and white one?
You can't even buy good points anymore they're all Made in China and the contacts are now plated about .002 thick not solid tungsten any longer, so where do you even buy good points sets? For every .001 of wear you will retard timing by 1* they last about 1500 miles and they're done. Ever measured the output under load on a points system?
 
Better: As in a version to limit the bottom of the curve instead of the top.
 
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