New engine issues

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Ok so i rechecked with my machine shop guy who built my short block. He said that he got a performance rebuilt kit for my engine that included 9.1 flat top pistons with no valve relief grooves bored the 318 30 over ! He degreed the cam with a degree wheel so all of that is taken care of and didn't need any off set crank pin or multi angled crank sprocket ? The engine has stock rods and crank. The edelbrock carb is a stock 600 cfm 4 barrel. All ports have been gasket matched on intake and manifolds so no obstructions it has High flow dual exhaust.Brand new mopar performance racing distributor with advanced curv . Heads : stock with light porting and valve job. Performance: valve springs ,lifters,push rods so no issues with valves opening and closing! The timing right now is only set up to start and let the engine idle . I don't know what else to say or ask?
So the problem is it will idle but when you give it gas it dies? Correct?
You need a timing light to check the initial timing. If that is ok id start at the carb. Is the carb new rebuilt? Has it been tested on another engine? If it were my engine id try and find a known working carb. Another thing it could be the spacer those spacers can leak. Or it could be an intake leak.
 
Hello, is there black smoke coming out of the exaust when it is running? if so check your float level and/or your needle and seat.
 
I'll get a spray bottle and while the engine is running I'll squirt around the carb and spacer plate and the intake to see if idle changes. I'll take the carb back off and tear it down and flush and backflush it and check floats etc.
 
I'll get a spray bottle and while the engine is running I'll squirt around the carb and spacer plate and the intake to see if idle changes. I'll take the carb back off and tear it down and flush and backflush it and check floats etc.
This will be easier without taking it apart, are you getting a squirt of gas when you pump the gas pedal? Like is the accelerator pump working?
 
P.S. - Don't pre-oil and engine by turning it over with the starter. Your rotating the camshaft and all the components. Either use a primer shaft in the oil pump or just start it.
 
P.S. - Don't pre-oil and engine by turning it over with the starter. Your rotating the camshaft and all the components. Either use a primer shaft in the oil pump or just start it.
My finger was hovering over the agree button until you said just start it? I would say either use a prime Shaft or don't start it!?
 
O I almost forgot someone one here was asking me about metering jets and springs. As far as I know they are stock one that came in the edelbrock 600 ? I rotated the engine with no plugs and only the starter hooked up till my after market oil gauge pumped up to 70 psi cold . I will tear carb apart and inspect the numbers on jets and rods etc. The engine after fully warmed up has 50-53 psi oil pressure. Every thing on the engine is new from the performance harmonic balancer down to the spark plugs. So it's got to be a carb or timing=distributor issue?
 
Hollister, MO elevation is 722' above sea level
Well when you go through the carburetor it should have a stock calibration in it hopefully. if all that checks out then you should be fine. If the carburetor hasn't been looked at then you don't know. The last guy I heard talk about his Edelbrock said something he heard about taking the front Jets and putting them in the back and putting the back jets in the front or something like that and you just can't trust anything unless you see it yourself. Yes that's a good idea to take the carb apart and make sure everything's where it should be. And absolutely make sure it's squirting out those two front little squirters when you push on the gas. That could be completely it.
If it's a 1406 carburetor it should be just fine with a stock calibration at least to start with at a lower elevation. I doubt if it will be a Max performance effort kind of carburetor but it should run great once it's tuned to correctly.
 
Ok so what does that mean as far as carburetor/ timing ? It's not my goal to sound like a smartass but this a new concept as far as elevation and carbration adjustments
 
Ok so what does that mean as far as carburetor/ timing ? It's not my goal to sound like a smartass but this a new concept as far as elevation and carbration adjustments
personally I wasn't sure of your elevation. I had a 1406 600 CFM Edelbrock here at about 500 ft. I drove it to my son's house in Colorado at over 5000 feet and it sure didn't run the same. We had to put smaller Jets and smaller metering rods and bigger metering rods actually.
 
They use AMS oil for the mopar engine shoot out in mopar muscle magazine AND oil is synthetic.

Yes, they may use synthetic AMS oil for the engine shoot out in the magazine competition, but I can almost guarantee the engines used in the competition were not broken in using synthetic oil. I'll also bet most - if not all - of those "shoot out" engines used roller cams rather than flat tappet cams.
You need to break in flat tappet cams using oil with sufficient amounts of zinc in order to keep the lobes from going "flat". IMO, You should also continue using either oil with zinc or use zinc additives with flat tappet cams.
 
Before I started my engine and primed it I put a WIX filter on and 2 bottles of comp cam = cam break in oil with the Zink in it and 10w40 mobil1 synthetic oil
 
reverse the polarity on the magnetic pickup leads on the distributor and see if the motor runs better.
 
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