Ignition Upgrade

-

68 Coronet RT

68 GTS # 508 in Registry
Joined
Nov 5, 2015
Messages
385
Reaction score
144
Location
Upstate New York
Thinking about upgrading my ignition system ( distributor ) it is the electronic distributor now but not sure how old it is. I really don't plan on taking the car to the strip so I can't see spending big bucks on a MSD. Would like something to just plug in and go. Do I stay with the Mopar Performance Distributor or something else. Are the HEI distributors better than the stock replacement's ?
 
Is it broke ?
If no, don't fix it.
I would stick with the factory ignition.
 
I'll second what Johnny D said above. Now, you could optimize your advance curve. Most MP dist have too much centrifugal advance, so good initial advance of 10-12* ends up w 39* or more total and pinging. Find someone who's good on adjusting the curve for your car - compression,weight, gearing, intended use, etc.
 
Thinking about upgrading my ignition system ( distributor ) it is the electronic distributor now but not sure how old it is. I really don't plan on taking the car to the strip so I can't see spending big bucks on a MSD. Would like something to just plug in and go. Do I stay with the Mopar Performance Distributor or something else. Are the HEI distributors better than the stock replacement's ?

Is it broke ?
If no, don't fix it.
I would stick with the factory ignition.

I'll second what Johnny D said above. Now, you could optimize your advance curve. Most MP dist have too much centrifugal advance, so good initial advance of 10-12* ends up w 39* or more total and pinging. Find someone who's good on adjusting the curve for your car - compression,weight, gearing, intended use, etc.

I agree with both of these guy's, but with a twist.
Both change it and don't.:D
Seriously, for about 75 bucks you can get a brand new factory replacement distributor from just about any parts place.
Then put ONE spring from the advance spring kit (from Holley or even Autozone) in place of the heavy spring on the weights and the adjustable limiter plate from www.4secondsflat.com (FBO). (set the plate to 16 degrees as it has varied slot that are numbered)
Set your initial to 16 as well and you have a 32 degree total advance.
You can sneak the initial up a little at a time if you want later and see how it feels about it.

Get the HHR688 ignition module and coil from FBO also and you'll have a great high energy ignition. (It's a direct fit to your existing wiring) AND has a built in digital rev limiter.
That's one hell of an upgrade that is worth every penny.

Just doing the new distributor with the advance springs and limit plate will "brighten" the motor up some performance wise, as you can run about 10-12 degrees initial advance, mechanical advance will come in around 2,500 rpm, and the mechanical advance is limited to whatever you set the advance plate for. the motor will feel like it's working less because it is.
It should get a bit better fuel mileage as another side effect of being able to run more advance at lower rpm's.
 
Last edited:
Anybody ever crack open an FBO control box and see whats inside? I noticed it comes with a ballast eliminator jumper.
 
The Mopar electronic ignition system is a good one. If it's workin, I would be careful of what I called an "upgrade".
 
The Mopar electronic ignition system is a good one. If it's workin, I would be careful of what I called an "upgrade".
Totally agree with Rob some of the "new" upgrades are junk. Mopar has a great system just needs to be tuned to your application.
 
I agree with everything above. It is pretty hard to beat a factory style electronic distributor in every way, with the mods mentioned above. If you dont want to spend money on the advance limit plate you can just weld up the advance slots and file them to length, if you search advance slot length in fabo you will find the different dimensions for different amounts of mechanical advance. You basically want less mechanical advance which allows you to run more initial timing.

As a side note, make sure that your vacuum advance diaphragm isn't ruptured (suck on it, if it acts like a straw with the end open it is ruptured), and despite what some will say make sure that the advance diaphragm is hooked up, preferably to ported not manifold vacuum. Vacuum advance helps fuel economy and promotes better combustion which lengthens the life of your rings and cylinder walls.
 
Anybody ever crack open an FBO control box and see whats inside? I noticed it comes with a ballast eliminator jumper.

I have seen the inside of one, but can't remember where.
They are made in the USA, but I think some of it is farmed out to Mexico but I can't remember which part. (the billet cases maybe?)

The owner of FBO (Don) races a 66 Barracuda and took King of the track at Bandimere speedway Sportsman NHRA last year with the ignition I suggested.

Pretty hard to beat this deal.
Upgrade your ignition system to our HRR688 Ignition Box and Coil Kit and you'll get the J685 Limiter Plate or the MSD style Limiter Bushing kit Included at No Charge - Specify Mopar or MSD distributor when ordering.
 
I agree with everything above. It is pretty hard to beat a factory style electronic distributor in every way, with the mods mentioned above. If you dont want to spend money on the advance limit plate you can just weld up the advance slots and file them to length, if you search advance slot length in fabo you will find the different dimensions for different amounts of mechanical advance. You basically want less mechanical advance which allows you to run more initial timing.

As a side note, make sure that your vacuum advance diaphragm isn't ruptured (suck on it, if it acts like a straw with the end open it is ruptured), and despite what some will say make sure that the advance diaphragm is hooked up, preferably to ported not manifold vacuum. Vacuum advance helps fuel economy and promotes better combustion which lengthens the life of your rings and cylinder walls.
I agree with your post except on the limiter disc. If you cant spend a paltry $25 shipped for a nice timing advance disc like FBO offers, then what else are you cheapening up on. This is a lot better, and faster than welding and filing slots on the timer assembly. Whats your time worth. Personally i would prefer to NOT weld up and file out the slots. Then every time you want to change it, you have to weld and file. No thanks. I got better things to do with my time.
 
I agree with your post except on the limiter disc. If you cant spend a paltry $25 shipped for a nice timing advance disc like FBO offers, then what else are you cheapening up on. This is a lot better, and faster than welding and filing slots on the timer assembly. Whats your time worth. Personally i would prefer to NOT weld up and file out the slots. Then every time you want to change it, you have to weld and file. No thanks. I got better things to do with my time.
You are correct, I just prefer doing my own home brewed mods rather than buying parts and bolting them together. Also being in Canada, and with my car budget taking a back seat to other priorities, the $25 USD plus exchange and international shipping turns into closer to $50 CDN for me.
 
I agree with everything above. It is pretty hard to beat a factory style electronic distributor in every way, with the mods mentioned above. If you dont want to spend money on the advance limit plate you can just weld up the advance slots and file them to length, if you search advance slot length in fabo you will find the different dimensions for different amounts of mechanical advance. You basically want less mechanical advance which allows you to run more initial timing.

As a side note, make sure that your vacuum advance diaphragm isn't ruptured (suck on it, if it acts like a straw with the end open it is ruptured), and despite what some will say make sure that the advance diaphragm is hooked up, preferably to ported not manifold vacuum. Vacuum advance helps fuel economy and promotes better combustion which lengthens the life of your rings and cylinder walls.
Yup. And the disc is limited to stopping the advance, which is the opposite of what needs to be done in many cases.
 
I'll second Don's box system. I used a total FBO set up and it was great.
The plate to limit the advance may or may not be needed. Depends on the distributoron hand. OE distributors normally need a limitation due to many distributors advancing way past 36*'s.
 
Anybody ever crack open an FBO control box and see whats inside? I noticed it comes with a ballast eliminator jumper.

Here you go:
No slow antiquated Transistors
Computer chip controlled- Level 5 Electronics
LED OK self check in .4 seconds
Algorithm Rev Limiter 5200-7000 (10/200 RPM increments (+- 10*)
Billet housing
MADE IN USA (Huawei free)
All components manufactured with ISO9000 Standards to guaranty quality control
5 YEAR WARRANTY Now on ECU and Coil

$219.00 with Coil and Limiter Plate-Includes Priority Mail 3 day shipping within the USA.

HRR688internal.jpg
 
Yup. And the disc is limited to stopping the advance, which is the opposite of what needs to be done in many cases.
I really don't understand what you mean by this statement the disc shortens the amount of mechanical advance. If you want 34* total and 20 initial you simply use the 14* slot, it's a mechanical advance limiter no different than welding the slots and filing until you get the initial and total where you want it or loosening the 2 screws on a Real MP distributor and shortening or lengthening the slot to control the travel... what are you trying to accomplish?
 
"They are made in the USA, but I think some of it is farmed out to Mexico but I can't remember which part. (the billet cases maybe?)"

No components are of the HRR688 are manufactured outside the USA, only a few of the electronic components in the actual board are imported as they are not made anywhere in the USA. The housings are Fl., Boards built in Ca., pins and labels are made here in Or., final assembly and packing is done here at our shop in Cottage Grove Or.
Nothing is made in China or Mexico.

Believe it! We can produce a box here in the USA with no Chinese content for 25% less ($219.00) and give it a 5 Year Warranty compared to the MSD 6AL and Blaster 2 coil with 1 year warranty (Summit $296.00) Made in China

http://cliff.hostkansas.com/pffimages3/distributor2.jpg
 
Here you go:
No slow antiquated Transistors
Computer chip controlled- Level 5 Electronics
LED OK self check in .4 seconds
Algorithm Rev Limiter 5200-7000 (10/200 RPM increments (+- 10*)
Billet housing
MADE IN USA (Huawei free)
All components manufactured with ISO9000 Standards to guaranty quality control
5 YEAR WARRANTY Now on ECU and Coil

$219.00 with Coil and Limiter Plate-Includes Priority Mail 3 day shipping within the USA.

View attachment 1715338048


How much more difficult would it be to build that box with a two step rev limiter????? Or is it even possible in that housing?
 
I really don't understand what you mean by this statement the disc shortens the amount of mechanical advance. If you want 34* total and 20 initial you simply use the 14* slot, it's a mechanical advance limiter no different than welding the slots and filing until you get the initial and total where you want it or loosening the 2 screws on a Real MP distributor and shortening or lengthening the slot to control the travel... what are you trying to accomplish?
Well every time I explain you disappear. I've posted it in writing and in graphs.
 
Thinking about upgrading my ignition system ( distributor ) it is the electronic distributor now but not sure how old it is. I really don't plan on taking the car to the strip so I can't see spending big bucks on a MSD. Would like something to just plug in and go. Do I stay with the Mopar Performance Distributor or something else. Are the HEI distributors better than the stock replacement's ?
Talk to Don at FBO (member cuda66273), he just built up a distributor for my 340 and it worked great out of the box.
Anyone in the market for a slightly used MSD Pro billet?
 
Nice to see you Don!
"They are made in the USA, but I think some of it is farmed out to Mexico but I can't remember which part. (the billet cases maybe?)"

No components are of the HRR688 are manufactured outside the USA, only a few of the electronic components in the actual board are imported as they are not made anywhere in the USA. The housings are Fl., Boards built in Ca., pins and labels are made here in Or., final assembly and packing is done here at our shop in Cottage Grove Or.
Nothing is made in China or Mexico.

Believe it! We can produce a box here in the USA with no Chinese content for 25% less ($219.00) and give it a 5 Year Warranty compared to the MSD 6AL and Blaster 2 coil with 1 year warranty (Summit $296.00) Made in China

http://cliff.hostkansas.com/pffimages3/distributor2.jpg
 
Cheapest is the Ready-To-Run (Ningbo) distributor ($45 ebay) plus an e-core coil. Tempting to buy one to keep in the trunk for on-road repairs. But, not sure any info on tuning the advance or vacuum curves. You can use your existing distributor w/ a GM 8-pin HEI module & coil, which also gives you e-core and loses the bothersome ballast. Cheap at junkyard or buy TrailBeast' kit. That lets you play with curves in your Mopar distributor.
 
-
Back
Top