Why did someone splice into this IGN. 1 lead?

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Bronze Barracuda

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I am repairing my original wire harness (68 barracuda). A little background. Wiring diagram shows 6 prongs on my ignition, mine only has 5?
While restoring my harness I came across a purple with white trace wire heading to slot D on my instrument harness connector, as well as a blue with white trace wire heading through firewall to ignition coil resistor both spliced into IGN. 1 on my ignition switch. A previous owner spliced into the purple and white wire with a black wire, (about a foot long) with a ring connector on the end. Would anyone know why previous owner would have done this? Where would you suppose it went to? I think it is a live 12v wire so not a ground??
I took a couple of pictures.

15911500999194309366220878892373.jpg


15911501613513870095550810654408.jpg
 
Voltmeter etc
Come to think of it. I did remove an aftermarket volt meter and oil pressure gauge:thumbsup:

Thanks that must've been it. I'll remove it. I redid the instrument cluster. Replaced the fuel gauge IVR with a solid state one from radio shack and a working oil pressure gauge.
for a bodies only has some of the most helpful and knowledgeable people of any car forum I have been associated with.
Thanks again.
 
Some changes between '67 and '68 but IIRC the connections are the same.
I would check the colors against the '68 FSM or the pdf versions of the same.

Ground is not used.
upload_2020-6-3_0-15-50.png


upload_2020-6-3_0-18-44.png


Hot is Red. it is the power from the Battery and Alternator.
I-1 (Run) and A (accessory) are hot when the key is in Run position.

On '67 Barracuda the 18 ga blue with white is power to the brake warning light.
16 ga blue with white is power to the ignition and regulator. That I know didn't change.
upload_2020-6-3_0-28-16.png
 
Those connectors on ign switch are aftermarket. Make sure its ALL wired properly. Someone's been in there doing something. Easier now than later.
A manual with proper schematics is a must if you dont have one. Dont repeat someone else's insanity.
Good luck.
 
I will say I really like the open barrel terminals now that I've been using them.
When crimped they really hold the wire well and support the insulation.
PS. Steve. I found the nifty Astro interchangeable jaw crimper wasn't up to the task on some heavy ring terminals I'm using. The American wire copies of the packard crimper worked far easier. I only soldered that one repair in the photo because the wire strands had some damage. If there was any slack in the harness I would have cut it back. But I didn't want to strain it. Other option was to splice in a length of wire. 6 to one 1/2 dozen the other IMO
 
here's a nice version of the 68' barracuda wiring harness made by @1969383S. you can turn the layers on / off
 

Attachments

  • 68 Barracuda Factory Wiring REV 2.pdf
    120 KB · Views: 128
There are many reasons to splice into the IGN1 wire some of them not very good, others "OK" One is a tach. There are some add-ons that a person would not want powered in "accessory."
 
These are traces from the original manual. Overlayed in Autocad from PDF then retraced in color. There is some human error that may apply by stitching the factory diagrams together.

Please use and report Any issues so I can Revise them. If you find issues, it may be that you have mid/late year Changes or have harnesses that are over 50+ years Old that have been changed and or modified that effects things. Please keep this in mind.
 
Some changes between '67 and '68 but IIRC the connections are the same.
I would check the colors against the '68 FSM or the pdf versions of the same.

Ground is not used.
View attachment 1715539651

View attachment 1715539652

Hot is Red. it is the power from the Battery and Alternator.
I-1 (Run) and A (accessory) are hot when the key is in Run position.

On '67 Barracuda the 18 ga blue with white is power to the brake warning light.
16 ga blue with white is power to the ignition and regulator. That I know didn't change.
View attachment 1715539656


Yep I am just leaning the mysteries of auto electrical. It is a lot easier to learn when it is out of the car and laid out on a work bench.
If you noticed in my first picture my ignition switch is missing the original harness clip. Tried finding one, are there any companies that make individual parts of the harness? I just want to replace or repair whatever I can on the original.
 
Those connectors on ign switch are aftermarket. Make sure its ALL wired properly. Someone's been in there doing something. Easier now than later.
A manual with proper schematics is a must if you dont have one. Dont repeat someone else's insanity.
Good luck.
Yep going through the whole thing with a fine toothed comb. and solder, mini files, disconnect tool, electrical tape and patience:thumbsup:
 
Yep I am just leaning the mysteries of auto electrical. It is a lot easier to learn when it is out of the car and laid out on a work bench.
If you noticed in my first picture my ignition switch is missing the original harness clip. Tried finding one, are there any companies that make individual parts of the harness? I just want to replace or repair whatever I can on the original.
I sure did notice that. My suggestion is it will be easiest to get a switch connector from a bad harness someone is cuttting up for parts.
The original style terminals can be purchased from Mouser and other venders. Here's a thread on those:
Sources for Chrysler type wire terminals

Since the harness wrap is off, you have a lot more flexibility in making the repairs than I have. If you rewrap with tape, look for a version made with little to no adhesive. I've bought from year one but there are other sources.

The photos in post 5 show the accessory wire terminal replaced. The insulation was rock hard from heat damage. Definately best to have every wire strand crimped and then some form of support for the insulation.

Shrink tubing is my prefered 'go to' for covering exposed wire.
 
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