Resto Cluster Gauges Inoperable!

-

QuickDart360

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 5, 2014
Messages
1,704
Reaction score
1,005
Location
San Antonio
I removed my old but functional cluster. However, speedo not working just odometer. So looked for new speedo and is about 340 to 370 bucks! So ran across a restored cluster from Mr heaterbox out of Canada. Cluster comes refurbished with new circuit board, voltage limiter and restored and calibrated gauges. Install it and only speedo works! What can be wrong if all is renewed!?
 
Please folks shed me some light. May just use speedo with old cluster that was working. But really want to take advantage of new unit.
 
I removed my old but functional cluster. However, speedo not working just odometer. So looked for new speedo and is about 340 to 370 bucks! So ran across a restored cluster from Mr heaterbox out of Canada. Cluster comes refurbished with new circuit board, voltage limiter and restored and calibrated gauges. Install it and only speedo works! What can be wrong if all is renewed!?

Is it properly grounded?
 
That is a huge opened ended question, sorry! Perhaps knowing all the issues you faced prior would be a good start before finding the need to replace it all.
 
Ground is the 3 lower screws to dash? Or is there another ground somwhere? Installed like old cluster was and old one works good.
 
Well before only faulty item was speedo which is 100% mechanical. My old cluster and guages were working just fine. This new cluster is dead @ the gauges. Not one is working! So I'm stumped.:(
 
Normal ground is though the connection to the metal dash. Augmented ground sometimes is needed. why? A new shiny dash?
 
Normal ground is though the connection to the metal dash. Augmented ground sometimes is needed. why? A new shiny dash?
Good you mention new shiny cluster! Old cluster I had sanded the tabs to dash and dash too. New did not. Also wonder if new style circuit board (green color now) is a good part or not so great?
 
Ground is the 3 lower screws to dash? Or is there another ground somwhere? Installed like old cluster was and old one works good.

Not a "very good" ground. I would run like a 8ga from the metal cluster frame to a good ground on the dash somewhere.
 
To test you could use an alligator clip a go from referbed dash to clean bare metal body part.

Have you contacted the reman co?

You can also bench test the cluster.
 
Well before only faulty item was speedo which is 100% mechanical. My old cluster and guages were working just fine. This new cluster is dead @ the gauges. Not one is working! So I'm stumped.:(

I guess just give up on it and throw it away. Damn man. A ground wire takes ten minutes to run. Ten minutes. If it doesn't work then, you got a problem.
 
Good you mention new shiny cluster! Old cluster I had sanded the tabs to dash and dash too. New did not. Also wonder if new style circuit board (green color now) is a good part or not so great?

The circuit board color is not an issue for you.

Take a deep breath and get out the meter!
 
Seeing as how the speedo-meter is mechanical and is all that works, for sure indicates an electrical problem. Yes verify you have a good ground. Do the cluster lights work? The gauges themselves ground through their respective sending units. Did they 'forget' to plug the limiter in?

This is from a Charger, but I think most of our old dogs had this setup--the part in front of the right arrow needs to be firmly pressed into slots on the board. The cylindrical one on the left just gets strapped down as shown:
charger gauge cluster.jpg

You might check the pins and sockets for the main connector plug too, sometimes they get loose or break off when you plug/unplug it.



I guess just give up on it and throw it away. Damn man. A ground wire takes ten minutes to run. Ten minutes. If it doesn't work then, you got a problem.
Rusty: "Hey guys, howdya like the Hemi in my new avatar?"
The guys: "What Hemi?!" :p
 
Last edited:
Please folks shed me some light. May just use speedo with old cluster that was working. But really want to take advantage of new unit.
How about a single candle light from you. what the heck you working on? Pictures of both removed and replacement would help. Some panels had 2 switched hot wires, a blue with white tracer (served limiter only) and a black. In later models the blue with white was deleted, black served all. So circuit boards need to be identical in circuitry. Ink color varies with mfgr. and is not a factor.
 
How about a single candle light from you. what the heck you working on? Pictures of both removed and replacement would help. Some panels had 2 switched hot wires, a blue with white tracer (served limiter only) and a black. In later models the blue with white was deleted, black served all. So circuit boards need to be identical in circuitry. Ink color varies with mfgr. and is not a factor.
1974 dodge dart sport 360.
 
1974 dodge dart sport 360.
OK, I think oil warning lamp, park rake lamp, and limiter are all on the same 12 volt switched supply. Without wiring diagrams I can't say is this supply fused or not.
Gauges wouldn't be tested or calibrated mounted in the housing. The new replacement limiter probably was never tested either. A new reproduction circuit board and limiter should work but... maybe not.
If those 2 warning lamps work you do have 12 volts going to the limiter. If illumination, turn indicator, and hi beam bulbs work, you have chassis ground. Fault would have to be right at the limiter, the limiter itself or those springy female clips that are supposed to link its male terminals to the circuit board. i know some of these new boards have shorter pins for harness connectors. I don't know about the quality of their female terminals under the limiter.
 
OK, I think oil warning lamp, park rake lamp, and limiter are all on the same 12 volt switched supply. Without wiring diagrams I can't say is this supply fused or not.
Gauges wouldn't be tested or calibrated mounted in the housing. The new replacement limiter probably was never tested either. A new reproduction circuit board and limiter should work but... maybe not.
If those 2 warning lamps work you do have 12 volts going to the limiter. If illumination, turn indicator, and hi beam bulbs work, you have chassis ground. Fault would have to be right at the limiter, the limiter itself or those springy female clips that are supposed to link its male terminals to the circuit board. i know some of these new boards have shorter pins for harness connectors. I don't know about the quality of their female terminals under the limiter.
Will make some time to have a look.
 
-
Back
Top