What to do...

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Toluene56

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So I've finally got to hit the track this year.

Previous best run last year with some issues was 11.70@113 I think around 5800ft da that day.

After some test passes and playing with timing before I ran out of tnt time.
11.57@117.8 at 7000ft da
1.64 60ft
7.38 @93.6
Shifting at 7000rpm
27x10.50 Hoosier 4.30 gears
4500ish stall converter (not built for the combo)
Leaving off idle (best 60ft so far)
Here's the catch.. I think it can go a smidge quicker. I have a feeling a new converter built for the combo would be the ticket. But that's pricey. And aside from putting it and me on a diet, anything else you folks think I could do to eek out a little quicker?

Here's the combo as it sits
73 dart, all steel and glass w subframe connectors. 3500lbs (more of a guess but I'm a big boy)
Magnum 5.9 scat rotating assy 408
11.75:1 comp
Trickflow heads
Super Vic intake (basic port match)
Qft 950
Howard's solid roller 257/267@050 .640/.645
Loose front suspension, qa1 upper and lower control arms and strut rods
This outing I used drilled out stock shocks, I do have a set of 3way CE shocks to use as well (had the best 60ft with them last year 1.59)
Caltrac mono leafs rear with rancho 9000 shocks
Not the best video of the run, but it's what I have
 
That's some serious altitude your running at. Many racers that race consistently at over 5000 feet carry a little extra atmosphere in a big blue bottle. Nano makes a really good capped nitrous system that maintains bottle pressure through a run without any bottle heaters and the like. A 50 hp shot with one gives gains closer to a 75 shot with the consistent nitrous pressure.
 
1.good set of adjustable rear shocks. Spend the money, they’re worth it.
2. Better front shocks. Not as important as rears but still worth it.
I would contact Calvert with some specs and ask they’re recomendation.
Tune tune tune on the suspension. It seems you’ve got the engine pretty dialed just need to get the chassis to follow suit. Love your car been following it on here for a while.
 
One more thing you probably know already, diet. Lightning the car up is the best and easiest way to make it faster.
 
That's some serious altitude your running at. Many racers that race consistently at over 5000 feet carry a little extra atmosphere in a big blue bottle. Nano makes a really good capped nitrous system that maintains bottle pressure through a run without any bottle heaters and the like. A 50 hp shot with one gives gains closer to a 75 shot with the consistent nitrous pressure.
Rings are gapped for nitrous (250+ according to the specs from icon when I gapped them)... I just wanted to see how far I can take it before adding it.
 
1.good set of adjustable rear shocks. Spend the money, they’re worth it.
2. Better front shocks. Not as important as rears but still worth it.
I would contact Calvert with some specs and ask they’re recomendation.
Tune tune tune on the suspension. It seems you’ve got the engine pretty dialed just need to get the chassis to follow suit. Love your car been following it on here for a while.
The plan is for da shocks front and rear eventually, they're expensive though. Of course I could always do rears first and stick with the cheap 3 ways up front for a while.
 
I missed what rear end gear your running. If I hit my tires off idle with my 4500 stall. I'd still be spinning. But I run 4.58 gears.

Never mind. found it. 4.30' my reading comprehension skills sometimes sucks
 
I missed what rear end gear your running. If I hit my tires off idle with my 4500 stall. I'd still be spinning. But I run 4.58 gears.

Never mind. found it. 4.30' my reading comprehension skills sometimes sucks
Usually that is the case, but this test n tune they actually prepped the track for nhra national open qualifiers. So it hooked well.
 
I'm assuming 727 with standard gearing? What RPM are you going through the traps at?
 
I’d look for a used Victor.

I think the SV is too big for that stall
speed and elevation.

The speed is good enough for a few tenths better ET, but the 60’ isn’t there.
 
Used Victor or Holley Strip Dominator along with tuning the suspension. The gearing calculator shows that a 4.88 gear would really make it come to life, but if your going to spray it I probably wouldn't go lower than a 4.56. Extra gears before getting the bite right would probably do nothing except to make the car go slower, though!
 
I’d look for a used Victor.

I think the SV is too big for that stall
speed and elevation.

The speed is good enough for a few tenths better ET, but the 60’ isn’t there.
I wonder if the trickflow intake would be any better...or maybe a ported air gap intake?.
I would think the air gap would help the low end but then Peter out up top.
 
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A dual plane would be a step backwards with a 4500 stall and that cam. If this were my car I would put more converter in it, a good set of rear adjustable shocks, and start thinking about a trans brake. Get it to leave on the converter and hook and it will ET better. Where is peak torque? Have you had it on a dyno?
 
A dual plane would be a step backwards with a 4500 stall and that cam. If this were my car I would put more converter in it, a good set of rear adjustable shocks, and start thinking about a trans brake. Get it to leave on the converter and hook and it will ET better. Where is peak torque? Have you had it on a dyno?
I figured it was a step backwards.. no dyno.. converter is planned.. mainly because I want one that will handle nitrous. But I will say it feels like it will pull Past 7000rpm.. I just ran out of time to up the rpm in increments. Plus 7k + makes me nervous lol
 
If it feels like it will keep pulling to 7500 and you modified the oiling system to keep up with it, then I would try a 4.56 gear (may seem small, but drops close 15 mph off your shift points. The base Victor 340 is probably the best manifold to get unless you want to get a strip dominator or an MP single plane and fill the carburetor pad in from a spread bore to a square bore pattern. The trick flow looks a whole lot like the super victor to me. It’s a little more “Street“ than “Strip“, but I sorta like an old Weiand 7510, too. Basically a large plenum accelerator. They’re almost impossible to find now, but I’ve known of a few fast drag cars that have used one.
 
@Garrett Ellison do you think he should change gearing with the future plans of adding nitrous? Im not a nitrous guru but my first thought is no. Stick with the 4:30 and try it. I’m under the impression that the nitrous combo will want a lower gear. But I’ve never gone really fast on gas.
 
For the altitude I think you are fine. Wallace says at 1200ft that time should be around 10.6 10.7
 
@Garrett Ellison do you think he should change gearing with the future plans of adding nitrous? Im not a nitrous guru but my first thought is no. Stick with the 4:30 and try it. I’m under the impression that the nitrous combo will want a lower gear. But I’ve never gone really fast on gas.
Correct! I think suspension tuning and a nitrous specific converter that the extra cylinder pressure won't "blow through" is the next step if that is the intention for the car. A nitrous specific converter usually has to be tight enough that it won't stall effectively for running naturally aspirated. If the 4500 rpm stall converter has anti ballooning plates and is acting tight, I'd get the suspension ready and put a system on it. I'd probably keep the SV intake, too, the torque it leaves off the line may make the hit a little softer when the spray comes in.
 
Correct! I think suspension tuning and a nitrous specific converter that the extra cylinder pressure won't "blow through" is the next step if that is the intention for the car. A nitrous specific converter usually has to be tight enough that it won't stall effectively for running naturally aspirated. If the 4500 rpm stall converter has anti ballooning plates and is acting tight, I'd get the suspension ready and put a system on it. I'd probably keep the SV intake, too, the torque it leaves off the line may make the hit a little softer when the spray comes in.
That was my original thought with the sv and nitrous... Although I'm not sure the converter has antibalooning plates in it. I didn't really wanna take the chance with a large hit.
 
Definitely not, Lol! What's the converter diameter and brand? Many of the nine inch or smaller converters have an anti-ballooning as standard equipment.
 
Definitely not, Lol! What's the converter diameter and brand? Many of the nine inch or smaller converters have an anti-ballooning as standard equipment.
I believe it is a 9" dynamic.. made about 12 ish years ago..was never used and came with another car. So I used it in mine. Lol
 
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