Squeaking Sound Coming from 225 /6

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What year is your car. The early A bodies have tight engine compartment but it is still possible to remove the oil pump with the engine in the car.
Worst case you will need to loosen the passenger side motor mount, then use a jack to raise that side of the engine to get the pump out. You will be able to reach the bolts, but will need the clearance to extract the pump.
Don’t be surprised if your OE pump has six mounting bolts and the replacement has five. The five bolt pumps seal up fine. Also look at the photo of the pump in the ad. Does it come with the drive gear installed? If not get one with the drive gear installed. Moving the drive gear from the old pump to the new pump is doable,, I have done that many times, and can walk you through it, it is just one more thing for you to deal with.
With that said, I would mount the mechanical oil pressure gauge first and verify what the oil pressure is before changing out the pump. If you do have an oil pressure issue, it could be the oil pump bypass is stuck open,, to fix that right you will still need to remove the pump from the engine, but you don’t need to spend 80.00 on a new pump. If you do the standard volume is fine.

It’s a ‘64. I’ll go ahead and order this mech gauge from summit (exponentially cheaper than having auto zone or the like ship one to my local store - $94 vs. $20) and install it. I’ll probably pick up a holder and mount it under the dash so I can keep the stock look in my cluster and also have a proper gauge there.

It looks like this one from summit has the drive gear, I believe.
 
Maybe I missed it but has the pan ever been off? When I got my slant I don't think the pan had ever been off because its a pain to do. Anyway there was about 2 inches of gray sludge in the bottom of the pan. I'm sure it was always low on oil because the oil was being displaced by the sludge. So even though it read okay on the dipstick but there wasn't enough in the engine.

Also when my 318 spun a rod bearing it was knocking not squealing. Good luck!
 
Maybe I missed it but has the pan ever been off? When I got my slant I don't think the pan had ever been off because its a pain to do. Anyway there was about 2 inches of gray sludge in the bottom of the pan. I'm sure it was always low on oil because the oil was being displaced by the sludge. So even though it read okay on the dipstick but there wasn't enough in the engine.

Also when my 318 spun a rod bearing it was knocking not squealing. Good luck!
Yeah I’d expect It’s a pain. The sub frame is in the way, so the engine has to be removed I believe. I might end up getting the engine removed and check the pan sooner than later.
Yeah it wasn’t knocking, so hopefully that’s a good sign the rod bearing isn’t spun.
 
It doesn't have to be removed, but lifted up so you get some clearance yes. I did it in the street in front of my house. Just unbolt the motor mounts and lift it up.
 
I’m looking for a mechanical gauge not an electric gauge right?
I don't like mechanical o.p. gauges. Does it seem like a good idea to you to have a piece of plastic tubing with pressurized oil in it in the interior of the car?
 
I don't like mechanical o.p. gauges. Does it seem like a good idea to you to have a piece of plastic tubing with pressurized oil in it in the interior of the car?

What’s the alternative? I’m not quite sure how the electrical ones work to be honest. If it’s as easy or easier to install then I’ll do that
 
What’s the alternative? I’m not quite sure how the electrical ones work to be honest. If it’s as easy or easier to install then I’ll do that
You have a sending unit that gets wired to the gauge, and of course the whole thing needs power. They all come with instructions. I don't think it'll be a big problem installing it.
 
I don't like mechanical o.p. gauges. Does it seem like a good idea to you to have a piece of plastic tubing with pressurized oil in it in the interior of the car?
Do you actually know someone that had the plastic line on a mechanical oil pressure gauge fail? If you do then you also know a lousy installer. Keep the line clear of exhaust manifolds and or jagged sharp edges and you will be fine. If you are worried about the possibility of a plastic line failing from a fatigue crack, just remember to change it out every 50 years, or install a steel or copper line. The metal lines are also available at Summit. With metal lines put a loop in the line close to the engine to absorb vibrations.
The problem with electric oil pressure gauges, they are dampened, so there is no immediate feedback, mechanical gauges report in numerical psi.
 
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So it’s a spring, a rotor, and the drive gear? Just trying to figure outback what the parts are that it replaces
That actually is a nice price on that repair kit.
The spring controls the oil pressure by pass. Being old stock, chances are that is a good hard gear.
 
That actually is a nice price on that repair kit.
The spring controls the oil pressure by pass. Being old stock, chances are that is a good hard gear.

I’ll buy that rebuild kit. No reason not to. If it ends up being something I do not immediately need, still good to have.
Do you actually know someone that had the plastic line on a mechanical oil pressure gauge fail? If you do then you also know a lousy installer. Keep the line clear of exhaust manifolds and or jagged sharp edges and you will be fine. If you are worried about the possibility of a plastic line failing from a fatigue crack, just remember to change it out every 50 years, or install a steel or copper line. The metal lines are also available at Summit. With metal lines put a loop in the line close to the engine to absorb vibrations.
The problem with electric oil pressure gauges, they are dampened, so there is no immediate feedback. I have not looked for one of those but the electric gauges typically are only scaled with a L for low and an H for high,, mechanical gauges report in numerical psi.

I personally am slightly worried about a line failure. But the responsiveness and reliability is what’s I’m looking for, which puts mechanical far and above electrical. It will also be easier to install. Now I just just have to debate a metal line versus the rubber, which I might do. Thank you!
 
My 64 has the sender in the block on the passenger's side toward the rear.
Photo of the passenger side rear side of the OE ‘68 slant block. The boss on the oil line was present. I drilled and tapped it for a manual oil pressure gauge. As the motor is out of the car I have a plug in the threaded hole.

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I don't like the plastic lines, and the racing associations do not allow them. Copper lines have a problem, in that they can get fractured from vibration, and "work hardining". Also they can whined up getting a hole burned in it from a electrical short (wrench or bare wire). What I do is use the copper line, run inside small gauge rubber hose, like windshield washer tubing, and make sure there are vibration loops.
 
shoot us a pic of that sender location. I've read you had it back there, was it tapped or stock? Back in the age of penny pinching I wonder what the logic was with another machining step in the block process. They even had remote trans filters back then so anything is possible I suppose.

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That’s little knob with the wire coming out in the center of the photo Is the sending unit? That’s the passenger side of the engine toward the firewall (ignore my dirty engine and engine bay, had a radiator line blow whole driving around when I asked your advice about coolant)
 
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That’s little knob with the wire coming out in the center of the photo Is the sending unit? That’s the passenger side of the engine toward the firewall (ignore my dirty engine and engine bay, had a radiator line blow whole driving around when I asked your advice about coolant)
Yes, that is the sender location for the electric oil pressure gauge. Remember you are working to diagnose a problem, you can install the mechanical oil pressure gauge with a temporary line routing. You need good connections, mount the gauge with quick ties to the driver side windshield wiper and route the plastic line through a gap in the hood to cowl,,, and have info to determine if you have an oil pressure problem. Figure out running a secondary variable gauge later.
 
Yes, that is the sender location for the electric oil pressure gauge. Remember you are working to diagnose a problem, you can install the mechanical oil pressure gauge with a temporary line routing. You need good connections, mount the gauge with quick ties to the driver side windshield wiper and route the plastic line through a gap in the hood to cowl,,, and have info to determine if you have an oil pressure problem. Figure out running a secondary variable gauge later.

Got it. I’ll do a quick a and dirty install this time around to get measurements, and then later on I’ll properly Route it and t it off and mount it under the dash.

Hopefully I’ll get this sorted out.
 
Yes. Made a big mess.
I bled mine from the inside by cracking the nut to get the air out. At 22 psi idle, I barely got a dribble out of the 1/8 OD line? The pressure popped right up on the gauge once I cinched it down but there was no oil jet squirting? Maybe I had a kink somewhere....They sell firewall isolators, mandatory for mechanical fuel pressure gauges. Just a 2 opposite ports manifold with a diaphragm in the middle and light oil running to the gauge. The fuel pressure pushes on the diaphragm transferring the pressure to the harmless fluid to the gauge in the cab..
 
I don't like mechanical o.p. gauges. Does it seem like a good idea to you to have a piece of plastic tubing with pressurized oil in it in the interior of the car?

You can get copper line, that's what I use.

Do you actually know someone that had the plastic line on a mechanical oil pressure gauge fail?
Yes, in my 70 duster many many years ago. The line was old and brittle and it broke inside the car under the dash. I never could get the oil smell out of that car. This is why I only use the copper line now.
 
I bled mine from the inside by cracking the nut to get the air out. At 22 psi idle, I barely got a dribble out of the 1/8 OD line? The pressure popped right up on the gauge once I cinched it down but there was no oil jet squirting? Maybe I had a kink somewhere....They sell firewall isolators, mandatory for mechanical fuel pressure gauges. Just a 2 opposite ports manifold with a diaphragm in the middle and light oil running to the gauge. The fuel pressure pushes on the diaphragm transferring the pressure to the harmless fluid to the gauge in the cab..
I have never bled an engine oil pressure gauge,, bled hydraulic brakes yes, the pressure in a hydraulic brake line is 0 to maybe 1000 psi, the compressibility of trapped air will make a difference in system effectiveness. The pressure in a mechanical engine oil pressure line is maybe 0 to 70 psi,, you will not see the impact of trapped air. Other than bubbles in the plastic line,,, if that bothers you,, bled the bubbles out, but that will not affect the gauge.
 
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