Squeaking Sound Coming from 225 /6

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Gauge was way more responsive with no air bubble in it you could see it vibrating when bled solid. With a little air pocket, it was more stable. The bubbles were just bugging me, watching it change size when revving it seemed unnatural for a hydraulic gauge.
 
All I can say, with all possible respect, you screwed up the install, left out a ferrel, reused a ferrel, kinked the line,
Plastic lasts nearly forever,,, odds are it was operator error. Not being critical,
Not my car & not my installation. But I learned from this, and I can see no good reason to install a mechanical o.p. gauge inside the car.
 
I have never bled an engine oil pressure gauge,, bled hydraulic brakes yes, the pressure in a hydraulic brake line is 0 to maybe 1000 psi, the compressibility of trapped air will make a difference in system effectiveness. The pressure in a mechanical engine oil pressure line is maybe 0 to 70 psi,, you will not see the impact of trapped air. Other than bubbles in the plastic line,,, if that bothers you,, bled the bubbles out, but that will not affect the gauge.
I bled mine from the inside by cracking the nut to get the air out. At 22 psi idle, I barely got a dribble out of the 1/8 OD line? The pressure popped right up on the gauge once I cinched it down but there was no oil jet squirting? Maybe I had a kink somewhere....They sell firewall isolators, mandatory for mechanical fuel pressure gauges. Just a 2 opposite ports manifold with a diaphragm in the middle and light oil running to the gauge. The fuel pressure pushes on the diaphragm transferring the pressure to the harmless fluid to the gauge in the cab..

So is it worth bleeding when I do my final install? And how should I route it through the firewall? This also brings up a question- there’s no tach in the ‘64, and i will eventually want to mount one under the dash along with the mech oil gauge, how would I install one?
 
Gauge was way more responsive with no air bubble in it you could see it vibrating when bled solid. With a little air pocket, it was more stable. The bubbles were just bugging me, watching it change size when revving it seemed unnatural for a hydraulic gauge.

With a rubber line do I need to do those vibration loops? And if so, do I just loop the cable, does it need to be tied off in that state? Just making sure I get it right
 
All I can say, with all possible respect, you screwed up the install, left out a ferrel, reused a ferrel, kinked the line,
Plastic lasts nearly forever,,, odds are it was operator error. Not being critical,

I like the plastic/nylon lines. Just route them away from sharp edges and heat and they last forever.
 
9 lbs average, as little as 7 lbs will turn off a oil warning lamp. Senders don't squeak either.
If that slant six pokes the number 5 rod through the left side of the block...
 
Your best bet is to get back on track and install a mechanical oil pressure gauge to help diagnose your oil pressure issue. Do a temporary install.

That’s 100% my plan. Hopefully the gauge will arrive today and i can get it installed and get some numbers.
 
I just finished the install and tested it. It measured 50 psi after crank and stayed there for several minutes as I let it idle and warm up. Here is a video of what’s it sounded like in the engine bay.

Any help is appreciated! Thank you all for the information so far.

Gauge was way more responsive with no air bubble in it you could see it vibrating when bled solid. With a little air pocket, it was more stable. The bubbles were just bugging me, watching it change size when revving it seemed unnatural for a hydraulic gauge.

Your best bet is to get back on track and install a mechanical oil pressure gauge to help diagnose your oil pressure issue. Do a temporary install.

I like the plastic/nylon lines. Just route them away from sharp edges and heat and they last forever.
 
I daily my ‘64 Dart (225 Slant 6) and usually have no issue. The past few weeks i had a low oil pressure light on, but had plenty of oil so I changed my oil a week or so ago.
MToday when I started my car, the engine didn’t so sound right, slightly bogged down, and when revved (in neutral), squeaked. I revved again and it’s squeaked again. I have enough oil according to the dipstick.

I suspect there’s an issue with the oil pump and the engine is running dry. Any thoughts?

So you saw 50 psi on the oil gauge? You just made Uncle Tony jealous.

You should take the valve cover off and see if you have good oil flow up there. If it's sludged up, take the rocker shaft off and clean out the rocker arm oil feed holes in the shaft as they're only about 1/8" diameter.

First thing I think of when a revved up engine squeaks is belts. Take off the belts, rev the engine and see if it still aqueaks.
 
Lots of post,didnt read them all but have you checked the flex plate bolts. I know they usually make a tapping noise but its worth a shot.
 
What was the idle oil pressure HOT? Everybody always leaves out the most important information.
 
What was the idle oil pressure HOT? Everybody always leaves out the most important information.

Don’t know about hot. I only left it cranked for around 5 minutes in idle. My temperature gauge isn’t working so ill check to make sure it’s hooked up and then replace my sending unit so i can get a measurement at operating temp.
 
So you saw 50 psi on the oil gauge? You just made Uncle Tony jealous.

You should take the valve cover off and see if you have good oil flow up there. If it's sludged up, take the rocker shaft off and clean out the rocker arm oil feed holes in the shaft as they're only about 1/8" diameter.

First thing I think of when a revved up engine squeaks is belts. Take off the belts, rev the engine and see if it still aqueaks.

Immediately after crank the gauge was up at the 50 mark, and stayed there with some minor fluctuations (a little down after a minute or so, then went up to maybe 52 for a while) until I killed the engine.

Valve covers are my next step. The rocker arm is the piece connected to the valve springs, correct? I’ll check and make sure there’s oil, should I do this while it’s cranked?

My belts were replaced in february, but it’s worth checking out. I’ll look Into how to do that.
 
You know i got to thinking about this thread while im bored at lunch. What if it has nothing to do with oil but a faulty oil sender. And the real problem is a bad alternator. You say the car bogged down and squeaked after revving squeaked again. If the alternators toast and you broke a brush would that not cause squeaking and not running at 14v or so the car wont run the best. Id pull the belts like suggested and see if the squeaking continues. Or could be a water pump bearing if you have just water because remember coolant not only cools the car but lubes the pump. Just a thought.
 
You know i got to thinking about this thread while im bored at lunch. What if it has nothing to do with oil but a faulty oil sender. And the real problem is a bad alternator. You say the car bogged down and squeaked after revving squeaked again. If the alternators toast and you broke a brush would that not cause squeaking and not running at 14v or so the car wont run the best. Id pull the belts like suggested and see if the squeaking continues. Or could be a water pump bearing if you have just water because remember coolant not only cools the car but lubes the pump. Just a thought.

That’s a good thought. I had an issue just a Month or so ago where my car overheated and blew a radiator hose. New hose wasn’t put in, and topped off with mostly water and some coolant. I think, no joke, the pep boys that did that all for free used just tap water which might have messed with it (the minerals etc). This gives me another thing to check for. If it’s not an oil pressure issue (the wire from the sender broke immediately upon moving it at all, so a resistance issue would be expected, resulting in a turned on oil pressure light) as indicated by the mech op gauge, then maybe it’s an oiling issue from the rockers. If I discover it’s not that, maybe it’s accessories, and if it’s not that, then water pump might be the thing.

Thank you for that idea. I will definitely Be looking into it.
 
Ok, a bit of an update. I took the Dart to my mechanic last sunday and they got to it on Tuesday. I had taken the valve covers off, didnt see anything I could easily identify as being wrong, but with 50 pounds of pressure I figured I'd be good for the 1.5 mile drive. Before I drove it over, I left it parked, cranked the car, and revved it in neutral. The squeak did happen, but when I drove it I heard nothing.

After my mechanic looked at it, he couldnt find anything out of the ordinary and couldnt even get it to squeak. I tried again while it was at the shop and it didn't do it. Since that no longer seems to be an issue, I took that opportunity to have my mechanic rebuild my steering coupler with a replacement from Pishta and a rebuild kit from classic industries. It removed a lot of the play, but there's still a significant amount of play (about a quarter turn turning the wheel counter clockwise, none turning it clockwise) while rolling, and about half that when stopped. Some other parts of that linkage are definitely worn out, as I can grab the coupler and turn it and get that play to happen, so it's not there. Time to figure out what's going to be replaced to get my steering up to par (perhaps time to switch to 16:1 or 20:1 and get a not cracked steering wheel)

After driving it around 20 miles round-trip to make sure it was fine and get some measurements here are oil pressure measurements:
50psi at crank
50 psi while driving at operating temperature
20psi to 30 psi while idling in drive at operating temperature

Thanks for everyone's help, sorry there doesn't seem to be some issue that would explain it.
 
There is plenty of locations to check play, the main one is the idler arm. If that bushing is bad, the idler will move up and down, taking some of the left/right motion with it causing a 'play' condition. Get that replaced and also check the steering box mount. Get eyes on the steering box and turn the wheel. The box should not move AT ALL. I cracked my steering mount on the K and about lost the car on the road. While your under there look at the idler arm, it should only move left and right, no up/down movement, as well as the tie rod ends, should be nice and firm on the spindles. Last thing to check is the gear itself. There is a small adjuster nut on top of steering box. Center steering wheel and loosen lock nut and give the adjuster a 1/4 turn to the right. see if there is any play reduction. I had my friend wiggle steering wheel while I did this and I got a half turn out of that adjuster. Seemed to take some play out of the steering.
 
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Steering slop:

With the hood open, resch down and rotate the steering shaft gently back and forth. Near, or at the coupler. Don't be surprised if there is play. You can tighten up the clearance by loosening the lock nut and tightening the screw on the box until the play is just gone. Don't overdo it. Refer to a FSM for instructions. My cars are manual steering snd they are tight.

Also you may have badly worn tie rod ends.
 
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