GM style HEI

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Does anyone have any feed back regarding the Summit GM style distributor on their small block. I know you get what you pay for but even if you have to replace the coil and or module is the rest of the distributor of decent quality? Looks huge!
Thanx guys...
 
It is big. If you want to go GM style HEI, which work quit well, you can go this route Mopar HEI Conversion and keep your factory distributor. This way you still have the factory advance curve and it's less money.
 
Does anyone have any feed back regarding the Summit GM style distributor on their small block. I know you get what you pay for but even if you have to replace the coil and or module is the rest of the distributor of decent quality? Looks huge!
Thanx guys...

Well which specific setup are you talking about? There are many ways down this road, some of which are not truly GM or not HEI.

Many of us use a stock Mopar or performance distributor to trigger a stand alone GM HEI module, either 4 pin or 8 pin or whatever. "A DIY system."

Some of the 1 piece "ready to run" distributors are not really HEI. Some of the "big GM cap" HEI distributors might be of questionable import quality
 
The Summit is the same as all the rest that come from China. Don't let that scare you because they are pretty dang good. I've had one in the 351M in my 75 F250 for about 5 or so years now. Runs like a top.

To me, the HUGE advantage is, IF you have room for that big ole cap, go for it. I say that because replacement parts are available EVERYWHERE. Who doesn't keep a 4 pin Chevy HEI module in stock? Hell, our local WalMart even has them. That's no joke. That's their biggest advantage right there.

Get a Pertronix? Great! Break down on a Sunday afternoon and get back to me. LOL
 
The Summit is the same as all the rest that come from China. Don't let that scare you because they are pretty dang good. I've had one in the 351M in my 75 F250 for about 5 or so years now. Runs like a top.

To me, the HUGE advantage is, IF you have room for that big ole cap, go for it. I say that because replacement parts are available EVERYWHERE. Who doesn't keep a 4 pin Chevy HEI module in stock? Hell, our local WalMart even has them. That's no joke. That's their biggest advantage right there.

Get a Pertronix? Great! Break down on a Sunday afternoon and get back to me. LOL

thats kinda why i looked at these because of the availability everywhere of the GM ignition parts... just dont know if it will clear A body firewall...
 
thats kinda why i looked at these because of the availability everywhere of the GM ignition parts... just dont know if it will clear A body firewall...

If it won't, you can do like Del (@67Dart273) said and build your own. It's very easy. There are plenty of diagrams out there to follow, too.
 
I've got the GM one in my 72 with 5.9 magnum motor. I like them because 1 wire hookup.
 
i have one also on my magnum, but,, i can not seam to find a constant HOT wire,
how did you wire this?

In what? What car are you installing it in? Dammit people we cannot imagine what you are working on. I don't have the gift of mental telepath, and Rusty cannot ever find his damn crystal ball.

1943 Supermarine Spitfires use twin magnetos, they don't NEED a hot wire



............and if you are swapping a hemi into a '28 Farmall, I have no idea what was done with the wiring......

 
In what? What car are you installing it in? Dammit people we cannot imagine what you are working on. I don't have the gift of mental telepath, and Rusty cannot ever find his damn crystal ball.


Edited my post. 1974 duster

1943 Supermarine Spitfires use twin magnetos, they don't NEED a hot wire



............and if you are swapping a hemi into a '28 Farmall, I have no idea what was done with the wiring......

 
OK. In these Mopars there is only one source for switched ignition under the hood and it entails TWO wires

IGN1 or "ignition run" usually dark blue, comes out through the bulkhead, is NOT fused!!! and feeds the ballast, the VR, the alternator field, and some smog doo dads if equipped, as well as electric choke if used.

BUT THIS GOES DEAD when starting.

The starting voltage---to the ignition system is........

IGN2, normally brown. It comes of a separate, dedicated contact on the ignition switch, and feeds to the coil+ side of the ballast resistor

SO if you are installing an igntion--like HEI--that does not use a ballast, you must jumper the IGN1 and IGN2 together--without separating the other stuff it feeds......and hook that to your new ignition

"The easy" way to do this is to jumper the ballast connector terminals together and then connect the original coil+ wire to the new ignition.
 
OK. In these Mopars there is only one source for switched ignition under the hood and it entails TWO wires

IGN1 or "ignition run" usually dark blue, comes out through the bulkhead, is NOT fused!!! and feeds the ballast, the VR, the alternator field, and some smog doo dads if equipped, as well as electric choke if used.

BUT THIS GOES DEAD when starting.

The starting voltage---to the ignition system is........

IGN2, normally brown. It comes of a separate, dedicated contact on the ignition switch, and feeds to the coil+ side of the ballast resistor

SO if you are installing an igntion--like HEI--that does not use a ballast, you must jumper the IGN1 and IGN2 together--without separating the other stuff it feeds......and hook that to your new ignition

"The easy" way to do this is to jumper the ballast connector terminals together and then connect the original coil+ wire to the new ignition.

But won't that give constant power to both lines if you just hook them together? And one isnt supposed to have constant power?
 
This is how I did mine and did away with ballast resister
OK. In these Mopars there is only one source for switched ignition under the hood and it entails TWO wires

IGN1 or "ignition run" usually dark blue, comes out through the bulkhead, is NOT fused!!! and feeds the ballast, the VR, the alternator field, and some smog doo dads if equipped, as well as electric choke if used.

BUT THIS GOES DEAD when starting.

The starting voltage---to the ignition system is........

IGN2, normally brown. It comes of a separate, dedicated contact on the ignition switch, and feeds to the coil+ side of the ballast resistor

SO if you are installing an igntion--like HEI--that does not use a ballast, you must jumper the IGN1 and IGN2 together--without separating the other stuff it feeds......and hook that to your new ignition

"The easy" way to do this is to jumper the ballast connector terminals together and then connect the original coil+ wire to the new ignition.
 
But won't that give constant power to both lines if you just hook them together? And one isnt supposed to have constant power?


No. IGN1 is hot in "run." It goes DEAD in "start"

IGN2 is only hot in "start."

Why?

Because when you twist the key to "start" and if there was no IGN2, the coil would see battery at cranking voltage minus the drop through the ballast = VERY low coil voltage in "start" perhaps less than 6V

So IGN2 jumpers full battery voltage from the key direct to the coil in "start." Since the battery sags during cranking, this means the coil gets around 10.5--11.5V during cranking.
 
No. IGN1 is hot in "run." It goes DEAD in "start"

IGN2 is only hot in "start."

Why?

Because when you twist the key to "start" and if there was no IGN2, the coil would see battery at cranking voltage minus the drop through the ballast = VERY low coil voltage in "start" perhaps less than 6V

So IGN2 jumpers full battery voltage from the key direct to the coil in "start." Since the battery sags during cranking, this means the coil gets around 10.5--11.5V during cranking.


So.. Connect Q and N?

20200912_153229.jpg
 
Cheapest is the "ready-to-run" HEI distributor by Ningbo (China), for ~$45 on ebay, by Steve White Performance and others. They also have one for big-blocks (~$60), but not for the slant six. It doesn't use a GM HEI module, but some other 4-pin module, perhaps for a Japanese engine. I have one but never installed. I might instead install an 8-pin GM HEI module under the cover. You also need an e-core coil. I bought one for $20. If you want to stay Mopar, take one from a Magnum V-8 engine (~1998-2002).
 
Cheapest is the "ready-to-run" HEI distributor by Ningbo (China), for ~$45 on ebay, by Steve White Performance and others. They also have one for big-blocks (~$60), but not for the slant six. It doesn't use a GM HEI module, but some other 4-pin module, perhaps for a Japanese engine. I have one but never installed. I might instead install an 8-pin GM HEI module under the cover. You also need an e-core coil. I bought one for $20. If you want to stay Mopar, take one from a Magnum V-8 engine (~1998-2002).

It uses a Bosch "BIM021/024" 4 pin found in Ford/Nissan/VW. Heavy thermal grease on the bottom bolted on a thick 3/8 AL sink. Must get pretty hot!
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i think the huge cap will fit tightly with a 2 speed wiper motor (had one on my yellow dart) but not a 3 speed wiper motor..
 
Before anyone spends money on a Skip White, understand the risks.
Carbon button in distributor cap broken off, melted

I have one sitting on the shelf and the button was gone completely.:D
I JB welded a brass button into the cap.
After that I set it up with a stock magnum coil and ended up finding that the way they mounted the hall affect pickup unit in the distributor was for big blocks so the rotor phasing was WAY off. ( an assembly confusion that didn’t get caught)
After after redrilling and mounting it in the right place it ran really well, but screw that POS.:D
The person I got it from couldn’t get it to run right but couldn’t figure out why.
 
When we had my kids SBC dirt motor built my son showed up to the engine shop with a TooCanChew GM style dizzy for the engine shop to install.

Gary, who owns the shop, told my kid he wouldn't allow that thing on his engine! Too many issues...loose bushings, misfires blamed on the engine builder etc.

We went with a stock GM HEI...
 
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