904 witchcraft

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Bobzilla said:
May have broken off the pump drive hub on the torque converter. If no fluid is pumping from cooler lines when running, your pump is likely not turning.
If this is the cause it was nothing you did wrong and was likely a stock or stock replacement converter. The hub is not very strong on the stock converters.
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Fairly certain its a replacment as its painted black..could be dacco

So if the pump drive ears sheared..wouldnt there be some squeak, squeal...something? Believe me i was listening intently on those first few starts after the swap...

Although something just occurred to me...that i neglected to mention...i actually completely forgot...lol..sorry yall.....part of this swap included a denso starter from a 95 dakota to clear the headers..(which btw has the terminals in the correct location for not arcing to the block). I wonder if the old pump couldnt take the impact from the new starter...but still..no noise.

If the pump is fragged...i see gear sets, complete pumps, hardened steel vs NOS,...my intention with this whole set up is a year or so of cruisin, smokey burnouts, and a few trips to the track (maybe 6 times for DOT night). All while i get to assembling my RB. So cheap..im broke..gotta ride it to work..no...strict drag duty gotta have the best...no. inexpensive but will take a few beatings and not leave my on the side of the road....yeah...thats what im looking for. I see pumps rebuilt from Cobra for 130...gear sets from A&A running from 29- 250 or more. Whats the bang for buck option?

Since im pulling the trans anyway..after many phone calls to converter builders..im adding a 9" 2500 converter....so the options should include that thought.
 
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I use my compression tester;keeping the head up.
You are looking for 5 to 30 psi at between the TC and the cooler, depending on rpm and gear position.
And up to 250psi at 1600 from the L/R servo at 1600, less at idle. They sometimes hit the pressure relief at 230ish. This would tell you that the pump is fine.
 
My screw-in gauge has a hose on it over a foot long. So it's no problem to hold the head up. I was not concerned about the gauge head, rather for what the oil might do to the hose. It turns out it survived, for lotsa more years.
This pressure test ain't about absolute accuracy, you just want to know that the pump is ok, and that the oil is moving thru the cooler. If it is, then we move to more accurate tests. If it isn't then the trans has to come down to see why.
 
So, what does your stick read NOW?? On BOTH SIDES. Did the level go up when you added some? Maybe your fluid is going into the radiator. BUT, just because you feel detents and park works; doesn't mean that the manual valve isn't stuck in the park position. Mechanically out of park but hydraulically STILL IN PARK. It could have popped out of it's slot, or broke off and is lying in the bottom of the pan.
 
CudaFactHackJob said:
So, what does your stick read NOW?? On BOTH SIDES. Did the level go up when you added some? Maybe your fluid is going into the radiator. BUT, just because you feel detents and park works; doesn't mean that the manual valve isn't stuck in the park position. Mechanically out of park but hydraulically STILL IN PARK. It could have popped out of it's slot, or broke off and is lying in the bottom of the pan.
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Both sides of the stick read about .50-.75 inch over the full hot mark...was barely a drop on the end when i started. It caught my eye to check it because i had to "adjust" the tube for clearance on the cylinder head...which caused a good bit of seepage from the tube oring.. i reworked the tube to stop the seeping but it was probably leaking for a couple days. No idea as to the amount leaked due to the big throw rug i had under the car...also due to the fact that i was replacing heads..the radiator was freshly topped with distilled water...im sure if the cooler was weeping into the radiator id see it floating on top by now. And since this was a drain/refill..ive been checking it everytime i go out to work on the car to ensure its all burped.

I wondered about exactly what you mentioned..if it could be hydraulically still in park..but able to release the parking pawl. Tranny internals and i are just getting acquainted...i have always had4 speeds on my toys.

So pressure test first.. then drop the pan and look for carnage. Sounds like a plan.

No love for the mini starter theory?

Thanks all...ill post results
 
Been working on them since 1980 and have never used a gauge..just a waste of time; never tells you what's wrong, just gives you something to think about. "Mental machinations"..It might feel a little "scratchy" as it goes in and out of Park; IF the arm popped out and is hitting the end of the valve. I wonder if you could see the valve move thru the neutral safety hole; if you used a mirror..
 
And you know what, if the trans is hydraulically stuck in park, then the converter isn't charging anyway, so the read is off. Better take out that neutral safety switch and look in there.
 
That doesn't matter; a separate part of the linkage. There's just a little arm that engages the manual valve. It doesn't do anything else. The rooster comb, park rod, and nss are on different sections of the lever.
 
Scott Warner said:
AJ...
The detents are firm and positive. Is there a possibility of a gummed-up or bent manual valve even though all detents are present?
Additional info...any position except park...the wheels rotate...park is still functioning and locks the wheels...and this is an oe valvebody...not even a shift kit...although i do have a new TF2 in a box on the shelf.
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Scott Warner said:
All i am trying to clarify is that it "seems" the detents are all there...and that engine off...rear end off the ground:
1. In park the wheels are locked
2. In R,N,D,2,1 the wheels can be manually moved by hand.
Just to say it doesnt seem like a linkage issue
Click to expand...

OP said
Any position except park...the wheels rotate
There are no hydraulics related to the parking pawl.
Since the NSS works, the roostercomb is connected to the shifter. If the park rod fell off, nothing would happen except the car would not move. But it would sure torque the engine over when applying gas-pedal.
And you sure could not rotate the driveshaft by hand

IDK what direction this is going, but ...... it looks like I'm as dumb as a sack of hammers. And if that is true, I shouldn't be here.
 
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