Green Axles.

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CRUZE 418

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I am changing out my 3:55 pos for a 3:23 open in my driver Dart. The 8 3/4 has Green Axle bearings. I have read up on this and am more confused now than I was then. This washer in the spider gear section they say has to come out or leave it in , it's a pin, I see no washer or washers.
So what's the deal?
 
There are thrust button in the center of the differential that is for the stock adjustment system. It should be removed for the Green Bearings unless your axles are designed to keep them in.
 
I am changing out my 3:55 pos for a 3:23 open in my driver Dart. The 8 3/4 has Green Axle bearings. I have read up on this and am more confused now than I was then. This washer in the spider gear section they say has to come out or leave it in , it's a pin, I see no washer or washers.
So what's the deal?

i've used cut down by moser C-Body axles, moser axles and dr.diff axles over the years with green bearings and have never had to remove that button. can't say about other axles.
 
There is no button in there that I can see, only the pin that the other spider pin goes through. So does this mean that someone has already removed this button? I have taken a magnet and moved the pin back and forth, only the pin there. So, I guess that I should be good to go.
 
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There is no button in there that I can see, only the pin that the other spider pin goes through. So does this mean that someone has already removed this button? I have taken a magnet and moved the pin back and forth, only the pin there. So, I guess that I should be good to go.

Looking at my service manual there is nothing on the open differentials.

This is what I'm talking about but that is for limited slip rears. Did you have these in your 3.55 assembly?

upload_2021-3-22_12-45-12.png
 
Okay . In the two pictures I have slid the pin from one side to the other. If this button was in there, that pin shouldn't move, right?

1616442088008301565426.jpg


16164423147601286479857.jpg
 
Okay . In the two pictures I have slid the pin from one side to the other. If this button was in there, that pin shouldn't move, right?

View attachment 1715712165

View attachment 1715712167
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No button to remove. You can grind the end of your axles to get the little bit of play you need.
In your carrier that centerpin is designed to wiggle back and forth. That's because with tapered axle bearings the axles are shifting a little bit from side-to-side going around corners and such.

But since you have green axle bearin your wiggle is very limited.
 
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Okay thankyou. Not doing the switch today, getting ready. Will try and feel this out when I do it. Kinda wish that they would have left well enough alone.
Thank you again.
 
Now that I need the picture Jadaharabi is correct. Did you run your axles with the 3.55's and was the thrust buttons there?
 
Post 8 the thrust block is all the way to the right.

In post 10 it is all the way to the left.

It is the horizontal shaft with the axel gears on it and an elongated slot with the spider gear shaft passing through it .

If you put one axle in brake backing plates and all. Then when you put the other axle and all in the other side you should be able to fully seat it without tightening any bolts. If not you could grind, the axel ends for clearance. Keep the heat low.
 
I did not install the rear axle assy. The 55's were in it. The car is going to be a stock driver, that's why I am changing it out to the 3:23 open. Wish that I had 2:76's, haven't seen any for the 8 3/4's. So I will see what it feels like when I install the axles.
Thanks again everyone.
 
I did not install the rear axle assy. The 55's were in it. The car is going to be a stock driver, that's why I am changing it out to the 3:23 open. Wish that I had 2:76's, haven't seen any for the 8 3/4's. So I will see what it feels like when I install the axles.
Thanks again everyone.
I have 2.76 open for 8.75. Good set ready to bolt in
 
If u use the green bearings that have the snap ring on the outside u do not need to remove the thrust block in the center of the differential. Kim
 
Okay, will look for the snap ring when I get it apart. My new car, the '72, had the conversion done not to long ago. Hopefully that is what is in there. 318willrun has reached out to me and I have a 276 ratio in the works. He lives close enough to drive for pick up. Keeping the 3:55's for a reserve.
Thank you Kim.
 
I am running in my Barracuda a 2:76 gear ratio, 8 3/4 axle and a freshly rebuilt 318. I love that combo, perfect for a street car, that can be used on highway and country trips - just like Plymouth designed it. I don't think you will regret that decision.

Cheers Wolfgang
 
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Okay, will look for the snap ring when I get it apart. My new car, the '72, had the conversion done not to long ago. Hopefully that is what is in there. 318willrun has reached out to me and I have a 276 ratio in the works. He lives close enough to drive for pick up. Keeping the 3:55's for a reserve.
Thank you Kim.
Your 72 has green bearings with snap rings. The current 3.55 has no thrust button in it. I took it out. The 3.23 I gave you will work with Green bearings. I had it in a car that had them. 3.23s will be great in that car. 2.76s in that car and 3.18 is a dog. That is what was in the 7 1/14 rear that I took out.
 
the new style green bearings do not need the button removed the old style does . i don't think you can even buy the old style now . this is all explained on dr diff site .
 
Ok why are you saying a open carrier has no thrust button? That piece that slides back and forth is the thrust button. Whst am i missing here?
 
Ok why are you saying a open carrier has no thrust button? That piece that slides back and forth is the thrust button. Whst am i missing here?
Yes that is the thrust block. With the bearings that that have the snap ring u do not have to remove it. It’s the same block as in the cone type suregrip. I have did 10 or so without a problem. Ask Cass if u don’t believe it. Kim
 
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