67/68/69 cuda dilemma

[moparmat2000]

Finally done with this one. Waiting for it to cool so I can hit it with a little primer.

 

[moparmat2000]

Had to cut the *** end off the floorpan to get it to fit inside a notchback body. The good part is that the seam will be on top of the transition pan overlap. AMD is better than nothing, but will require some massaging to fit tight. This is just a test fit anyways. I have some dimpling to do because of this OD trans, and am mocking up the linkages, console brackets and such. I will temp screw the tunnel down to the crossmember to get a better fit on the linkages. The vertical linkage hits the OD unit and I have an idea on how to mod it to work. When I do that, I will post pix.

 

[Beeker]

Hi y'all,

i know this is a lengthy post but here goes. I have recently bought a half stripped 69 barracuda notchback from Dartos up in Wichita Falls Tx on Fabo for some parts for my 67 cuda restification. i do have a Vin, and a bill of sale, and getting a title is no problem where i live, as i have done this countless times before.

my wife likes the fact that i love restoring old muscle cars. she calls me the ultimate recycler. anyway when we first met she didnt know what a barracuda was, or a road runner for that matter. she did know and like the 70 chevelle SS, and 69 camaro SS, but these are more well known. i told her when i am done with my 67 i would like to build up a nice car for her. i have been looking at 69 camaros, and 70/71 chevelles and since these are iconic in their own way they are pretty pricey even for a basket case, so i presented her with the idea of refurbishing the 69 cuda shell for her to drive once i am done with my 67.

Georga likes that idea, she likes the shape of the 67-69 notchback says it reminds her of a camaro in a way, plus i am only into a rolling shell minus interior, driveline, grilles, and fenders for only $300. its basically a clean slate, and can be built how she wants it to be. i told her we for drivability and cost we should probably install a 360 magnum and AOD from a wrecked late model dodge pickup, or ram van since i can get thes at my local police auction cheap and use a fast EFI on an edelbrock intake for drivability, mebbe use a ford 8.8 rear from a ranger pickup, since the bolt pattern is the same as a mopar, and the gears and a limited slip are easier to find, or use an 8.25 rear axle out of a chrysler fifth ave or jeep cherokee, and i have most of the pieces parts lying around to add stock power discs and power steering. aftermarket A/C with a Sanyo compressor will likely round it all out along with smoothing out the firewall.

so heres the dilemma. the 69 nose sheetmetal is missing and the tail lamps and housings are shot. the center trunk panel for the 69 is long gone. i will probably spring for a set of fiberglass fenders and upper header and lower valance from stinger fiberglass that solves this part of the dilemma. tho it would have been nicer to have the steel ones that were on the car, but this would have added to the price i payed for the car, so i really cant complain. i have a spare hood that is 67/68 vintage that came with the parts car minus its pot metal inserts. i can use this hood but will mean using a 67/68 header panel, and grilles. i also have a nice used set of 67 taillamps and housings, along with center tail panel trim, and a good used pair of 67 reverse lights and bezels. i have a set of bumpers that are straight but need rechroming, we may paint these body color. i have the trim pieces if she wants a vinyl top, and since the back window trim is already gone off the car, i can buy a new rear window gasket from steele rubber that has a black locking strip to go with a black vinyl top making the roofline a bit formal. plus i have a box of clip nuts and body bolts and hardware from the old 74 dart 4 door i stripped for parts on my project.

i like the idea of using the pieces we already have that are not going on my car, or are castoffs from my car but are in good condition for a driver. since this car is really nothing special like a big block car or formula S i dont think there is any point in trying to make it original. i figure we can keep the 69 side marker reflectors, use the 67 taillamps and trim, use a 67/68 hood, and since i have a spare set of grilles from a 67 we may be able to find another set of these to make a good set, or find a set of 68 grilles making the car a 67/68/69.

she wants to pick the body color, upholstery, i showed her speedhuts line of gages, and said we can make a custom sheetmetal panel, since all i have is an empty dash frame and she can design her own gages. i said we can look at rims, and steering wheels and floor shifters too. this was originally a console car, but the only thing left is the front bracket. Georga likes the idea of carpet and bucket seats and no console, so an aftermarket automatic floor shifter is in order. we will be looking at these as well.

this car was an ex race car, and has a spring relocation kit done to it, but has hacked in aluminum wheel tubs, and cut some sections of the trunk floor beyond where the stock inner fenders are supposed to be. those have to go. we may keep it narrowed in the back, but i will have to get some stock inner and outer wheel houses from an old duster as these are the same stampings as the cuda, and widen and install them. i will have to hang rear quarter skins on it as well. it already has sub frame connectors. these are 2x2 box steel, they look to be installed ok, i will look at them a bit more once the shell is on a rotisserie. this may be a few years as i got to finish my car first, but it allows us time to collect up parts for it.

i think we got a good plan for this car, tho when she saw the pix she was like OMG you spent $300 on that. my response was at first i laughed, and said it was much cheaper than $3000 on a basket case camaro or chevelle, and i have some of the pieces its missing, putting us ahead of the game, tho i am starting with something in worse shape than what i have seen some people on here part out.

below is the pix of our new addition. it looks rough from somebody sanding most of the paint offand it getting surface rust, but not bad once you DA it to bare metal, and primer it. also at this moment i am not looking to sell anything off it like the SBP rallyes, or manual steering box, when i start rebuilding it, i will reassess whats coming off, and probably list the parts here.

what do y'all think? should we keep the body as a 69 only and try to find those unique pieces to keep it looking as a 69, or use what we have to make the back as a 67, the sides as a 69, and the grilles as a 67 or 68 ?

Matt

 

[Beeker]

Do the multi year setup. It will be gorgeous and she’ll hav the only one xactly like that

 

[moparmat2000]

I have since gotten all the 69 specific body parts.

 

[Beeker]

[QUOTE="moparmat2000, post: 1973405337, member: 14566"specific body parts.[/QUOTE]

 

[4spdragtop]

Man that looks awesome Matt! Really coming together.

 

[moparmat2000]

Well the 42RH OD unit hits the shifter rod and pushes it outward at the bottom. I came up with a way to mod the shifter rod to clear the side of the transmission and still keep everything lined up. I made a temporary jig to hold everything in place until it could be welded. I actually tack welded the rod to the jig so I could cut it apart and nothing would move out of place. It worked very well IMHO.

 

[moparmat2000]

Well this part is done. Shifter works good. I have a few dimples I will have to hammer into the floorpan for the trans to fit better. The rod is about 1/16" away from the trans at the OD widest point. This is the best we're gonna get. It's close, but i really doubt it's going to hit.

 

[moparmat2000]

Heres the optional/not optional trans tunnel rework. It fits real good now. I have about 1/2" clearance on the top RH side, and almost 1" on the left side.

 

[moparmat2000]

Spent all day with this. Making a throttle cable bracket/kick down cable bracket. Thats ok, it's one more part of the trans mockup. Needed to make sure the carb had the same idle to WOT throw, and that I was getting the kickdown cable bracket in the right spot in regards to idle spot. Using a stock Dodge Dakota kickdown cable to make replacements easy to get. I also used a ram van transmission kickdown lever, and ram van cable support on the trans end. As this raises it up about an inch above the rear fluid port.

I'd rather get this stuff done now than later. Plus I can figure the cable routing. Operates nice and smooth from idle to WOT. Kick down operates nice and smooth as well. Very happy with the results. Time to sandblast and primer the bracket. Then put it away with the carb for safekeeping.

 

[moparmat2000]

The bolt on stud for hooking the cable up on the throttle is an edelbrock part number.

 

[moparmat2000]

I built this drivetrain dolly today. Started on it a number of years ago. Finally finished it up. Worked like a charm. I don't believe I will ever pull engines from the top anymore

 

[HMC710]

As always, great write up and inspiration to keep up!

 

[moparmat2000]

Last edition to the dolley. The probem I had with the car on the dolley. The K frame makes contact, but the trans needs a little help going up to loosen the bolts so it can be let down. I decided to use a junkyard sourced scissors jack. A little modding and welding. It's ready to go. Welded on a crappy 3/8" socket to attach a turning bar.

 

[moparmat2000]

Well I got tired of this half restored rallye wheel sitting in a plastic bag on my workbench. I finished sanding the rest of the epoxy filler, and applied epoxy primer. It's not perfect but will be getting a black leather wheelskins stitched cover over it. Once this white primer is dry, i am going to spray a light coat of semi flat black, and get to stitching. Last pic is a recap of what i started with

 

[mopowers]

Wow, that steering wheel looks great. That's a lot of tedious work right there.

 

[moparmat2000]

Wow, that steering wheel looks great. That's a lot of tedious work right there.

Thanks!! Its far from perfect, but that's what the leather cover is for.

 

[moparmat2000]

Final paint. I will stitch a cover over it as it's far from perfect close up, but waaay better than what I started with.

 

[4spdragtop]

Nice work Matt! Those spokes are/were in really nice shape!

Well I got tired of this half restored rallye wheel sitting in a plastic bag on my workbench. I finished sanding the rest of the epoxy filler, and applied epoxy primer. It's not perfect but will be getting a black leather wheelskins stitched cover over it. Once this white primer is dry, i am going to spray a light coat of semi flat black, and get to stitching. Last pic is a recap of what i started with

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[moparmat2000]

Thanks Steve, that's why I pulled the trigger on it. Think seller sold it to me for $150 because of the toasty rim.

 

[4spdragtop]

Not that I've restored one, but makes it easier when the metal finish is good to start with. Nice job!

Thanks Steve, that's why I pulled the trigger on it. Think seller sold it to me for $150 because of the toasty rim.

 

[moparmat2000]

Starting on the upgraded 2x3 subframe connectors. RH one roughed in. Made it easier to copy the LH one as a mirror opposite. That went a lot faster. I figure it's best to get these done before I put the floor down. I will have to cut slots in the rear foot well for em, but they will only protrude about 1/2". Nothing a little extra padding on either side of em wont fix.

 

[moparmat2000]

I am also mocking up the transmission cooler. Specced a Derale 17 row plate/fin cooler. Will have to plumb it in as a stand alone with a trans cooler thermostat since the 42RH uses 3/8" lines. Going to hit the wrecking yard for a set of 3/8" trans lines off a 1990-1992 V8 ram van . I scoped out the wrecking yard today and found 2 candidates I can pull em from. I used the dimensions at the Derale website to make a cardboard mockup to figure how I want to mount the cooler, and to be sure I have enough room to fit it since i havent ordered it yet. Also plan on using a 69 camaro Z/28 chin spoiler as others here have done. This will help air flow through the cooler and radiator.

 

[moparmat2000]

This is the route we are going on the 69. Heres 3 pix of my 67s subframe connectors at the front end prior to welding. Specifically the LH one. I have seen people route their parking brake cable through a subframe connector or over it post haste, and honestly that's the wrong way to do it.

For starters the connectors are welded to 1/8" thick transition plates which lap weld to the thinner crossmember. This gives torsional strength without eventual cracking. However note the "dog ear" reinforcement for the parking brake cable. This locates it alongside the framerail and inboard of the subframe connector for a straight run the the cable fairlead under the rear foot pan. I plan on using a second firewall grommet down there on the crossmember to seal water and dirt out at the front. I already made and sandblasted the plates for my sons car as well.