Need help ?

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So it just turns over? No snorting, no popping? Not even trying to start? Is it turning over quicker than normal, like if the plugs were out of it? Or does is sound different while turning over? Quick,slow, quick, slow? Noise through the carb or exhaust? Pull the breather cap and shine a flashlight onto the rocker. Are they rockers moving while turning it over? Do you have a remote starter switch? Take a REAL good look at your bulkhead connector.
 
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So it just turns over? No snorting, no popping? Not even trying to start? Is it turning over quicker than normal, like if the plugs were out of it? Or does is sound different while turning over? Quick,slow, quick, slow? Noise through the carb or exhaust? Pull the breather cap and shine a flashlight onto the rocker. Are they rockers moving while turning it over? Do you have a remote starter switch?
No different sounds , just as normal . I have a remote starter . Maybe you know an easy way to attach it . I was taught to attach it to the starter . I did jack up the front end but could not get to the post on the starter . I can get my finger on it , but not two fingers to squeeze the alligator clamp ??????????????
 
Ballast don't matter it just a resistor
They do get hot if your points are closed
Might be a bad coil making spark but not enough to fire a plug
 
No different sounds , just as normal . I have a remote starter . Maybe you know an easy way to attach it . I was taught to attach it to the starter . I did jack up the front end but could not get to the post on the starter . I can get my finger on it , but not two fingers to squeeze the alligator clamp ??????????????

Remote starter is easy on a mopar. Attach it to the relay mounted on the firewall. No need to crawl under the car.

relay.jpg
 
Starter relay ! Here is mine , a little different .

Which posts do I put the two jumper wires on ??????????

View attachment 1716385936

It's the same but they've got a piece of metal or something on top of the pic i posted. Batt and Sol. Touching those two terminals together sends 12v directly to the starter. Just make sure you have the key off or it will start the car (once you get the problem figured out).
 
vac gage ,5in cranking vacuum ...
plugs are dry...think you said
 
With the key on , the ballast resistor is so hot I cannot hold onto it . I am not an electrical guy !!!!!!!!! When standing in front of the car & looking at the ballast , which side is ignition and which is the coil side ? The wires go together in a wrap & I cannot see where they go to ?????????? Where do I connect the 2nd wire of the volt meter
The ballast being hot is EXACTLY what it's there to do.


It is possible for the connectors to have been switched side to side at some point so go by the colors


The Blue (with the brown) on the right goes to the coil


The Blue (with Blue with White stripe) on the left goes to the ignition.


You measure from a good ground (bare bolt, negative battery terminal) to the right terminal, then from ground to the left terminal
.

PXL_20250331_024816660.jpg


Just for a note:
Blue on the coil + comes from the Blue (with Brown) on the right side of the ballast.
PXL_20250331_024947415.jpg



You really need to get a wiring diagram, this one from classiccarwiring.com is so easy to follow
But the FSM (mymopar.com) has one too.

PXL_20250331_025156751.jpg
 
Maybe you know an easy way to attach it . I was taught to attach it to the starter . I did jack up the front end but could not get to the post on the starter . I can get my finger on it , but not two fingers to squeeze the alligator clamp
Remote starter switches are typically low current switches. On our cars one clip goes to battery +
The other goes to the terminal on the starter relay that the yellow wire attaches to. (Remove the yellow wire first)
 
Going waaaay past the basic checks here. You had a car that was running, changed some parts & now it does not run. Read post #23.
 
You had a car that was running, changed some parts & now it does not run. Read post #23
OP had a car that was running, then it wasn't.

THEN he changed a bunch of parts.

And it still doesn't run.

What the OP needs to do is start at the beginning and verify all the separate systems are functioning properly.

Unfortunately he has too many people sending him in too many directions at the same time.
 
Like @CFD244 suggested, possibly the chain jumped? Ive had the exact same thing happen more than once over the years, pulled my hair out trying to figure out what was wrong, then ripped the front end off and found a sloppy chain that had jumped. Even happened to a PT Cruiser that I used to own.
@Dana67Dart is correct, OP needs to verify that the parts that he put on are working correctly then take it from there.
He has fuel and spark, Id be checking out timing next.
 
I do not know ? I assumed it meant firing ?
You don't know? Did you read the directions? Here we are two pages and three days in. Have you brought the engine up to TDC and VERIFIED the rotor is pointing to the #1 plug wire on the distributor cap? Have you VERIFIED the distributor is turning when the engine is turned over? YOU need to ANSWER some questions and PROVIDE some information if you want help.
 
You don't know? Did you read the directions? Here we are two pages and three days in. Have you brought the engine up to TDC and VERIFIED the rotor is pointing to the #1 plug wire on the distributor cap? Have you VERIFIED the distributor is turning when the engine is turned over? YOU need to ANSWER some questions and PROVIDE some information if you want help.
Yes , the rotor points to the #1 cylinder when the timing mark is top dead center . Here are the directions on the ignition tester . Yes , the rotor is turning when cranking the starter .

DSCN7437.JPG
 
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is it the orginal wire loom and mostly original connectors? (if all new ignore my post)

Has the weather been cold and damp or humid and rainy? or rain then hot then cold overnight.
did the car ever live near the beach?
weather that makes corrosion in connectors damp then dry then damp again will spoil old car fun eventually.

i ask because my own car lived by the beach in Australia and then was moved to London UK which does have its fair share of the above mentioned weather

on moving from HOT beach atmosphere to damp london I had 2 years of similar behaviour.. what worked today, didn't work tomorrow but might work again next month....

this is my list of corroded green connectors all of which looked great until you pulled them apart, all of which have worked again perfectly well for the last 20 years once cleaned and smeared with a thin layer of vaseline


1) connection of the ignition switch, 4 wires (went on fire.....)
2) the connectors that attach each end of the fusible link ( i had aftermarket rubbish with 1/4 inch spade connectors)
3) all of the connectors in the 2 bulkhead connectors that my car has. The plastic plugs acted like a bath of condensation. they sit there in the engine heat and cool off in the sub zero garage and over the years condensation driven corrosion builds up)
4) the clips for the fuses, green patches, the metal caps on the ends of the fuses rusty patches, the connectors onto the back of the fuse box green white black dust.
5) earth strap between engine and chassis looked like it had spent time on the Titanic, both ends.
6) the aftermarket "clamp on to wire" positive side battery clamp... these are rubbish get a properly crimped and/or soldered one (acidic battery breath will kill a clamp on one)

each one of these problems discovered as and when something randomly failed for no obvious reason over a period of 18 months... i had a small fire in the connector for the ignition switch and my fuse box melted at the fuse for the heater fan.

i got damn good at hot wiring my car and purchased a C02 based fire extinguisher to compliment my foam one...

it's salty "sea air" lifestyle for the first part of its life and then the wildly variable stinking hot and humid to ,solid ice for days in winter, London home, played havoc with connectors that were hidden away in loom wrap or modular plastic plugs

once I'd cleaned the lot, everything worked better, and i still have some of the parts I took off by way of diagnosis, that ultimately had nothing but age and patination wrong with them.

Perfect voltage measured BUT a lack of current in its veins were the problem. most of the current was just heating up the green corrosion in the connections rather than being put to good use..

The starter did its job throughout but often didn't start the car...

1) you are not alone in your problem :)
2) all of the advice in posts above is good and potentially provides a fix ......BUT>>>>>
3) if all else fails, a day with an old toothbrush, some vinegar or some liquid brass polish and a tub of vaseline may pay dividends.

Make sure you wash the contact cleaning "products" off before you vaseline it up for the next 20 years....

my thinking is, you didn't change anything nothing failed when under stress
something failed while you were away......

and the only thing that happens to your car while you are away is damage caused by oxygen moisture UV light and temperature changes

OR ...if very unlucky.... some other human being...causes a problem.

Dave
 
remove the number one spark plug. Put it somewhere that you can see the plug gap and make sure the plug is grounded. Crank the engine over and make sure you visually see a good spark there. You can replace all the parts you want but the plug gap is where the spark has to be to ignite the fuel.
 
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Plug tester should have been fine for that if it lights should be plenty to fire
Cranking vacuum at least 5 " cranking
Pull some more plugs are they wet ?
What are you doing to verify fuel
Can you see fuel going in the carb when pumping the throttle ?
Spay carb cleaner down the carb ?
Is the fuel any good?
 
Yes , the rotor points to the #1 cylinder when the timing mark is top dead center . Here are the directions on the ignition tester . Yes , the rotor is turning when cranking the starter .
I’m sure someone will correct me if I’m wrong, but this pretty much indicates that he’s got spark and the timing hasn’t jumped. I think one of the above posts about using starting fluid is a good idea and cheap and easy. If that makes it start, then it’s fuel, if not then I’m stumped. Wouldn’t something electrical (like neutral safety switch) disable fire to the cylinders? Hopefully this was suggested a long time ago, but is the accelerator pump discharging fuel when the throttle is actuated?
 
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