Converter stuck in cranksaft!

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Well, I'm doing a little dremel work on the crank. I'll let you know how that works.
I've also noticed that the hole in the crank goes in 3/4" and the knob on the converter goes out 3/4" so even if I do get this to work the two parts may still be butted up against one another when tightened.

All the tranny fluid in the converter is now gone onto the floor as well. Should I put more fluid in the converter, or when (or if) i get this together will it just be fine to add the fluid normally?
 
myasylum said:
Well, I'm doing a little dremel work on the crank. I'll let you know how that works.
I've also noticed that the hole in the crank goes in 3/4" and the knob on the converter goes out 3/4" so even if I do get this to work the two parts may still be butted up against one another when tightened.

All the tranny fluid in the converter is now gone onto the floor as well. Should I put more fluid in the converter, or when (or if) i get this together will it just be fine to add the fluid normally?
Click to expand...

Just my opinion but..... If the crank is ok and the converter is the problem then if you change converters (commonly done for peformance reasons) then
all other converters will be sloppy. I would still opt to work the converter instead but it's your parts, hope it works for ya. Kev
 
Can you confirm the year of the crankshaft at least?
Then if it's post 68 grind the convertor not the crank, like mentioned by kander.

Vise versa, as in pre 68= grind crank
 
BTW if you are going to use a dremel in an ID use the little rubber drum with the sanding hoops instead of a stone, less chance of making divots. Kev
 
1wild&crazyguy said:
Can you confirm the year of the crankshaft at least?
Then if it's post 68 grind the convertor not the crank, like mentioned by kander.

Vise versa, as in pre 68= grind crank
Click to expand...

Wild&crazy, do you know the size difference btween the pre and post 68 crank bores? Kev
 
Well, I just used the sand paper type thing on the dremel. I went around on the inside of the hole for maybe 30 seconds. Then I used real fine grit sand paper to make it smooth (just in case) I slid the converter on without the tranny, and it seemed to slide in nicely. I just hope I'm not screwing something up by doing it this way! I don't think 30 seconds with a dremel tool would hurt too much?????

Do I need to put tranny fluid back in the converter before I try this again?

Oh, and since it is a Eagle crank, I'm not sure if "pre 68" would matter in this case? maybe if it was a stock crank?
 
30 seconds sounds like you didn't take out too much. So long as there is some ATF in the converter to keep things lubed till the pump fills it you'll be OK. BTW a little light grease on the stub won't hurt either, Good luck! Kev
 
myasylum said:
Do I need to put tranny fluid back in the converter before I try this again?
Click to expand...

I always do then lay down some old towels and do a quick flip so none spills out. Make sure that you get the converter seated. You will hear a hollow "clunk" sound when it is.
 
What kind of grease? All I really have right now is Vaseline (don't ask lol!)

I kind of don't want to use any lube because I want to make sue the clearance is there and it's not just moving because of the lubrication, you know? Or will that not matter?
 
How are you guys installing your converters anyway? I found the best way is to stand the tranny upright. It makes for a BIG mess though. When I try to slide the tranny on laying flat I seem to have a hard time getting it seated.
Once you get it on the first "row" do you just have to keep turning it till it fall into place, or do you have to keep removing it and trying to set it in place?
 
yes...stand the trans on its end....use gravity to help..

as far as the fluid in converter...you dont need to have it full...just some so it is not dry...

just make sure trans is in neutral went you start engine...
 
What is "some" though? I think it's mostly drained by now. Or with the coating that is in there be good enough?
 
the converter just needs some so it is not dry...

you know if your car sets for a few days the converter drains back into the pan anyway...
 
What kind of fluid should I use. The thing is, I don't know what they had in it to begin with?? Like I say, they are closed for the weekend to so I can't ask them.

I did go to a auto store and they recommended ATF Dex/Merc.
I won't be starting it for a few days (assuming I fix this problem!) anyway.

It's a 1972 904 Transmission.
 
For all those paying attention, My dremel tool idea seemed to work.
I attached the tranny and the converter spun freely without any effort at all. The converter popped straight forward with ease. I then found the offset hole and tightened with lock tight.

When it works the way it's suppose to, it's actually pretty easy. I wish I wouldn't have dumped tranny fluid all over my garage either, and had to have reseated the torque converter three times! :angry4:

So rather then saying the "dremel tool idea" lets just go with "deburing the pilot hole" :) It sounds better. I just hope I didn't wreck anything, but I don't know what harm could come of 30 seconds of a dremel tool?? I guess time will tell! :cheers:

Thanks guys, I love you all!!! (In a heterosexual kind of way)

Don't worry, I'm sure I'll be back soon! :p
 
Good Job and don't worry about damage from the Dremel tool, You'd have to go at it for a lot longer the 30 seconds to do any damge.

Terry
 
Just a thought you are getting the converter all the way on the input shaft on the trans. that has been known to mess some people up.
 
kanders said:
Just my opinion but..... If the crank is ok and the converter is the problem then if you change converters (commonly done for peformance reasons) then
all other converters will be sloppy. I would still opt to work the converter instead but it's your parts, hope it works for ya. Kev
Click to expand...
I had posted to your other thread about measure the hub of the convertor and the hub of the crankshaft, post# 26. he's right on about work on the convertor hub only,and yes the convertor should move freely in and out of the crank but it is a michined fit as this is the support for the front of the convertor.to clean up the convertor hub I would use a file and old fashioned hand labor,egg shaped hub will destroy something
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Location: florida
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you have it on correctly,it will not mount flush if it is backwards and the bolts wont all line up if it's backwards. before you install the trans hold the flexplate up to the convertor and paint one bolt hole and a spot on the convertor to ease finding the right spot.and dont tighten any of the convertor bolts untill all of them are in,the flexplate to the crank bolts are as said 55 lbs torque and the flexplate to convertor bolts are less( I think around 25 lbs torque but I do not have a manual to look in so you should find out)......definately take the flexplate loose from the engine and make sure it bolts to the convertor as there are two diffrent size flexplates and also measure the hub of the convetor and the hub of the crank to make sure they will mate up.
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NOTE: if you query stuck converters this combo is troublesome...

a SCAT S-48005BI forged 4340 crankshaft is 1.813" I.D. at the back and a Dynamic 9.5 torque converter has a nub that is 1.811" O.D.
 
Bonjour mon vilebrequin 273 1965 a un trou sur le vilebrequin de 1.765 a + ou - .02 et mon gars convertisseur doit concevoir mon nez de convertisseur de 1.81 à 1.765 (-.050)pour qu'il rentre dans mon vilebrequin, merci dgé.
Hello my crankshaft 273 1965 has a hole on the crankshaft of 1.765 a + or - .02 and my converter guy has to engineer my converter nose from 1.81 to 1.765 (-.050) so that it fits into my crank shaft, thanks dg
 
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