Recent content by 72Dinger

Parked in a pasture and the floors are gone...typical for round here. Looks like lots of parts at the least. Thanks for sharing.

The good news is that fractions keep millennials from building your house...:p...the bad news is that in a few years you'll only be able to find uno, dos, tres tape measures.

Could be aftermarket accessory or used as a ground for the alt.

I agree with this premise. My previous point about effectiveness below 40F is based on my preference for low SEER units. My experience is that more expensive high efficiency units necessitate more expensive repairs, wiping out the energy savings in the long run. I'm in a much milder climate...

Conventional air to air heat pump is not effective below about 40F but works efficiently in the range 40-70F. It is just an air conditioning system that also works in reverse. I would say its worth considering, but strongly suggest you have LP or natural gas as an auxiliary heat source. Heat...

Your best bet is let the tech look at it before you go any further. The component you see through the top of the outdoor unit is the reversing valve. It is a slide valve and can get stuck in one position or the other. In some cases it can be tapped lightly to pop loose, but let the "pro" do...

If your tstat has an emergency heat or aux heat setting you can flip to it. That will engage the electric heat strips directly. You won't have to freeze, but it might lighten your wallet if you have to rely on it for a few days. If the tstat is set up correctly, in normal heating mode, after a...

Could be a number of things or a combination of things. You already can tell the service technician more than most homeowners. Just as a dummy check, make sure you have a clean filter at the air handler. Refrigerant pressures are a function of airflow across the coils, ambient temps, condition...

Brand new account, only post about EVs, on a forum for cantankerous old gearheads...Jennifer Granholm, is that you?

VDO has an extensive catalog but their website is hard to navigate. I had a gauge but no sending unit. I reached out to them for guidance and they got back to me quickly with an appropriate match.

5.5mm is one helluva particular ignition wrench The German stuff I'm sure is good quality, they have good steel. The older japanese stuff is so-so, but I'm not above using it. I think "Sears" branded stuff was mostly Japanese. Nice haul. None of my wrenches match either...

I gotcha...you're talking LS stuff. Thats a little itty bitty thing. Working up some new bracketry would be a project for sure.

Chrysler used the later pump up into the 80s on LA motors. I don't know about your part of the world but in the States you can score everything you need off trucks + vans at the junkyard. Mine came off an '85 Fifth Avenue. And GM used the same pump at least into the late 70s.

I have the contour. Its a solid, heavy tool and I expect I could get through many projects with it. I don't believe that it works any better than other abrasive methods in removing paint, but it does well in not heating the sheet metal up. Its a little cumbersome in tight spots and you will...

Look into Slip-plate. You can get it in a spray can. Its a farm implement graphite lubricant. The jeep & 4x4 guys use it, i guess they find it repels mud and holds up to heat.