Recent content by AJ/FormS

That doesn't automatically mean that the timing is across-the-board right If it doesn't detonate at WOT, well, you got that going for ya...........

All my m/t 69 and 70 A-body cars had the small retainer. I bought my first one in fall of 1970 with just 11,000 miles on her. The Second in 1983, and I was third owner. I parted out a 70 Duster, and it also had the small retainer. I still had this close ratio trans up until year 2001 or so...

Well , What I know is this; in my limited experience; for the short-tail A-body transmissions; The 1x23 boxes mostly use the 307 front bearings, and so, they get the 4.35 retainers. But the BBs got the 4.80 retainers, and I assume, 308 bearings, but I don't know that. AFAIK, >all small block...

On my 360 I have an ancient Holley 750DP. It was old already in the mid 70s when I got it used. Yes the throttle shafts are pretty sloppy loose, so what; I'm not trying to idle it down to 500 rpm. My guess , from your description, is that you got too much idle-timing, and your Mixture screws...

903s were born "sloppy" shifting. Even a fresh rebuilt one . I mean have you seen the internal design? If it ain't grinding gears, the trans is fine. Maybe some of your sloppiness is in the shifter. Before I would buy another 903, I would change to a full-synchro A230, and a Hurst floor-shifter.

Like I said, mine runs on 87E10 and has since 1999. The question is, why put a new roof on a building with a crumbling foundation? OP already has alloy heads; but his pressure is just 145psi, indicating either 1) that his pistons are way down in the holes, or 2) that his stockish cam, ain't so...

What's wrong with your A903? Those things are super simple. Back in the 70s I rebuilt hundreds of those, with not even one comeback in over 5 years.

To really make those heads work, you gotta get that dismal 140psi up to at least 185, and 195 makes a killer street machine. Ask me how I know. Until you fix the pressure issue, I wouldn't waste my time with anything else...... unless you have an auto-trans, then I'd order a performance...

At 7.8 Scr, and say an ICA of 64 degrees, You might expect cranking cylinder pressure of 115psi @900ft elevation. You might expect the bottom end to feel only a lil stronger than a slanty. The only way past this is; with a moderate stall converter and Hi-perf rear gears, and Forget about...

If you have done any repairs looking for the problem, don't forget that the mufflers and exhaust system, will be full of condensed oil, and as soon as the pipes get some heat in them, that oil will begin to smoke. There's no telling how long it will take to burn off.

You also need to get on the same page, in terms of terminology. Once again; Your engine has FOUR timing requirements. Idle timing; sometimes called; static/base Power-Timing: sometimes called "all-in", or mechanical /centrifical/centrifugal Part-Throttle Timing, Cruise-Timing. All of these are...

Yes you can; Disconnect the VA from the carb, then Tee a vacuum gauge on the VA, and a long hose that reaches out to the radiator. With your timing light installed, engine idling; just suck on the VA until the timing changes. Then suck harder and read the timing again; and repeat until more...

Dwell time, read on the meter, is NOT doubled. The only thing that gets doubled is the distributor rpm, to get crank rpm. "All-in"/Power-Timing, is measured with your timing light directly. For all the SB Mopes I have ever worked on, the "all-in" Power-Timing, should happen in the window of 3000...

As for the coil; I have had excellent results with the big yellow square-top Accell Supercoil. Easily goes to 7200 on the Street, idles all day, and mine is about 25 years old now. I run mine off the battery, thru a relay, that is turned on by the ignition switch; so the power is not going...

If the engine already runs, and none of the wires are too short, then what more do you want, just drive it.