Recent content by Badvert65

The timing covers will physically fit between all the different years and sizes of the slant sixes. The thing to watch out for is the timing tab. It is in different places for different years, some are welded on to the cover, some bolt on.

The bolts are 3/8-16.

OK, I finally found the pics I had of the Magnum hose on a slant six.

I actually have a pic of that hose on a slant, but I am having trouble locating it. I have a 2007 Magnum and happened to notice that it might work on a slant with a radiator outled on the driver side. You may need to use a tie wrap or two just to keep clearance for the belts.

The lower radiator hose for a 2007 Dodge Magnum 5.7 L looks like it would work well for something like this. I have some pictures somewhere. I'll post when I find them.

Thanks for the kind words, my wife and I have been battling some health issues, but things are looking up. I ran out of the oil pump gaskets but I am having more made and should be back in stock soon. Now, back to the regularly scheduled post.

I am pretty sure it is the same as the big block Mopar engines. I don't recall whether the small blocks used a washer as they have that fuel pump eccentric bolted to the front of the cam (and wouldn't really need a washer.

Personally, I would notch the fan blades for clearance. It would be fairly easy and have a negligible effect on the air flow.

Here are some pics of the tube/pan junction. The tab on this particular tube was bolted to the engine mount.

FYI, the trucks have a dipstick tube that goes into the oil pan itself. The good news is that after unbolting the tube supports, the tube will pull right out of the pan. You will not need to remove the oil pan. If I recall, there is a tab bolted to the motor mount that secures the tube in place.

Here are the numbers in case you dint wanna watch the video. N/A: 230 peak HP and 287 FP torque 6(?) pounds boost: 325 HP and 400 FP torque 11 pounds boost: 402 HP and 517 FP torque

It is much easier with the hood out of the way. I have pulled many engines by myself. Keep the link between the hoist and the engine as short as practical. Start lifting. If the hood gets in the way, that's when you remove the front bolt from each side of the hood (where it bolts to the...

I have had success by removing only the front hinge/hood bolt on each side. This allows the hood to "open" further while leaving it 'mostly' in place. This may help: 225 Engine Specs WIDTH Outside Valve Cover to Prod. Exhaust Manifolds 17.3" LENGTH Bellhousing Face to: Front of Block 27.7"...

IIRK, early Dakotas used 8 1/4 rears, and they are fairly plentiful in salvage yards.

FYI, that is a 3/4-16 bolt roughly 2 1/4 inch in length. Takes a 1 1/4 inch socket.