remember if your using slicks and a sizeable tire in the rear the extra brake pressure is probably ideal for the rear, if it stock size tires on all 4 then youll prolly lock the rears up on a harsh stop.
most you can do is grab the input shaft and turn it and then the output, see if they atleast turn, then go from there, and or learn how to rebuild it, its actually easier than an engine rebuild, use manuals for referance, take pics and vids as you disassemble.
add some welding to the exsisiting overlapped metal that is spot welded, and maybe make some big gussets to enforce that center crossmember that the torsion bar ties into
Milodon 31470 oil pan. 9qt. was mocked up on my B1 motor and drilled for oil return line from heads . they can be easily plugged with -8 cap and flared fitting . comes with windage trey to clear 4.5 stroke . 330.00 buyer pays shipping from 78415 . also will work a trade for 8 3/4 center section...
can this be swapped for a 741 cased rear? im about to buy a duster with a 741 case 8 3/4 rearend and was wondering if a 489 or 742 center section can be simply swapped? ill eventually need axles to do away with the 4in pattern.
put a methanol 750 carb on it, dont let anybody tell you that your compression is too low either for it, if your using a stock intake be sure the heat crossovers are blocked till you get a good intake yo put on it, lock the dist. @ 38-40btdc, later on put a small solid cam and springs in it. btw...
mine has been a long work in progress and has added up over the years, just a quik guess of about 20-25000 in buying stuff, from cage, body parts and engine.
2560 with me in it, 73 dart, 572 b1 all aluminum, 727, dana60, glass doors and hood and bumpers, moly cage all the way back and back halved, all factory reinforced metal removed, Bobs Profab front end, i weigh 175lb.
ever start and watch an engine idle after fueling with 100ll that has had some pump gas in it ? once the avgas gets into the system an engine will just suddenly smooth out.