Recent content by Creedmoor

For anyone looking at shipping, here’s the info you’ll need: 55-1/2” long 21” wide 3” thick 27 pounds

Brand new in box, never installed. Hardware still unopened. Hellwig bolt on front sway bar. Model 5906. From Summit or JEGs, or any retailer, these are right at $500. Will sell for $300. Shipping would be problematic. Prefer local pick up. Located about 20 miles south of Yakima, WA.

I believe this is all for a ‘66 and earlier A body car. Single pot master cylinder that looks like it was never used, completely clean inside. A line with what I’m told has a distribution block, a proportioning valve and a residual valve attached. $20 plus the ride. Located in south central...

Came out of a ‘68 Barracuda drum /drum car. Worked as designed when removed. Went to discs on the front. Located in south central WA state, about 20 miles south of Yakima. $20 plus the ride.

New from early 2000’s. Drum/drum master cylinder from NAPA (remanufactured). Complete with rubber boot, brake rod retainer rubber thingy and bleeding plugs and instructions. $30 plus the ride. Located in south central WA state, about 20 miles south of Yakima.

These parts came off my drum/drum ‘68 Barracuda which was converted to front discs. 10” brakes, shoes measure 2.25” wide. Spindles, hubs, bearings and backing plates are all in great shape. Drums should be turned, wheel cylinders were working fine and not leaking. They’re marked as made in USA...

‘68 Barracuda. Converting to front discs. Hard to find a good picture of the line/bracket for the fluid supply to the caliper (service manual calls it a “jumper tube”). This is the left side caliper with the line and bracket mounted the only way that makes sense to me. Wanted to make sure...

I need to replace a short section of the rear brake line. But first I need to remove the factory spring armor so I can cut the line and have room for the flare nut. Any tips for doing this? A pair of dikes or flush cuts and carefully try to snip one coil without damaging the line? This...

Thanks! Dadsbee didn’t bother to really read my OP or he would have noticed I already pulled the original MC and bought a new one. His post wasn’t really helpful. Only his opinion - which I respect. Everyone has one. If I’m sure my drill and tap will be accurate, I may just do that! Thanks.

Oops, sorry guys, violated first rule of help requests! ‘68 Barracuda. I’ll edit my OP. There was no spring but there was a dust boot. I had a brand new in box early 90’s NAPA remanufactured drum/drum master identical to the one I just pulled that came with a new boot AND the little rod...

‘68 Barracuda. Pulled the factory drum/drum MC to replace it with a new drum/disc unit for my front disc conversion. The forum recommends the Raybestos MC36406 as this a non power assist swap and this MC has the desired 15/16” bore. (This thing is huge compared to the original!) However, the...

Gotcha. I was told the violent hammer way was less prone to damage the rubber boot. I’m not replacing the upper bj since it’s in good shape, so that’s important, but so’s my dick. I do have a bj tool, so I guess I’ll use it on both bjs. Never messed with the torsion bars. Hope the adjusters...

Yep, have all new US made parts for this swap. New lower ball joints are Rare Parts brand-made in the late 90’s. So, T bars backed off, upper bj separated before lower bj - or does the order matter? Hoping to do the “smack the upper with a hammer” separation maneuver. Will that work with no...

Need to remove drum spindle so I can install a disc spindle. 1968 Barracuda. OEM drums all the way around. Car is up on stands. Rubber brake hose removed from metal line. Is this the correct order? 1. Separate tie-rod 2. Separate upper ball joint 3.Separate lower ball joint Do I need a jack...

Thanks guys. I’ve got a 20 ton HF press. So press it is.