Recent content by CrusherCuda

I've been trying to search the 67 pan swap, but haven't found a detailed thread. I wish I could cut the floor out of the 72 Polara the engine and trans came from, but the car was hit hard and I believe its long gone. But yes, mating a different floor to the firewall was my biggest fear.

I'm getting back to the Cuda project and need to find a solution for full floor pan replacement in my 66. I will be running a 360/727. I may have enough original floor sections to mostly piece together a "stock" floor. But will a 67 A body floor weld in? Will a B body or C body or E body floor...

Finally made it into the barn!

Maybe in the next year or two I can make it... This is a bucket list event for me and one of the reasons for my build. Only been to the track once in 2008. That is a nice facility. Nice little town too.

Coolest old tire I ever saw was an old drag tire on a 66 Mustang fastback sitting in an old barn. The tread was little checkered flags. Really unique. Too bad some of these odd ball tires aren't re-popped. Coker and such do good, but their are some pretty trick old tires that will never be again.

Of course, I could settle for 14x7s in the rear and 14x5s in the front. I have had better luck sourcing that size from Fords. And I have tires that fit 14s already. Mustangs used a wide variety of 14 inch rims from 1964 to 1973 with the 5x4.5 bolt pattern. I will have to get out the tape measure...

My plan was to run 15x7s in the rear and 15x6 or narrower in the front with factory steel wheels to stay within budget and keep the junkyard build going. The thought would be to have the widest rear tire without tubbing the wheel wells and a skinny tire in the front to save weight. If I could...

So, I might need to measure what I have. I have 4 wheels and tires from a 72 Polara. I would need to dismount one to measure. I may be looking for a 7 inch wide rim for the rear then if the Polara rims are narrow. Assume nothing and question everything right?

I am looking for two 15 inch rims between 5 and 6 inches wide with a 5 x 4.5 lug pattern. I feel like these should exist, but having a hard time finding what they came on, be it an A, B, C, or E body rim. I have a feeling it would be an early B or C body rim, but not sure. I know a yard with...

And you should be able to see the spot welds on the flange rear of the quarter under the bumper. Never use filler here. It can hold moisture and cause premature rot and rust. Only Corvettes and kit cars lack spot welds on their flanges. Bondo used improperly hides bad metal work.

A quick thought. If he didn't have the bumper to fit the panel, he may have welded the patch panel in to far forward and tried to make the difference up with filler after he realized his mistake. He should have asked for the bumper anyway to check his own work. Hopefully he did not scew up the...

I am not a professional body guy by any means, but I did work at a body shop for 3 years after high school, and I repair my own hobby cars. There is no reason on this earth to have filler in that spot. Filler can be used to sharpen a body line, but only in small thin amounts. The area of concern...

Oh, OK. Then cut away. I was thinking you had 10 grand into a paint job and you were trying to save it. This just got a whole lot less scary. Yea, just take her down to metal in that spot and fit the bumper. See where she needs a nip tuck, and fixed. Just some time and a welder should do it. I...

Well, if the bumper is straight, then your only option is to grind off the paint and replace or reshape that area of the quarter. Maybe there is just some filler there. Hard to really tell until you get in there and poke around. As long as your guy can blend well, you shouldn't have to repaint...

Instead of grinding the bumper or reshaping the panel, could you just tweak the bumper a little? Is the bumper straight? I know on my cars, we have had to bend and tweak bumpers, fenders, doors, and so on to get the gaps right. We have even sent a straight bumper out for chrome and got it back...