Recent content by cudascott

Try this one https://www.musclecarparts.cc/shop/item.aspx/1968-1971-mopar-a-b-e-body-with-2-lamp-system-headlamp-adjustment-set/7004/?gad_source=1

Here’s the hardware you need to mount the buckets https://www.musclecarparts.cc/shop/item.aspx/1968-1971-dodge-and-plymouth-b-body-4-headlight-adjuster-spring-kit/8069/?gad_source=1 oh wait a sec them are for 4 headlamp systems

I’ve had this one for about 5 years so far it’s been good. https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/80077/10002/-1

alright someone photoshop this I have to see it now:lol:

I’m a 30 year electrician if that makes a hill of beans. But I would clean the remaining tabs and make up new ones made exactly like the originals and solder them on top. I would not recommend you to drill the rivets because you will lose the clamping force on the connection.

I would have told him yes the instant he said $400

Check the hose at the tank for leaks as stated above if that don’t cure it your probably gonna need to check the sending unit pickup tube if it’s the original. There’s a chance there could be a pin hole rusted in it an easy way to check that is filler up and see if the air disappears.

Yep as stated above 67’ only tail lamps.

If your only doing an intake get some gasket remover some brands of it still have the good stuff in them. https://www.appliedthermalfluids.com/product/loctite-sf-790-gasket-remover-known-as-loctite-chisel-paint-strippe-79040/

I have no experience with this but have watched a few videos seems like it will work https://coopersstripclub.com/metal-lpp1/

Nope only a heat crossover and that gap around the port goes nowhere

10.72 @ 123.867

second pic is 72 first pic looks like a 72 as well but can see it to good

I use a single hole paper punch

Reuse your original sliders the new ones are know to cause the tight fit that some have an issue with