Recent content by dibbons

Update: Polished the factory tach (obviously, I didn't overdue it). The little round medallion in the center remained discolored. I see one would have to un-crimp the case in order to replace the rear face behind the needle (I don't have a replacement for now).

Upate: Underdash courtesy lamp bracket/lens. I have one bracket already cleaned up but it's missing the round plastic dome lens. I have this other one with the lens intact and thinking about trying to clean it up prior to install.

I just pulled out the factory tach to clean it up and adapt the solid circuit update board. I noticed the terminal on the back (on the right in the photo) does not have an insulator type washer on it like the terminal on the left has. Does that mean it is missing the washer or was it never...

I thought about rattles too, but being the fact my "rebuilt" factory speaker is not tested or installed yet, I decided to wait. I still have a factory AM radio I pulled out of my '65 Valiant bracket racer back in the 1970's (which appears to have the '64 style push buttons) that I might install...

Update: Just a baby step today. Installed the repro (part #DV3) defroster vents. The metal speed nuts supplied use a 1/2" socket. The nuts didn't seem to want to spin onto the plastic posts very easily, so I did not spin them all the way down. Regardless, I don't expect the vents to jump out...

Update: Peak quarter panel moulding. I salvaged all but five of the factory clips and decided to install the mouldings using my own innovation thinking (AKA: estilo mexicano). The cost of shipping is at or near the price of parts these days so just going to "wing it" for now. For the missing...

Re: '65 Formula S, I was trying to figure out if the one fastener that is not one of the other 9 clips that is rather a stud and nut would be attached from the factory on the rear near the tail light or up front by the door? So I looked at my '65 Valiant Signet convertible which has a similar...

Update: Clean-up on quarter panel stainless molding underside (the upside that shows when installed looked in very good condition). Beginning condition underside (photo one); after spray down underside with Prep Sol which is a wax/grease remover (photo two) ; after Naval Jelly application (did...

Correct, I already took that side off the Kmember and it fell out without even using a hammer. In fact, that's my own photo in post #22. I am asking about the opposite end where it is connected to the center link. Thank you.

Tha't's what I was thinking, but do you mean this works on both ends of the idler? Thank you.

Update: Neither my local bolt/nut fastener specialty store sells castle nuts and neither does local Auto Zone. In fact, I see the Centrix brand of idler arm (sold by Rock Auto) does not even use castle nuts and cotter pins anymore (according to the photo), just a "locking nut" alone. No thanks...

In the first post he stated the factory frame rails were replaced, so he was at a loss as to location.

No I have not bought the clips from Layson. The photo on his website look like the factory style clips to me.

Update: Began cleaning up the clips that hold the chrome moldings for the top of the quarter panels (soak in vinegar and then Evaporust). A few actually have remnants of their original green paint/coating. The rest are rusted to various degrees. Need 9 that snap on for each side (the two with...

The dogs came out of nowhere at night and were already on top of my dog growling and biting in the span of about five seconds so no time to bribe them with treats. This neighborhood seems to be the area where unwanted pets are dumped off. Constantly raiding the garbage cans out front and one by...