To update this thread, I was able to grind enough material from the front of the torsion bar to allow enough clearance to install the clip. The bar was still slightly longer than the left-hand torsion bar, so I more or less split the difference. Still don't understand how it installed...
Is the driver side bar 0.200 longer than the passenger side bar or is the bar 0.200 longer than the specified length of 35.8 inches for A-body torsion bars?
The left-hand bar being similar to my right-hand bar gives me a little more confidence in my plan to make my right-hand bar the same length...
The socket is clean of grease. Just the surface film from applying it to the torsion bar. I've made sure the pivot and the bushing are fully pressed into the socket as well. I thought they might not be fully installed, but they will not budge and I believe they are fully seated.
I appreciate all...
Yeah, I thought about the K-member as well. But, the hardware that secure the K-member to the frame are tapered near the head of the bolt to locate the member in the correct position. I tried loosening the hardware and pulling it forward, but it didn't move.
Thanks for the replies. My torsion bars have the numbers cast into the ends in addition to the letters L and R; 890 for the right and 891 for the left. I also installed the bars so the same casting numbers were to the rear. You can see in the picture in addition to the P/N, the letters BAX are...
I'm currently in the process of assembling the front suspension of my '73 Duster. I'm installing the factory torsion bars and am having an issue installing the passenger side bar. The bar will not install far enough past the groove to install the retaining snap ring. The driver side installs...
Like you guys did, I'll hold off on the control head until the last resort. I thought about the shims in the clutch. I'll have to check how much gap I have between the clutch and the pulley. It seems that it does everything right up to engaging the clutch. Cooling fan comes on and RPM increase...
I don't have a scan tool, but I think the computer is recognizing the request. Right before the system goes into error mode (A/C light flashing) the system kicks the high speed radiator fan on for a second. When the system goes into error mode, the fan shuts down and the system shuts down.
Compressor spins free and there is no abnormal noise when the clutch is engaged and disengaged. Is there something that is in the control system that could be affected by the heat?
My A/C clutch does not engage when the temperature is above 95 degrees outside. When the temperature is below 95 degrees, the A/C works great. When the clutch does not engage the A/C light on the fan speed switch blinks indicating there is something wrong in the system. I have checked the freon...
Won't need the pivots. I purchased some other lower control arm bushings and they were the correct dimension. Thanks for the offers, and thanks clhyer for measuring the pivots. I appreciate it.
Aaron