Recent content by HotRod777

So what’s the preferred way to get the core plug in the counter shaft hole on the 833OD? I have the seal kit from Brewers and that plug is pretty thick and convex… it currently fits into the hole with no interference. I assume it’s meant to be “flattened” into place snug but it seems like...

So I think I’m going to pull it apart to put in the new reverse shaft O-ring. I’d hate myself if I do the whole job and that 1 O-ring leaks. I‘ve done 2 other 833’s before successfully. I have 2 questions though… Being the input shaft comes out forward with the OD’s big front retainer does...

3 pictures as it rotates. The white grease goo is everywhere.

I’ll get a better picture and post it…

So I just picked up an A body overdrive. It was crazy cheap from a guy who was clearing out a basement full of parts that have been sitting for at least 15 years. (Possibly an older family members prior stash) It’s 26 output spline, A tail-housing, it has a shifter mounting plate on it, has a...

Just wondering if anyone has 1st hand experience with my question. I have a 1966 Dart that I am planning to install a set of duel Accurate LTD tailpipes on. Specifically the 2.25" with turn-downs (the ones that are 2.25 the whole way) I know that I should order the 1967 specific RH side...

I usually don’t chime in on these debates and I don’t claim to be anything more then a shade-tree DIY’er. I haven’t seen anyone use this analogy (that I described below) to explain why reversing the pistons could add ‘something’ to the motor. This analogy is exaggerated, but it makes it easier...

66 Dart. Currently I have a slant with a later model over-drive bell housing (5.125 register) and 833 that is running/ driving fine. I’m considering eventually swapping in a small-block. I have 2 specific questions: 1) If I use the later model small block over-drive bell (casting # 3743859)...

Sorry for being so late to the party in this thread, the fall was very busy for me and I was rarely logged in. The blue Dart and video are mine. I was/am very disappointed in that “Whiplash” cam. I called their tech line and asked about it... saying I just wanted to maybe sound like it’s a 273...

Thank you for the excellent, detailed response. Overall I’m happy enough with the results. On a positive note the car did not lose any drivability and with the 3.55’s and 833 it’s a very fun car to zip around in. I’m sure most of us have chosen “too much cam” at some point in the past...

Correct, it’s was 105° dot to dot. That is why I then moved the crank keyway to +2° and buttoned it up... so it’s installed at 103° And yes, I was also expecting more lump.

Here is the result. It degreed in at 105° dot to dot. Their sheet said if it’s an option to prefer 1° more advance then 1° less... so I used the 2° advance key way and closed it up. It’s stock bore and I used an NOS .020 steel shim on assembly. I did the exhaust manifold mod and die-ground...

Thanks for all the replies. I guess, to me, with the above being true they “should” have the cam card say: Lobe separation 109° Installs at 104° In my opinion that would be clearer... Thanks again.

I’ll pre-game my question by saying yes, I know how to and that I should degree all camshafts. I also have the tools required to do that. I’m just looking for an explanation as to how Hughes specs their cams and how they write their cam cards. I contacted their tech line and was giving a...