Recent content by Machineman63

GOOD STUFF.

"Aluminum" gets a bad rap. nothing wrong with aluminum rockers if they are quality pieces. 7075 T6 grade would be the premium pieces I have run both needle bearing and bushed with success on other applications, the needle bearing units MUST be on a matching hardened shaft to work and last properly.

Always confirm TDC mark using the bump stop method. same as degreeing a cam.

A while back while wandering the pits before an IHRA pro stock event early in the AM i had the opportunity to speak with Tony Jones who was the carb guy for the Goforth team. I asked him about his split dominators sitting on the plywood spacers. he told me it was the best insulator he had...

Man thats a nice power curve.

Thats a good idea! the price is 50 cheaper through them as well

Getting started on my Scamp, I'm going to do a full floor pan. who has the best price , and are there any prefered ABO vendors with a discount?

MY.02: Stock rods with new bolts. if you can get a light weight aftermarket piston and then balance the assembly (this is the money you would have spent on aftermarket rods) you are way ahead. the lighter piston takes a huge amount of load off the rod, Plus Mopar rods were very good pieces.

I got a "free" Motorhome with a premium package 413 ( industrial top end ) gave it to a friend who was doing vintage stock car stuff. he switched the top dress over to regular automotive and it is a sweet running big block . FWIW it weighrd in at a tick over 1k lbs with the industrial parts on it!

Not to de rail a thread , but the size of the displacement would help negate the negitive effect of that cam.

If you do your math correctly with master cyl displacement and pedal ratio , manual brakes will stop it fine. There are several on line calculators to help. 180 MPH road coarse cars do not use power assist.

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Get a real temp reading.. And I'll be that guy , please be careful, we had an upper rad hose blow off an overheated car my dad and I worked on ( without a proper temp gauge) and it cooked him from the waist up like a lobster.

Ive had good luck with Cronatron NI rod for cast repair, it doesn't weld great out of position but that's not an issue in this case. or braze it , easy peasy either way , not the end of the world.

Tom, are these available as a replacement rod for the stack 440 LY rod? (Chry rod journal)