Recent content by mattmatthew

1971 slant six block, a-904 trans. i rebuilt the head a couple years ago -- installed new valves; lapped the valves; set the valve lash while motor running per service manual; installed new pushrods; disassembled, cleaned and reassembled the rocker assembly; new distributor cap and rotor. 7.25...

currently running a carter 2 bbl setup on a 1971 slant six and 904 trans setup in my 65 valiant. i've noticed that acceleration is always a bit slow (granted, it's better with the 2 bbl setup vs the stock 1 bbl), especially when accelerating from a stop or traveling on a slight incline. i'm...

Some weird numbers today. Granted it wasn't after the haul home but after I had stopped and grabbed dinner. 12.37v at rest 12.86v at high idle (it wouldn't go any higher than this) 10.89v ungrounded at high idle 2.2mv grounded at high idle do you think the numbers are this way because i let...

No, thank you! And all I had to do was hook up that wire lol... ugh Well no celebration yet. Time will tell, I'll be watching this like a hawk over the next week or so.

Wasn't able to get any readings on the way to work, so I took them after I made the drive home: Power off: 12.5v High idle: 13.9v Ungrounded tab on high idle (green): 1.3v Grounded tab on high idle (blue): 2.3mv numbers seem better after a real drive, rather than just running the car for 15...

After full charge: 12.8v After sitting before install: 12.5v After fast idle: 14.3v Ungrounded tab at normal idle: 10.5v Grounded tab at normal idle: 2.2mV Ran the car for about 15 min in total. The auto store claims the battery is still good. Had it checked a couple days ago. Unfortunately...

Grounded the 2nd field tab to the alternator case as suggested. Starting with 12.15v on the battery with power off, At fast idle, voltage read 12.95v. Put my voltmeter to the green field tab at normal idle, i'm getting 10.25v, which seems high... Since there's two field tabs maybe i have...

so if i change the regulator, i shoudn't ground the 2nd field tab? just leave it without a connection? or did you mean: if the regulator is bad, keeping the 2nd field tab grounded will drain the battery; if it's good, then keeping the 2nd tab grounded is ok

This is the style I'm currently using... Voltage Regulator: Ballast Resistor: I know I haven't changed either of these, so that means I'm sending the 2nd field tab to ground, correct? Can I ground it to the block?

Hi, I've had to charge my battery twice in about 3 weeks. At full charge it's about 12.42v, and at idle it seems to be dropping to 12.10. It's been a day since I charged it and already the current voltage is 12.10, 12.00 or less at idle. When I increase the throttle, voltage increases, but...

it's a 1965 plymouth valiant, 225. and i believe it's a pump manufactured by carter for napa. model M60577. label says made in the USA, but these days that usually means assembled by some dude in the USA with parts made in China and god knows where else.

also i took off the cap and blew into the line. sure enough, the fuel blew right past the fuel pump and back down the line. it wasn't even super hard to blow either.

i asked my friend this same question, but wondering if it would be prudent to add check valves into the line itself? that way if the valves fail on the pump, i'll at least have a backup (you know the quality of auto parts these days). say, one before the pump, one after. or is that overkill?

oh yeah, i did remove the gas cap. same result. a little slower, but it still sucked the gas right out of the bottle. what's the theory behind that?

actually i'm wondering if there might be multiple issues. clog at the sock in the tank as well as a bad check valve.