Unless you have some kind of baffle structure in the tank, get used to keeping the tank above half full or the engine will stall when the pickup is uncovered when you go around corners.
I've got the Walbro 255 externally mounted under the passenger seat right now, with a cobbled up factory...
Honestly, my spark table looks kinda like the one in the OP. Past about 2000rpm, it's really hard to get the engine to spend much time between 90kpa and 50kpa, so I sort of get the top two rows tuned for WOT, and never really got around to modding the middle of the map. This might be why the...
Some people call it a "spark hook test". It's a series of runs (with cool down in between), where the advance is started low, and increased a couple of degrees each successive pull. On most engines with decent chamber design & quench, power will stop increasing at some point, slowly decrease...
The whole point that everyone is missing is that X pipes drop ~3dB. X-pipes make more power because you can use a free-er flowing muffler that would otherwise be twice as loud. Also the formulas for best H vs X pipe placement are different. Once the ideal collector length is established, the...
Don't know specifically what numbers should be in there, but some things to keep in mind:
1. Modern engines with great squish and multiport EFI (especially dual plug!) have very efficient and fast burning heads. Mid 20's can be A LOT of timing, especially around peak TQ.
2. As you turn up...
Start by sawing it lengthwise as far down as you can go.
Bust off half with a chisel.
This one's almost off. The other side is next.
Take the blade out of the saw frame, and cut parallel trenches in the fitting. Pay close attention so you don't cut into the manifold threads - you...
Thanks folks. I talked to Paul from TCS, and got the low down. There are two widths of front drums and their associated bushings. All billet drums made are 72+ late type, because that's what essentially everyone is using or have upgraded to.
I just need to find a 72+ stator tube (what bolts...
I had to drill mine out until I could finally rip the threaded shell out with an EZ Out. I tried using a socket extension, and that basically reamed the plug into a nice round hole.......
So I bought the hot-****, half-a-mortgage-payment, billet front drum from TCS. http://www.tcsproducts.com/products/product/tf727-steel-front-drum-aluminum-piston/
Now my transmission won't go back together cause the pump body is bottoming out on the drum, even without any thrust washers at...
Yep it's like the converter is locked 100% of the time.
The day I got it all installed and plumbed, I fired it up. At idle, and the foot on the brake, I ran it through the PRNDL, to fill all the circuits, and it worked fine. Only problem was a drip at the fitting between a braided cooler...
I wish I never saw a Kiesler 4L65. I am thinking seriously about pulling it, smashing it to little pieces with a sledgehammer, and putting a 727 back in. I have about $8000 into the whole Kiesler project, and nothing to show for it.
From the start it's been an adventure in bad info, delays...