Recent content by ronald55555

Started reassembling the front suspension over the holiday. Hopefully I can get the car back on the ground soon.

Nice work with yours! According to solidworks, it's 0.65lbs. Material is 17-4 stainless. Since I plan on running autox and road courses using slicks, I designed them for infinite life. I was quite conservative on the marin factors and endurance limit calculations, so it is probably bigger and...

Havent had time to work on the car for a while, but I did get the strut rods finished. Also machined some new solid tie rods, and got them anodized black.

What position is the eccentric bolt/bushing adjusted at on the upper control arms? Have you already rotated them all the way inwards?

Get a set of stiffer torsion bars, then set them at the same ride height. Shouldn't be relying on the compression dampening to resist bottoming out. A cheaper but more ghetto solution is to have higher bump stops. So it bottoms out on the bumps stop before the headers hit the ground. That will...

Did you test it with the cluster screwed into the dash or grounded in some other way? The metal casing of the cluster needs to be grounded for the lights to work. If you are in fact ground the casing, then the bulbs either arent getting power or arent getting ground, so check both. Turn on your...

Design of the strut rod on lca side. The clevis is made from 1.5" 304SS, rod is 7/8 17-4SS. The K-member side would be similar to the Hotchkis kit except without the hooky washer/spacer setup.

Yes of course the bushings are getting replaced, I just put a big chunk of rubber in there to mask the bores during bead blasting. I'm from Vancouver. In the middle of machining up some custom strut rod pieces today.

cleaned, blasted, reinforced

Striped down the front suspension

Some progress on the interior

Have you tried putting a multimeter at various points in the system to trace back to the source of the fluctuation?

Soldered up some of the pins on the gauge cluster and added some ground wires for the lights today. Also found out from my co worker who is more familiar with mopars that the alternator gauge is actually an ammeter, needless to say I will be bypassing it when I put the gauge back in.

These are the wheels I want, but it will be a long time from now, they are $2000+ a set. http://www.rayswheels.co.jp/2009/products/wheel.php?type=spec&code=VOLKQ_TE37V

Side note, that is a wicked burnt orange on your dart.