Recent content by transman

For some reason or an other, by message box is full, and I'm having a problem deleting them. Send me an email.. gshortre@telus.net

Send me a message, I have some information that will be a big help to you.

Find a GOOD performance rebuilder, and there are a number of good ones that have been mentioned. They probably have a website, and usually have a spec sheet that asks a lot of questions. Questions to some that seen silly, but they need to be answered honestly. With that information, the...

At one time, he set a NHRA record in Comp. Eliminator. Around 6.9 @ 201 or so. Jerry Hass Car, with a 500" Steve Schmidt pro-stock engine. I guess in reality, a pro-stock car with an automatic transmission. I should be so lucky as to have something like that, but it was fun working for an...

Company test mule. Had a 904 (with GM BOLT Pattern). Can't say for sure, but I don't recall issues with the converter hubs. Mind you, as the test mule, there is the possibility that the impeller for the converter might have been made in the CNC shop????

Ford Style hub that they've used for years, and probably ford pump gear set. Did you ever ask the converter builder why the hubs were cracking?

I hope that someone didn't try and pawn that off as a performance converter. There sure isn't a lot of furnace brazing on the impeller vanes, and zero tig welding on top of those vanes. Same with the turbine, nothing added to make things stronger.

That converter is somebodies very poor attempt at trying to rebuild a converter. Notice that crappy welding of the butterfly weight was not put on by the factory or any reputable converter ship from what I'm looking at. And they way the hub was welded in is really, really bad, Ray Charles could...

Smart move. The converter hub needs to be as smooth as a crank journal. Babbitt bushings are typical of what builders use, but I also know some that prefer the bronze bushing. Most if not all transmission, Chrysler, Ford, GM and a lot of others from the factory use babbitt bushings. And it's...

Here's a photo that shows what your "hardly used" converter could possibly look like inside. As you can see, a lot of damage on the major components that aren't really repairable. Until the converter is cut open, there is no way to know it's internal condition is, unless you've got x-ray...

On a bad guess, a thrust washer. The converter needs to be taken apart and find out what else may be wrong inside. If you bought this used, it's shows why used converters are only good for two things, a door stop or a core.

And those old converter flushers weren't all that good. Flushing with cold solvent only gets some of the junk out.

Ask about the Transgo SKTF shift kit improver kit. I had one installed in the 727 in my Challenger, by a very good builder. Under normal throttle, just a little firmer/crisper 1-2 shift, and the 2-3 shift was also improved. The Challenger had a 360 in it, and was used mostly for cruising...

I'm not a builder, but maybe Rusty or one of the other builders on this board can give you that kind of information.

Your 67 converter probably will have the 1.550" pilot, and may have 18 splines for the input shaft. Any transmission from 1968 and on will have a 27 spline input shaft. Lockups from 1978-up have a 26 spline input shaft. Post#6 shows the difference between a lockup and non lockup input shaft...