Wheel stud problem. Im a dumbass!!

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4spdragtop

4spdragtop

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I swapped out the drivers side LH thread studs for new wheel studs, but when I put the new ones in, I ended up stripping the splines on the stud and the axle flange. I shoulda stopped after the 1st one, but no like a dumbass I did it to the 2nd one as well. I have spare studs, that is no problem, just wondering what the fix could be? I could have it tacked at the back, but I have no welder and my diff is all put back together with brakes and everything on it. Go figure the last thing to do was sink the studs in and I bugger it up. Would JB weld work if I put some on the splines of the stud and in the axle flange hole??
 
You are not the only one. I did this years ago when I changed out the studs on my cuda. As long as there is still some slight grip to the splines, Permatex red thread lock should work OK. That is what I used on mine and they held well. Just don't let a monkey with an air impact near them.
 
If they are not secure you may not be able to get your wheel off later. I was in the trap you are in with my car dolly. Luckily I could pull off the hub with the wheel attached. We welded the back of the studs so I could get the wheel off. If that were the case on your rear end it may cost you a wheel before it is over.
 
toplscuda said:
. Just don't let a monkey with an air impact near them.
Click to expand...


Thanks toplscuda...too late for the monkey part!! That would be me...the dumbass monkey!! Although it was on a low setting, but I think it looks like a weld job! Dang!!

Thanks Olka, yeah i want to fix it now before I put the diff back in the car.

Do you think JB weld will hold it....or am I going to have to tack it on the back?? Man I am pissed at myself, I shoulda known better!!
 
I am a great fan of JB Weld but I wouldn't trust it in this situtation. If it fails and you have to remove a wheel you will be in big time T-R-O-U-B-L-E!!
 
Mike the splines and go to napa and grab some new studs about .010 larger on the spline and draw them up in the axle. Do it right.
 
I know it a pain to pull axles, but if you are going to tack weld the stud(s), bolt a wheel to it first. If you don't, the odds are you'll have a crooked stud(s) and will have a hell of a time depending on which wheels you're running. It's a definite problem with mags.
 
Im gonna try napa for some bigger splined studs, but if that doesnt work, I was going to leave axles in and tack them?? There looks like more than enough room to be able to get at most of the stud. I knew I shoulda bought a friggin' welder!!
 
I cant imagine welding out on the perimiter of the flange would have any effect on the axle. I dont know another way to fix it other than welding either.
There were studs with oversize splines available for that application years ago. Finding them now might not be easy. Good luck
 
this will not be a per application fix. You will have to look thru the stud book. I have done it. They are listed by spline, shoulder length, thread and thread length. this is how I found my 3 inch studs for open end lugs to run slicks.
 
Every race car I build the axle studs are tacked welded never had a problem I race outlaw figure 8 for 23 years.
 
Thanks guys, so I went to NAPA and got 2 studs. Mine miked out at .470, the ones I got are .4775. Because my studs are 7/16", the next size up is 1/2" so the splines would be bigger than 1/2". That means drilling all 5 holes out. So I am hoping to be able to stick with 7/16". My plan is to clean the holes, loctite the new studs and pull them in. See how they feel from there, if she is sloppy seconds, then I will tack them in from the back side.
When I was putting the studs in, I did them by hand, but with the diff on the work table I couldnt pull them in all the way without the arse end moving. So I thought I would use an impact(see title where it says dumbass!!). I had the impact turned down, but the nut tightens on the stud before it pulls it all the way in. Of course didnt stop after the 1st one, I had to do it one more time(upgraded from a mistake to a dumbass!!) Then I wisened up a bit and put a big lock washer on it to take up the slack. You can still drive around with 3 studs cant ya?? LOL. I aint touching it tonight, it can wait, Lori just got back home after being away for 4 days so gotta get my priorities straight!!
Okla, the part # from NAPA is 641-1615.
 
4spdragtop said:
Thanks guys, so I went to NAPA and got 2 studs. Mine miked out at .470, the ones I got are .4775. Because my studs are 7/16", the next size up is 1/2" so the splines would be bigger than 1/2". That means drilling all 5 holes out. So I am hoping to be able to stick with 7/16". My plan is to clean the holes, loctite the new studs and pull them in. See how they feel from there, if she is sloppy seconds, then I will tack them in from the back side.
When I was putting the studs in, I did them by hand, but with the diff on the work table I couldnt pull them in all the way without the arse end moving. So I thought I would use an impact(see title where it says dumbass!!). I had the impact turned down, but the nut tightens on the stud before it pulls it all the way in. Of course didnt stop after the 1st one, I had to do it one more time(upgraded from a mistake to a dumbass!!) Then I wisened up a bit and put a big lock washer on it to take up the slack. You can still drive around with 3 studs cant ya?? LOL. I aint touching it tonight, it can wait, Lori just got back home after being away for 4 days so gotta get my priorities straight!!
Okla, the part # from NAPA is 641-1615.
Click to expand...

Cool, thanks for the part number. Note to self 641-1615. Crap I inverted the 4 and the 1 the first time I typed it.
 
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